Decomp issue? Only cranks sometimes.. Also leaking fuel pump.. Lol

[hillsy]

The stuff in the bottom of the float bowl looks more like flaked varnish if anything. Hard to tell if there is rust in there as well.

Anyway, replacing the fuel lines and putting a filter in there is the best way forward.

[hillsy]

So curiosity got the better of me and I snuck out and pulled an old pump apart.

They appear to be a simple solenoid arrangement pulling on a diaphragm - similar to a vaccum fuel tap....

Here's the one way valve on the end with the inlet / outlet ports:


And here is the other end with the diaphragm and solenoid:


So I guess if the diaphragm isn't damaged you could probably snug up the tabs on the pump body to re-seal it?

[Designer]

Being that the Crud is Brown, not Black as are Fuel Lines...We can pretty much safely rule out the perishing fuel lines and save Bronx Intruder the money he'd spend on replacement of all those lines.
They "Aren't Cheap" as one might say;

Tank Cock to Fuel Valve Fuel Lines
HOSE, FUEL NO.1
44430-38B03 44430-38BR0
$20.46
HOSE, FUEL NO.2
44430-38B12 44430-38BS0
$23.27

Fuel Valve to Pump Fuel Line
HOSE, FUEL PUMP & COCK
44420-38B01 44420-38BR0
$41.41

Fuel Pump to Rear Carb Fuel Line
HOSE, FUEL (PUMP & CARB)
15801-38B00 15801-38B01
$17.11

Rear Carb to Front Carb Fuel Line
HOSE, FUEL (6.5X11.5X600) L:600!550
09354-65113-600
$16.88

[hillsy]

I don't think I have ever bought an OEM fuel hose for any bike I've either owned or worked on.

[Designer]

Suit yourself.
When it comes to the 1400 and it's very tight, crowded spaces, I've found that the Factory Preformed Fuel Lines are the best guarantee in preventing any kinks that can slow/stop fuel delivery.

The Point Still Being,....since there is no evidence of the fuel lines perishing, there's is no reason to even suggest such an expense.

[hillsy]

The Point Still Being,....since there is no evidence of the fuel lines perishing, there's is no reason to even suggest such an expense.

I think Bronx has already replaced the lines.

And I haven't seen his old fuel lines so I can't say there's no evidence of them perishing.

Fuel lines are pretty hard to get clean once they get full of varnish and crud. Especially pre- shaped ones. If it was on a bike where you could easily access the lines / carbs then not such a big deal but you don't want to pull these carbs out all the time.

[BRONX INTRUDER]

So curiosity got the better of me and I snuck out and pulled an old pump apart.

They appear to be a simple solenoid arrangement pulling on a diaphragm - similar to a vaccum fuel tap....

Here's the one way valve on the end with the inlet / outlet ports:


And here is the other end with the diaphragm and solenoid:


So I guess if the diaphragm isn't damaged you could probably snug up the tabs on the pump body to re-seal it?

Sweet.. That was quick. Lol. How hard was it?

[Designer]

The Point Still Being,....since there is no evidence of the fuel lines perishing, there's is no reason to even suggest such an expense.
And I haven't seen his old fuel lines so I can't say there's no evidence of them perishing.

I kinda-sorta think his picture of his Float Bowl with it's Brown-only debris,....without any Black hose debris,... pretty much confirms that there is no perishing of his fuel lines,...don't you?

.....Fuel lines are pretty hard to get clean once they get full of varnish and crud. Especially pre- shaped ones. If it was on a bike where you could easily access the lines / carbs then not such a big deal but you don't want to pull these carbs out all the time.

Why wouldn't a cleaning them in Carb Cleaner,...the same stuff that We have heard is ideal for removing Varnish for inside all those passages inside the Carb itself,...work just as well on the hose?

[hillsy]

Sweet.. That was quick. Lol. How hard was it?

Not that hard - you just need a small chisel or flat blade to tap in behind the tangs to spread them a bit. Just work your way round. I had the pump in a vice though - would be pretty hard to do it without.

Clamping it back together might be a bit trickier - you would have to ensure both ends of the pump body are pressed together while you crimp the tabs.

[BRONX INTRUDER]

Sweet.. That was quick. Lol. How hard was it?

Not that hard - you just need a small chisel or flat blade to tap in behind the tangs to spread them a bit. Just work your way round. I had the pump in a vice though - would be pretty hard to do it without.

Clamping it back together might be a bit trickier - you would have to ensure both ends of the pump body are pressed together while you crimp the tabs.

Ratchet strap? Lol.. Or just turn it in vice so its being squeezed together?

[hillsy]

Sweet.. That was quick. Lol. How hard was it?

Not that hard - you just need a small chisel or flat blade to tap in behind the tangs to spread them a bit. Just work your way round. I had the pump in a vice though - would be pretty hard to do it without.

Clamping it back together might be a bit trickier - you would have to ensure both ends of the pump body are pressed together while you crimp the tabs.

Ratchet strap? Lol.. Or just turn it in vice so its being squeezed together?

Yeah maybe? You've got the inlet / outlet ports on one end and the electrics on the other so its a bit tricky to clamp it in a vise. Probably not worth fixing when you can pick up a replacement for under $50 (admittedly not OEM).

[BRONX INTRUDER]

True.. Lol.

[Designer]

Interesting that we hear this recommendation of cheap pumps;

Probably not worth fixing when you can pick up a replacement for under $50 (admittedly not OEM).

When we also heard this;

.... now the new Amazon fuel pump has stopped working...... What would cause the pump flyback diode to fail like this?

The simple answer is that you bought the pump from Amazon. Cheap pumps .....are cheap pumps. I've probably been luckier than most using them with minimal failures but they are.....cheap pumps.

Since it seems the Stock Pumps are favored over the "cheap" pumps, I think rebuilding them has merit.

And reassembling them can happen somewhat easily, One can compress the two halves of the Stock Pump by holding one half in a Vise and aligning the other half, then holding the Whole Assembly together using Zip Ties. Then re-clamp the Tabs using a Channel Locks, or even the Vise.

[navigator]

Where do you suppose I can find an OEM replacement diaphragm?

[Designer]

Where do you suppose I can find an OEM replacement diaphragm?

Are you sure your Stock Pump is not pumping Gas because you need this part?,...or could be that it is not working well because of the Electrical Contacts needing replacement?

Or,...if it's leaking,...this is a possibility to save you money and get you back on the road sooner ;

So I guess if the diaphragm isn't damaged you could probably snug up the tabs on the pump body to re-seal it?

[hillsy]

Where do you suppose I can find an OEM replacement diaphragm?

I doubt that Suzuki would sell replacement parts for their fuel pumps - it would just be sold as a complete unit on the basis that any defect would make the unit "unserviceable".

You can buy diaphragm sheeting in various thicknesses on eBay. Here's one:

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/30367126056 ... %3A2544595



The biggest problem I would see (apart from cutting it for correct fit) would be getting the centre hole sealed over the solenoid shaft. It's a pressed on affair.