Backfiring

[Designer]

Seriously - do you think PB Blaster is going to go through a potentially blocked passage, then past the needle tip with a ridiculously fine tolerance (and again probably blocked) then past an o-ring that has been squashed in the orifice for over 20 years to get to the needle threads that are exposed on the other side?

First,...you have no proof the Air Jet passage is blocked,...even partially. In fact, the symptoms reported do not indicate that it is.

Second,...had you real Experience with PBlaster,...you'd know it can EASILY get past the gap between the Idle Screw Needle Tip and it's hole in the Carb Body.....and,....get past an "O" ring over time. It is a PENETRATING oil. That's what it is formulated to do.
I have seen it happen myself. I have had to do so with a set of '87 Carbs I studied to see if they had any secrets as to why the '87 Model year had the best HP Ratings/Performance.

You did give good advice telling him to try turning the Idle Screw in first. Let's see if he already did that.

[00Vs1400GLP]

I did not try to turn it in first. That is a good idea. I don’t know when I’ll have time to look at it again but when I do, I’ll give that a shot.

[hillsy]

I did not try to turn it in first. That is a good idea. I don’t know when I’ll have time to look at it again but when I do, I’ll give that a shot.

As long as you can get some movement in the screw either way it will break the "weld" of corrosion and allow the penetrating fluid to move into the threads. You need to be very patient and just move it back and forth until it starts to free up. These screws are soft and the threads are fine so take your time.

The worst one I had that I could save was on a Hyosung GT250 rear caliper - the slide pin on the carrier was totally corroded / seized in the caliper and I had that thing in the vice for days just soaking until I finally got some movement in it. I tried heat cycles as well -had to let it soak and jusy try and tweak it every day or so. Finally started to move then it was a matter of back and forth initially only about 1/16 turn until it started to free up.

[Designer]

I did not try to turn it in first. That is a good idea. I don’t know when I’ll have time to look at it again but when I do, I’ll give that a shot.

This is what I did when I was working on those two '87 Carbs. Since this is not a "tightened down" situation ( like it would be if it was a Bolt holding on a part) there is a chance it might move in first.

Can you snap a picture of the current condition of the Idle Screw Head please? I might have another suggestion to offer you.

[hillsy]

This is what I did when I was working on those two '87 Carbs.

Of course you did - that's why you never mentioned it until now.

[Designer]

This is what I did when I was working on those two '87 Carbs.

Of course you did - that's why you never mentioned it until now.

You are up awfully late. Why?
Yes, you are correct. That is what I did. I did so after I soaked the "back side" of the Idle Screw. Doing so loosened it up whereas it wasn't before ,...so the PBlaster got past the "O" ring and worked on the Threads from that side.

[hillsy]

I did so after I soaked the "back side" of the Idle Screw. Doing so loosened it up whereas it wasn't before ,...so the PBlaster got past the "O" ring and worked on the Threads from that side.

Sorry. Actually don't want to labor the point but you must be mistaken. That simply wouldn't happen.

[Designer]

I did so after I soaked the "back side" of the Idle Screw. Doing so loosened it up whereas it wasn't before ,...so the PBlaster got past the "O" ring and worked on the Threads from that side.

Sorry. Actually don't want to labor the point but you must be mistaken. That simply wouldn't happen.

So sorry,...but No,...it is you that is mistaken. Time for you to learn more.

PBlaster softened/weakened the "O" Ring and the penetrating action that it is designed to do worked around the Seal that it once had done.

Replacing an "O" Ring (that is readily available) is far and away much preferred than replacing the Carb ( which is hard to come by and big $$$) because the Idle Screw wouldn't come out.

Glad I could be Of Help and school you as to what is possible.

[hillsy]

I did so after I soaked the "back side" of the Idle Screw. Doing so loosened it up whereas it wasn't before ,...so the PBlaster got past the "O" ring and worked on the Threads from that side.

Sorry. Actually don't want to labor the point but you must be mistaken. That simply wouldn't happen.

So sorry,...but No,...it is you that is mistaken. Time for you to learn more.

PBlaster softened/weakened the "O" Ring and the penetrating action that it is designed to do worked around the Seal that it once had done.

Replacing an "O" Ring (that is readily available) is far and away much preferred than replacing the Carb ( which is hard to come by and big $$$) because the Idle Screw wouldn't come out.

Glad I could be Of Help and school you as to what is possible.

[Designer]

I did so after I soaked the "back side" of the Idle Screw. Doing so loosened it up whereas it wasn't before ,...so the PBlaster got past the "O" ring and worked on the Threads from that side.

Sorry. Actually don't want to labor the point but you must be mistaken. That simply wouldn't happen.

So sorry,...but No,...it is you that is mistaken. Time for you to learn more.
PBlaster softened/weakened the "O" Ring and the penetrating action that it is designed to do worked around the Seal that it once had done.
Replacing an "O" Ring (that is readily available) is far and away much preferred than replacing the Carb ( which is hard to come by and big $$$) because the Idle Screw wouldn't come out.

