leak down tester

[Blackout]

I'm currently using Amsoil full synthetic 20-50 for metrics, what if I were to switch to conventional oil, could that help? I've only had the bike for a year and a half, but have always had this issue.

Have you always run Full synthetic oil in this bike?

Did it originally come with full synthetic?


Not all oil is suitable for motorcycle that share crank case oil with wet clutch systems
Stay away from oils that have friction inhibitors

Also for testing purposes just change the oil I wouldn't change the oil filter

When I bought the bike I put synthetic in it, and haven't used anything else. And based on limited conversations I had with the previous owner before I bought it I highly doubt he used synthetic.

[Lechy]

The pic is the plug cap resistor. fit a set of DP8's. If the plug is covered in a black sheen it will be caused by a lean mix. Pull the needle out of the carb, if it has small grooves for the clip try fitting the clip one groove lower, also remove the small spacer.

[emoji41]

[Blackout]

Not all oil is suitable for motorcycle that share crank case oil with wet clutch systems
Stay away from oils that have friction inhibitors

I understand, Amsoil specifically recommends this oil for the Intruder.

[FallenAngel]

When I bought the bike I put synthetic in it, and haven't used anything else. And based on limited conversations I had with the previous owner before I bought it I highly doubt he used synthetic.

Try a conventional Motorcycle oil
If your getting small amounts off oil It should burn off where Synthetic dosnt burn off and may be the cause of the fowling plugs

[Blackout]

When I bought the bike I put synthetic in it, and haven't used anything else. And based on limited conversations I had with the previous owner before I bought it I highly doubt he used synthetic.

Try a conventional Motorcycle oil
If your getting small amounts off oil It should burn off where Synthetic dosnt burn off and may be the cause of the fowling plugs

[emoji106] Roger that

[FallenAngel]

Tell ya what Ill reimburse you the cost of the oil if it keeps fowling the plugs in three days of riding

Deal???

[Herb]

I would have expected the metals in the engine to expand because of the heat, causing tolerances to become tighter and increase compression, but you're saying that's not true?

Suzuki says compression should be 142-199, which puts mine in the lower 20th percentile. Maybe it being lower isn't as big of an issue than if it were way off from one to the other?

You reply said 15psi, but if you re-read my previous post you'll see it's only 5psi difference, and when I redid the test tonight they were almost exactly the same at about 150. Throttle was wide open too, btw.


How do I go about checking the breather? Is that something that's connected to both cylinder heads?

First, if you happen to find a motor with near perfect compression, it's most likely brand new.

Second, metal expanding would create a better compression test result, but not much. I've always done mine dead cold. You should never screw anything into the head while hot.

You could have a sticky lifter, hindering your results, by not pumping up all the way. Again, if the compression is perfect,it's most likely brand new.

Last, I'm not sure where the breather routes to. I never owned a 1400. I suspect one of the intakes. This is where the other site came in handy. Everyone took pics of everything. But, if your breather is blocked, the crankcase won't vent properly and the built up pressure could cause blow by.

One other thing, just opening the throttle an the handlebar doesn't open the slides. I discovered that pulling the air filter neck off and holding the slide open, at the same time I held the throttle open on the handlebar gave me 15-20 lbs more compression. 150 with the throttle closed, which it is with slides closed, is pretty dam good.