'94 VS1400 No Pressure in Clutch Lever

[hillsy v2]

No you don't have to disconnect the syringe in this application - this system has fresh fluid already. But you can remove the air from the hose and nipple without drawing fluid out.

What you just said here, is in direct ioppositio0bn to what you said here;

Sure you'll introduce a little bit of air, but as long as you've got enough fluid in the syringe then it would all get forced out the master, right?

Suction some fluid out of the bleed nipple first up to draw any air out of the nipple / hose.

Seems we have a Credibility problem here.

No - there's just more than one way to do it.

[Shirkni]

Good morning everyone,

Got the new bleeder yesterday, and I'm gonna attempt to get my pressure back today after work. Quick question, does anyone know any stores I can get a large syringe at without having to order one? I've checked Walmart and rite aids websites but I'm only finding small oral ones or for ear flushing. I'd like to pick one up after I get off.

[Designer]

No you don't have to disconnect the syringe in this application - this system has fresh fluid already. But you can remove the air from the hose and nipple without drawing fluid out.

What you just said here, is in direct ioppositio0bn to what you said here;

Sure you'll introduce a little bit of air, but as long as you've got enough fluid in the syringe then it would all get forced out the master, right?

Suction some fluid out of the bleed nipple first up to draw any air out of the nipple / hose.

Seems we have a Credibility problem here.

No - there's just more than one way to do it.

Since there is virtually only one way to connecting it to the Bleeder,...I don't see how this can be.

Can you elaborate please.

[Designer]

Originally, when I didn't get pressure back in the lever the first time, I thought there was air in the system still (definitely a possibility still lol) so I got that cheap Pittsburgh automotive bleed kit but the seal on the lid for the inline reservoir was bad and I would have to hold it tight for the vacuum to be present.

Definitely have thought about grabbing the mityvac but didn't want to drop too much money on the issue if I didn't need to.

Since you already have The Tool to do the bleeding successfully, seems all you need do is create the proper Seal on the Lid.....yes?

A simple solution might be to first check to see if there are any nicks on the Cup Top, and the underside of The Lid. If not, then try using a Plumbing Product called Stem Packing. This version is a 3/32" Diameter "rope" of Teflon. I bet it could easily be placed in the Groove of the Lid and when compressed, get the seal you need.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/DANCO-3-32- ... /203193512

And at only about $4.13, ...it is certainly The Least Expensive,... and Quickest,... Way to get the bleeding done and get you Back On the Road Again.

[hillsy v2]

Since there is virtually only one way to connecting it to the Bleeder,...I don't see how this can be.

Can you elaborate please.

Ok - you start with a syringe and about 6 inches of clear hose. 50cc syringe is adequate.

You fill the syringe with fresh fluid.

Put the hose firmly onto the closed bleed nipple.

Hold the syringe upright so the hose is vertical underneath the syringe.

Tap the hose and/or apply a small amount of pressure to the syringe.

The air in the hose and in the top of the bleed nipple will go up into the syringe.

Then you can crack the bleeder open and reverse bleed.

[Designer]

Good!

I've found that it's always best to give Detailed Instructions,... so that each Board Member gets the Best Possible Info when trying something new.

Keeps them from having to learn it by trial-and-error, eh?

[hillsy v2]

Glad I could teach you something

[Shirkni]

Well after many many attempts I now know a few things.

1 - I know I've been bleeding the correctly all along because I just did the front brakes and immediately I have pressure and total braking power.
2 - I still have insufficient pressure in the clutch, it's enough to actuate it but when it's in gear and I pull the clutch in I still gotta put way more effort into moving the hog than I should, and after taking the slave cylinder off I believe the seal is bad on it. Which doesn't surprise me because it looks to be the same age as the cylinders and levers I replaced.
And finally, I snapped one of the bolts for the slave cylinder as well. So I'm thinking I'm gonna replace the slave. But I tried bleeding with it off the bike and clamping the piston down. Tried it normally and reverse and I keep getting the same results. I know there's no air in the system tho.

