Some work in process

[FinTruder]

Good morning from northern hemisphere!
Todays exercise is to fit old air filter boxes in. Too much trouble came from those universal pods that previous owner installed. I'm also going to install EMGO,s over those stupid supertrapp mufflers that are currently in.

Few questions for fellow vs1400 enthusiast's
1) Since i don't know what jets my carbs have and carbs are just synced i rather leave them be. Question is can jetted carbs accept OEM filters with less flowing mufflers? Or do i have to rejet back to OEM setup?
2) i lost breather hose from front airbox, can i just install some random tube to it with no "blocker" on road side?
3) i have KN filter pack in stock, but is it worth to cut off filterbox sticks to fit those in or do i just leave OEM filters be?

[Lechy]

Try making socks for the pods using 1/2" filter foam, check the needles. if they are multi grooved set the clip at 3 down on the front and 4 down on the rear then adjust the AF setting. Might work, might not, but it's worth a try.

[FinTruder]

Try making socks for the pods using 1/2" filter foam, check the needles. if they are multi grooved set the clip at 3 down on the front and 4 down on the rear then adjust the AF setting. Might work, might not, but it's worth a try.

No, I'm not going to do any MacGyver shit on filters LOL. And like i said i just don't want to open carbs because i want to avoid any risks about carbs to go unsync.

[hillsy]

You should probably check what size jets are in your carbs now - they might still be stock and all will be OK.

As Lechy said if your needles are adjustable then you can move them up or down to fine tune along with adjusting the idle circuit screws.

[FinTruder]

You should probably check what size jets are in your carbs now - they might still be stock and all will be OK.

As Lechy said if your needles are adjustable then you can move them up or down to fine tune along with adjusting the idle circuit screws.

According to this pile from previous owner, i think carbs are tuned. Thing is, im middle of fkn nowhere and i dont have any sync tools if something goes wrong. Thats why i would love to know if jetted carbs can be paired with OEM boxes and EMGOs in picture...

[hillsy]

Kinda depends on how many sizes up the PO has gone with the jets - a size or possibly two up would probably be better than stock especially if you running ethanol fuel.

You could go and cut holes out of the airbox to help suit the jets but you'd be better off just changing the jets - that's why they have different sizes

[FinTruder]

Kinda depends on how many sizes up the PO has gone with the jets - a size or possibly two up would probably be better than stock especially if you running ethanol fuel.

You could go and cut holes out of the airbox to help suit the jets but you'd be better off just changing the jets - that's why they have different sizes

I'm running with 98 octane. Northern ethanol soup kills old vehicles..

[Lechy]

You are going to have to synch no matter what you do now that you have disturbed the carbs. You will also have to determine if the previous owner drilled the ports in the sliders and compare the current jets and needles to the OEM set up if you want to get back to original or prepare for some serious McGyvering.
Here is a link to a post I made for carb synch and AF adjustments: http://intruders-alert.com/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=4139

[Designer]

May I ask, what symptoms did you experience that lead you to conclude the Pod Filters were the problem?

[Herb]

Kinda depends on how many sizes up the PO has gone with the jets - a size or possibly two up would probably be better than stock especially if you running ethanol fuel.

You could go and cut holes out of the airbox to help suit the jets but you'd be better off just changing the jets - that's why they have different sizes

I'm running with 98 octane. Northern ethanol soup kills old vehicles..

With the low compression of these engines, 98 octane will not burn efficiently. It will be hard starting and won't burn all of the fuel. Run the lowest octane you can without getting a ping when rolling on the throttle hard at low rpm.

I am not well versed in the octane ratings that you have there but too high of octane will cause all kinds of issues.

Even a change of airboxes or the exhaust can throw the engine out of sync and you can't be sure it was in sync when you got it.

The guy that bought my '87 took it to a suzuki shop for a carb adjustment and sync. When he got it back it ran worse than when he bought it. He called me and ask if I could sync it. I did and got it running well again. The shop sync was 5 inches of mercury off.

Are you running exhaust without a crossover? if so there is an easy way to tell if it is off. Get the bike up to about 30mph (45-50 KPH) in 3rd gear and ease off the throttle a little at a time. If one side stops pulling before the other then it is out of balance.

[FinTruder]

With the low compression of these engines, 98 octane will not burn efficiently. It will be hard starting and won't burn all of the fuel. Run the lowest octane you can without getting a ping when rolling on the throttle hard at low rpm.

I am not well versed in the octane ratings that you have there but too high of octane will cause all kinds of issues.

Even a change of airboxes or the exhaust can throw the engine out of sync and you can't be sure it was in sync when you got it.

The guy that bought my '87 took it to a suzuki shop for a carb adjustment and sync. When he got it back it ran worse than when he bought it. He called me and ask if I could sync it. I did and got it running well again. The shop sync was 5 inches of mercury off.

Are you running exhaust without a crossover? if so there is an easy way to tell if it is off. Get the bike up to about 30mph (45-50 KPH) in 3rd gear and ease off the throttle a little at a time. If one side stops pulling before the other then it is out of balance.

