Bike doesn't start - multimeter show a going down Volts pressing the run button.

[Juan71]

Hi folks,
how in the title i get a problem running my bike.
while pressing the run button the multimeter show a deep going down of the Volts in the battery, the lights of oil and neutral fade away. and so the bike doesn't run.
after, making no action, and waiting a little bit, i can see in the multimeter the battery going up, but trying to run the bike make the same result (doesn't start) and the battery Volts going down.
At pushing the run button, I can hear, for one second, the sound of the activation of the starter motor.

any kind of opinions will be appreciated.
thank you in advance.

[hillsy]

Your battery is probably stuffed.

[WintrSol]

What does the meter read before you press the button?

[Herb]

3 things can cause this, bad connection at the battery, the battery needs charging, or the battery is bad.
It should show over 12.5 VDC before using the start button, over 11.5 VDC when cranking.

[Juan71]

3 things can cause this, bad connection at the battery, the battery needs charging, or the battery is bad.
It should show over 12.5 VDC before using the start button, over 11.5 VDC when cranking.

The meter show a full charged battery such as 13.45.
when i use the start button there is a Black out and going down to 3 or 4... then if i leave it quite, going up to 12.5.
the rare thing is that when i try to recharge the battery with my recharger it takes only 1 minute to recharge from 12.5 to 13.45.
It seems to be a bad battery but recently it was changed all the wiring harness By arranging other suzuki 95 vs1400 model cabling, By an electrician (what i bought get different cdi connections).
Last Year i changed the rectifier, the stator and the coils, so this shouldn't be the problem.
My doubt is if it's a battery problem or a cable problem (that have caused the battery failure)... and how i can check it to solve the problem.
I have noticed that if I turn the key to start (without starting) the meter show me that the battery Volts going down, slowly, until reaching 12.5.
I picked up the bike a fwew days ago from the mechanic's garage and get only one ride of about 100 km with a stop in the middle and all get well.
after 3 or 4 hours i try to start the bike and this is what happened.
Thanks to all for replying so quickly.
Gianni

[Juan71]

I have made a video of what going on when try to start the bike.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/tUS5guPL43fVJTwn9

[hillsy]

Looks like your battery has dropped a cell and won't function with any load. Try connecting to your car with jumper leads and see if it starts.

[navigator]

Have the battery Load tested,
Sand your battery and frame connections of the cables down to bare metal.
Put starwashers on your battery connections.

[Juan71]

Looks like your battery has dropped a cell and won't function with any load. Try connecting to your car with jumper leads and see if it starts.

Thanks hillsy,
The bike starts with the cable connected to the car.
I asume that the battery it's gone, but now the problem is to check if it wasn' t generate By the wiring harness change.

[navigator]

You will need the stator wires in your new harness.
A few to the CDI and 3 yellow wires to the regulator/rectifier.
Wiring diagram is in the service manual pinned at the top of the page.

[hillsy]

OK - next thing to do is check the bike is charging. Get a voltmeter or multimeter and check for DC voltage at the battery terminals when the bike is running. You should see (at least) something above 12.8V at idle and it should go up to around 13.5 to 14.5 at revs. If it doesn't change you should then check all your wiring and grounds.

[Juan71]

OK - next thing to do is check the bike is charging. Get a voltmeter or multimeter and check for DC voltage at the battery terminals when the bike is running. You should see (at least) something above 12.8V at idle and it should go up to around 13.5 to 14.5 at revs. If it doesn't change you should then check all your wiring and grounds.

Do you thinks that with the battery in this conditions the multimeter will show me the right recharging voltage?

'Cause if i connect the cables to the car battery the bike starts and the multimeter show me 14.2 at hidle and at revs (going down).... but if i turn off the cables from the car, the things going as showed in this video (seems to be a bad regulator) .

https://photos.app.goo.gl/7wxKFsUGgEisaSY77

I'm thinking that is the regulator by it's a new one (1 and 1/2 years)!!!
... the same for coils and the stator!

I'm going crazy with this.

[navigator]

You won't know until you have the battery LOAD tested.

[Juan71]

You won't know until you have the battery LOAD tested.

How can i test the battery load?
I get the Sowell sw1080 recharger but i think that with this is not possible to test it (it's a basic recharger).
One question: but if the battery load test it's bad I assume that i have to change the battery, but how can i be sure that this wasn't generate by other kind of problem?
To check the regulator i have to put on a new battery or there is another kind of test that can i do to check it?

[Juan71]

You won't know until you have the battery LOAD tested.

How can i test the battery load?
I get the Sowell sw1080 recharger but i think that with this is not possible to test it (it's a basic recharger).
One question: but if the battery load test it's bad I assume that i have to change the battery, but how can i be sure that this wasn't generate by other kind of problem?
To check the regulator i have to put on a new battery or there is another kind of test that can i do to check it?

