Eating Recifiers

[Forge]

A few months ago, I lost the rectifier on my ‘05 S83. I followed the testing procedures and many of the leads were showing open instead of the 1-10 or 1-20 ohms I should be reading. I found a “new old stock” and in the box oem Suzuki rectifier on ebay and installed it.
It failed again. I checked my alternator and I’m reading 90+ volts on the yellow leads coming from the alternator at high rpms. I don’t have a reliable tachometer, so I had my son rev the engine while I tested the leads.
Any idea why I could be losing these? They aren’t cheap. Is there a reliable aftermarket rectifier? Any ideas? Could not enough air flow during syncing fry one?

[Herb]

I would check the regulator ground and the battery leads for bad connections. I have never had to replace the regulator but have had to replace stators.

I had a regulator that had low output but the ground wire on it had a bad connection. Fixed it and it worked fine.

Keep in mind that the reading the manual has is with the Suzuki tester and they can vary with other meters. This is especially true if you are using a digital meter because the Suzuki meter is analog.

Did you check the resistance of the replacement regulator before installation as a comparison?

[hillsy]

You want to get a series RR like the SH775 or Polaris ones. Suzuki stock RR's are shunt style and have been known to fail.

[rocksandhammers]

Last summer I killed to reg/recs on my 800 because of a shitty ignition switch. The contacts on the ignition switch were just barely unaligned: just touching enough for the circuit to be completed but it wasn't a stable connection and fried the reg/rec. Took me a solid month of chasing that one down and I thought it was my stator but after several afternoons of staring at the wiring diagram and testing different connections before noticing the switch was fucked. Like Herb said, check your grounds and go through all the wires leading to/from the reg/rec and see if anything reads funny.