Thanks again for the advice everyone, I'll be sure to post again once I discover more.

[hillsy v2]

I still have insufficient pressure in the clutch, it's enough to actuate it but when it's in gear and I pull the clutch in I still gotta put way more effort into moving the hog than I should,

Just so you know - it's a wet clutch system and there will always be resistance when you are trying to move the bike whilst in gear with the clutch lever in. It will be worse when its cold.

Some bikes offer little resistance whilst others are near impossible to move. It's not an indication of clutch operation health.

With the slave cylinder if the seal is bad it will leak. It will be pretty obvious. You're probably best getting a seal kit for your existing slave and cleaning it up.

[Shirkni]

I still have insufficient pressure in the clutch, it's enough to actuate it but when it's in gear and I pull the clutch in I still gotta put way more effort into moving the hog than I should,

Just so you know - it's a wet clutch system and there will always be resistance when you are trying to move the bike whilst in gear with the clutch lever in. It will be worse when its cold.

Some bikes offer little resistance whilst others are near impossible to move. It's not an indication of clutch operation health.

With the slave cylinder if the seal is bad it will leak. It will be pretty obvious. You're probably best getting a seal kit for your existing slave and cleaning it up.

Thanks for the info! Yeah I was operating on the assumption of the feel and operation of the old cylinders so I'll have to give it a shot once I get the battery charged up again (killed it while it was cold out the other day lol)

[sgtcall]

Intruders need a great battery to run right, make sure it is fully charged and if it is old consider replacing it or having it load tested.

[Designer]

What was said about a Wet Clutch and the Bike being difficult to move without the engine running is true.

However, what you have reported about the Bike jumping/dying when going-from-neutral-to-first-gear seems to point out that the normal Wet-clutch situation is not your problem/issue.

If the bike is doing this:

Hey all, I figured it wouldn't be a bad idea to get some opinions and suggestions on this issue I've been having with the hydraulic clutch system.

It started about 3 weeks ago. I went to ride to work in the morning and I started up in neutral, put it in first and it died. Tried again, same thing, so I started in first. Immediately it wanted to move forward slowly with the clutch lever fully pulled in, and would try to take off with the slightest release of the lever.....

It would seem to Indicate that the Hydraulic System is not actuating/releasing the Clutch all the way. Since this problem started coming on while you were using the Bike and was running fine beforehand, ....that pretty much would preclude a Stuck Clutch Pack.

I might suggest you follow through with a Slave Cylinder Rebuild, paying close attention to what the Seals condition is when you take it apart so that you can know why it failed.

Keep us filled in. We're pulling for you.

[hillsy v2]

If the seal in the slave is gone you'll know pretty quick because it just leaks. The slave might be gunked up but you probably also still have air in the line if you have tried clamping the slave piston down but still don't get any pressure.

[Designer]

Sirkni,...when you do take the Slave Cylinder apart, I've found it's a good idea to figure out why it failed you, so as to avoid having it happen again.

Since we now know that the Hydraulic System doesn't produce sufficient movement to actuate the Clutch completely, could it be that the Seal has hardened?.......It is bolted to the Engine Case, and that can get up around/over 200 degrees behind a Cover for a long time while Riding.

Could it be that the Slave Piston has Dirt/Junk also stopping/ restricting it's Free Movement? Check on both the Inside and Outside.

Is there any Water Moisture present?

How does the Engine Case Area behind the Slave Cylinder look?

I like to be as thorough as possible before installing New Seals.

[Shirkni]

Sirkni,...when you do take the Slave Cylinder apart, I've found it's a good idea to figure out why it failed you, so as to avoid having it happen again.

Since we now know that the Hydraulic System doesn't produce sufficient movement to actuate the Clutch completely, could it be that the Seal has hardened?.......It is bolted to the Engine Case, and that can get up around/over 200 degrees behind a Cover for a long time while Riding.

Could it be that the Slave Piston has Dirt/Junk also stopping/ restricting it's Free Movement? Check on both the Inside and Outside.

Is there any Water Moisture present?