Sorry....
i answer to myself
I have to buy a load battery tester and check the battery!!!
Someone have used something that is good to check the battery and can test the charging system too?

[WintrSol]

'Cause if i connect the cables to the car battery the bike starts and the multimeter show me 14.2 at hidle and at revs (going down).... but if i turn off the cables from the car, the things going as showed in this video (seems to be a bad regulator) .

Was the engine running in the car? You should never connect a running car to a motorcycle battery, as it can damage that battery.

[Juan71]

'Cause if i connect the cables to the car battery the bike starts and the multimeter show me 14.2 at hidle and at revs (going down).... but if i turn off the cables from the car, the things going as showed in this video (seems to be a bad regulator) .

Was the engine running in the car? You should never connect a running car to a motorcycle battery, as it can damage that battery.

Yes, i did it ! /
but If i don't run the car the bike doesn't start!
i stop the bike and this what happens:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/My7ohkHfnYHiNCyr8


Now, after one hour, the bike it's die... no lights of neutral and oil showed.
but i'm sure that if i recharge the battery, or connect the cables to the car...it runs!!!
It's not a fuse problem!

[Herb]

'Cause if i connect the cables to the car battery the bike starts and the multimeter show me 14.2 at hidle and at revs (going down).... but if i turn off the cables from the car, the things going as showed in this video (seems to be a bad regulator) .

Was the engine running in the car? You should never connect a running car to a motorcycle battery, as it can damage that battery.

Yes, i did it ! /
but If i don't run the car the bike doesn't start!
i stop the bike and this what happens:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/My7ohkHfnYHiNCyr8


Now, after one hour, the bike it's die... no lights of neutral and oil showed.
but i'm sure that if i recharge the battery, or connect the cables to the car...it runs!!!
It's not a fuse problem!

Most battery sales businesses will load test the battery for free. Around here AutoZone will do the load test for free. Charge the battery overnight and take it into a shop and get it load tested.

If you have already cleaned the terminals, charged the battery overnight, and it does the same thing, then it is a pretty good bet the battery is bad. If it were the charging system the bike would start and run until the battery gets too low to provide a spark.

There may be an issue with the charging system but it is impossible to really t-shoot with a bad battery.

[Juan71]

'Cause if i connect the cables to the car battery the bike starts and the multimeter show me 14.2 at hidle and at revs (going down).... but if i turn off the cables from the car, the things going as showed in this video (seems to be a bad regulator) .

Was the engine running in the car? You should never connect a running car to a motorcycle battery, as it can damage that battery.

Yes, i did it ! /
but If i don't run the car the bike doesn't start!
i stop the bike and this what happens:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/My7ohkHfnYHiNCyr8


Now, after one hour, the bike it's die... no lights of neutral and oil showed.
but i'm sure that if i recharge the battery, or connect the cables to the car...it runs!!!
It's not a fuse problem!

Most battery sales businesses will load test the battery for free. Around here AutoZone will do the load test for free. Charge the battery overnight and take it into a shop and get it load tested.

If you have already cleaned the terminals, charged the battery overnight, and it does the same thing, then it is a pretty good bet the battery is bad. If it were the charging system the bike would start and run until the battery gets too low to provide a spark.

There may be an issue with the charging system but it is impossible to really t-shoot with a bad battery.

Do you think it's imposible with a load battery tester too?
seems that's the problem!
i don't like to mount a New yuasa expensive battery and then destroy it with a bad charging sistem while i test them all!
Seems to be the dog that bites its tail!
How can i really check the regulator and stator without a battery?
it's good the check on the suzuki vs manual?
Thanks for the responses.

[Designer]

Do you think it's imposible with a load battery tester too?
seems that's the problem!
i don't like to mount a New yuasa expensive battery and then destroy it with a bad charging sistem while i test them all!
Seems to be the dog that bites its tail!
How can i really check the regulator and stator without a battery?
it's good the check on the suzuki vs manual?
Thanks for the responses.

After reading through all the many symptoms, tests and results you have posted, I have to go with what Herb just said.

If you have already cleaned the terminals, charged the battery overnight, and it does the same thing, then it is a pretty good bet the battery is bad. If it were the charging system the bike would start and run until the battery gets too low to provide a spark.

If you were to install a New Battery, the short time it would take to perform the Charging System Testing should not destroy it ( IF the system is at fault). A solid, reliable battery is essential to getting accurate Charging System Testing results.

Since you have cleaned all the electrical connections ( the Battery Cable Ground @ the Engine Case is so often overlooked) there is a decent chance that the New Battery will be the answer. It certainly would be foundational to searching for what is the problem if it does not.

As Herb said:

There may be an issue with the charging system..... but it is impossible to really t-shoot with a bad battery.