We got two options in gasoline (excluding diesel)

95E10
Suitable for all engines with an octane requirement of RON 95 or less.
Suitable for engine manufacturer approved vehicles capable of using fuel with 10% ethanol. Contains up to 10 v/v-% ethanol.
Meets European directive 2009/30/EC and gasoline standard EN228, and Finnish regulation 1206/2010.
Methanol is not added to the product.
Metallic additives are not used.

98E5
Suitable for engines with an octane requirement over RON 95.
Suitable for vehicles that have not been approved for use with fuel containing more than 5% ethanol.
Contains up to 5 v/v-% ethanol.
Meets European directive 2009/30/EC, and gasoline standard EN228, and Finnish regulation 1206/2010.
Methanol is not added to the product.
Metallic additives are not used.

95E10 is not suitable for all engines and i didnt find any information from suzuki that i can use it. Basically that one killed lot of old vehicles here because it soften hoses and other components and vehicles started to cough and stump. Lot of topics here says that 95E10 clog jets and make carbs run like a shit and collect lot of shit and create vacuum leaks..

[Herb]

I have been using 87 octane here, which is approximately equivalent to 91 RON. That means that the 98 octane gas you are running fuel that burns so slow that you are not getting the full power or performance.

That is what Suzuki recommends for the 1400.

Octane rating can also be used to describe its inability to burn fast. In order to get the most out of a high octane fuel, you need a high compression engine and a lot more ignition advance than the 1400 is capable of.

Our 87 octane is 10% ethanol and it took over 15 years for my 99 intruder 1400 fuel hoses to get soft and the carbs have never been apart. I had it out for a short 50 mile, one-way, run for breakfast yesterday and it ran like a top, 2 up, 70-speed limit most of the way.

Pretty much all street engines since the early 80's have been designed to run on 10% ethanol and that includes the fuel lines and internal carb parts. The vast majority of the horror stories are from vehicles built prior to 1980.

[FinTruder]

I have been using 87 octane here, which is approximately equivalent to 91 RON. That means that the 98 octane gas you are running fuel that burns so slow that you are not getting the full power or performance.

That is what Suzuki recommends for the 1400.

Octane rating can also be used to describe its inability to burn fast. In order to get the most out of a high octane fuel, you need a high compression engine and a lot more ignition advance than the 1400 is capable of.

Our 87 octane is 10% ethanol and it took over 15 years for my 99 intruder 1400 fuel hoses to get soft and the carbs have never been apart. I had it out for a short 50 mile, one-way, run for breakfast yesterday and it ran like a top, 2 up, 70-speed limit most of the way.

Pretty much all street engines since the early 80's have been designed to run on 10% ethanol and that includes the fuel lines and internal carb parts. The vast majority of the horror stories are from vehicles built prior to 1980.

Ill give it a try. One tank wont hurt anything, I'll tell if i noticed any difference

[hillsy]

I've heard quite a bit of talk about carb'd bikes needing to be rejetted to suit ethanol fuel - some say its not needed whilst others say it is.

Something to think about anyway - your up-jetted carbs might be perfect for ethanol fuel ??

[Designer]

To me, this seems like more a Jetting issue than a Air Filter & Muffler.

Aren't there many guys running Pod Filters and Supertramp's that have very well running 1400's.

[FinTruder]

To me, this seems like more a Jetting issue than a Air Filter & Muffler.

Aren't there many guys running Pod Filters and Supertramp's that have very well running 1400's.

I took a peek in to the bowl's and saw all mighty jets, sizes 144 and 155

[Designer]

To me, this seems like more a Jetting issue than a Air Filter & Muffler.
Aren't there many guys running Pod Filters and Supertramp's that have very well running 1400's.

I took a peek in to the bowl's and saw all mighty jets, sizes 144 and 155

Okay,....Good that you checked. I didn't know if you had or not. But I am confused.

What was it about seeing those sized Jets that lead you to conclude the solution to the problems you were having was to go back to Stock Air Boxes?

[FinTruder]

Okay,....Good that you checked. I didn't know if you had or not. But I am confused.

What was it about seeing those sized Jets that lead you to conclude the solution to the problems you were having was to go back to Stock Air Boxes?

I don't have no problem, i just want to go back to stock much as possible with my bike and thought that i can pair jetted carbs with oem intake.
Reason i started to bring back old parts is that i may register my bike as museum vehicle to bring down expensive insurance costs.

[Designer]

Okay,....Good that you checked. I didn't know if you had or not. But I am confused.
What was it about seeing those sized Jets that lead you to conclude the solution to the problems you were having was to go back to Stock Air Boxes?

I don't have no problem, i just want to go back to stock much as possible with my bike and thought that i can pair jetted carbs with oem intake.
Reason i started to bring back old parts is that i may register my bike as museum vehicle to bring down expensive insurance costs.

Ooops, Sorry, I didn't know that Bringing Down Insurance Costs was the Goal.

Carry On!

[Uxbridge Brule]

From the first post one question was about K&N filters I put them in my bike last year and love them. I get a few more km per tank(stock jetting and exhaust) and don't have to clean them as much as the stock ones with little fear of them breaking down and clogging the carbs. I also run the highest octane I can get, more for the extra cleaning additives they say the put in with no pinging.