How does the Engine Case Area behind the Slave Cylinder look?

I like to be as thorough as possible before installing New Seals.

When I initially took it off, I didn't check the internals but I cleaned off the mounting surface and underneath the "cap", as well as the rod. But when I took it off yesterday I did take the piston out and it was fairly dirty. I noticed that when I had the piston clamped when I bled it that way there was definitely fluid seeping out around it. The seal did seam to be tough to me. I ordered a replacement cylinder just so I could hook it up and be done with it lol

[Designer]

When I initially took it off, I didn't check the internals but I cleaned off the mounting surface and underneath the "cap", as well as the rod. But when I took it off yesterday I did take the piston out and it was fairly dirty. I noticed that when I had the piston clamped when I bled it that way there was definitely fluid seeping out around it. The seal did seam to be tough to me. I ordered a replacement cylinder just so I could hook it up and be done with it lol

Buying a whole new Slave Cylinder will CERTAINLY make sure anything that caused the old one to leak is "taken care of"....eh?

I'd really like to see you post that you are Back On The Road Again.

[Shirkni]

Mini Update


I got the battery charged up again, started it up today and it didn't die when I shifted into 1st. So I went for a short ride (didn't wanna go too long with the broken mounting bolt on the slave) and I was perfectly able to shift through all of the gears. I have already ordered the replacement slave (not sure if it comes with new bolts tho) and I got an extraction kit for the stuck threads.

Should I replace the slave with the new one just so everything in the system (except the hose) is new, or keep it for when/if the original slave does fail?

Either way, it was great to ride around for a little bit!

[hillsy v2]

Mini Update


I got the battery charged up again, started it up today and it didn't die when I shifted into 1st. So I went for a short ride (didn't wanna go too long with the broken mounting bolt on the slave) and I was perfectly able to shift through all of the gears. I have already ordered the replacement slave (not sure if it comes with new bolts tho) and I got an extraction kit for the stuck threads.

Should I replace the slave with the new one just so everything in the system (except the hose) is new, or keep it for when/if the original slave does fail?

Either way, it was great to ride around for a little bit!

If the slave is leaking probably best to replace. When they start to leak they can draw in air - you will more than likely have the same problem again soon.

[Designer]

Mini Update I got the battery charged up again, started it up today and it didn't die when I shifted into 1st. So I went for a short ride (didn't wanna go too long with the broken mounting bolt on the slave) and I was perfectly able to shift through all of the gears. I have already ordered the replacement slave (not sure if it comes with new bolts tho) and I got an extraction kit for the stuck threads.
Should I replace the slave with the new one just so everything in the system (except the hose) is new, or keep it for when/if the original slave does fail?
Either way, it was great to ride around for a little bit!

Most Excellent News!....welllll,... almost.

Good to hear you got some Riding Time in. And from that, it seems like have solved your Hydraulic Bleeding issues without spending more money on a tool you didn't need. Always a good thing to save your money.

I doubt your Replacement Slave Cylinder comes with New Bolts, so you'll need to get new. With the broken one,...is there anything sticking out past the edge of the Engine Case? Do you have any Penetrating Oil?

Inquiring Minds want to know.

[Shirkni]

Mini Update I got the battery charged up again, started it up today and it didn't die when I shifted into 1st. So I went for a short ride (didn't wanna go too long with the broken mounting bolt on the slave) and I was perfectly able to shift through all of the gears. I have already ordered the replacement slave (not sure if it comes with new bolts tho) and I got an extraction kit for the stuck threads.
Should I replace the slave with the new one just so everything in the system (except the hose) is new, or keep it for when/if the original slave does fail?
Either way, it was great to ride around for a little bit!

I doubt your Replacement Slave Cylinder comes with New Bolts, so you'll need to get new. With the broken one,...is there anything sticking out past the edge of the Engine Case? Do you have any Penetrating Oil?

I actually haven't checked out the bolt since I snapped it so I'm not sure to what extent it's sticking out from the engine case. I do not have penetrating oil tho