Glad I could be Of Help and school you as to what is possible.

Glad you enjoyed our little Class Session. Now you know more that can be of help to others.

[hillsy]

Glad you enjoyed our little Class Session. Now you know more that can be of help to others.

Alright - if you want to keep playing...

Are you saying you DIDN'T put penetrating fluid on the threads on the outer side of the screw? You seem positive the fluid travelled past the o ring but you could only be CERTAIN of that if you ONLY had the fluid on the needle side.

[Designer]

Glad you enjoyed our little Class Session. Now you know more that can be of help to others.

Alright - if you want to keep playing...Are you saying you DIDN'T put penetrating fluid on the threads on the outer side of the screw? You seem positive the fluid travelled past the o ring but you could only be CERTAIN of that if you ONLY had the fluid on the needle side.

hillsy,...I am not "playing" some sort of "Game". We all know from previous Threads that you enjoy dragging down Threads with such an attitude.

Now,....get Over whatever "issues" you have with my posting Technical Help that you find threatens your Notions that you are "The Burning Bush" of the Tech Boards.

[hillsy]

Now,....get Over whatever "issues" you have with my posting Technical Help that you find threatens your Notions that you are "The Burning Bush" of the Tech Boards.

The problem is your "technical help" is NOT helping.

If you are going to try and offer solutions make them valid.

[Designer]

Now,....get Over whatever "issues" you have with my posting Technical Help that you find threatens your Notions that you are "The Burning Bush" of the Tech Boards.

The problem is your "technical help" is NOT helping. If you are going to try and offer solutions make them valid.

You have No Proof of your claim here.

However, your saying as you just did ( without Anything to back it up) does demonstrate your attitude that only you have "All The Answers",..and your Closed Minded Attitude to learning anything else but what you already know.\

Since you continue to display such chosen ignorance and "I Am The Burning Bush"' attitude,...it is YOU that is not helping.

[hillsy]

Since you continue to display such chosen ignorance and "I Am The Burning Bush"' attitude,...it is YOU that is not helping.

Sorry - I offered probably the most helpful advice in the whole thread after your delusional ranting about spraying PB Blaster inside the pilot jets and then you came back and said "Oh yeah - I did that too". Fucking rubbish.

00Vs1400GLP - hope you enjoy the show so far! That's what old mate does - offers up some daft advice and then rants on for 20 pages about how I'm ruining the thread

Here's another tip which Designer will not doubt say he's done heaps....

If the slot in the screw is stuffed (they are soft - it probably is) you can get a Dremel with a thin cutting disc and cut a slot back in it. Yes you will cut into the carb body where the screw threads are but you will not ruin the carb - the screw seals with the o-ring which is about an inch below the top of the screw. Make sure you clean up any burrs before you try and remove the screw. Good luck with it when you get around to it

[Designer]

Since you continue to display such chosen ignorance and "I Am The Burning Bush"' attitude,...it is YOU that is not helping.

Sorry - I offered probably the most helpful advice in the whole thread after your delusional ranting about spraying PB Blaster inside the pilot jets and then you came back and said "Oh yeah - I did that too". Fucking rubbish.

hillsy,..This is not some sort of "contest" where you are trying to be "The One" who posts the most helpful advice.

And,...your Claims that my advice is "delusional ranting" is just that,..YOU Ranting Delusionally. Why is because you have posted nothing that backs up such a Personal Attack on me and my posted experience.

Your fragile ego is on full display here as you confirm all I said about your attitude that ,.."I'm the Burning Bush" of the Tech Boards.
Please,.....for that sake of The Tech Board,...stop parading around,...carrying on as if you "Own The Place"....and only you can provide helpful advice..
Just because you get a paycheck for working on Motorcycles, does NOT mean you have the ONLY experience(s) that are viable.


BTW, 00Vs1400GLP - About the Advice I wanted to share with you,...there is an easy and effective method to loosening the Idle Screw
Just a little Heat on the Outside of the Screw Bore might be all that needed. and there is a nifty small Butane "torch" that will Do The Trick without over heating the Carb Body and damaging other things.

Here's a picture of it:


Certainly,....doing so will be much more effective and less damaging all this cutting you just head about .. would be to use Heat on the outside of the Idle Screw Body.

[hillsy]

Heat is great but won't really help if the slot is munted.

A much better tip than trying to put penetrating fluid on the threads from the other side though so good on you for offering something more useful

[Designer]

Heat is great but won't really help if the slot is munted. A much better tip than trying to put penetrating fluid on the threads from the other side though so good on you for offering something more useful

Back to making this some sort of "competition"'.

You have failed to post anything of substance that backs up your "claim" that my PBlaster method suggestion is faulty.

Thus, with out posting anything,...it is your "claim" that is not only not "useful"...but is destructive to this Thread.

When are you going to stop posting that displays your Superiority Complex?

[hillsy]

Never stops.

[Designer]

Never stops.

Yes,...your shit never does.. ....and you will prove me right very shortly, I'm sure.