Clutch help

[Designer]

Now that's Good News! I had hoped there was enough of the Broken Bolt to get out without having to Drill and use an Extractor.

I am a bit concerned that you had reported there was "no friction area at all" as you release the clutch though. What you say you had experienced doesn't quite sound like what you should have.

I cannot, at this writing, say what mine does in this regard. However, I will test mine and report back as to the amount of Lever Movement I have from Initial-point-of-contact to full engagement.

[hillsy v2]

Something else that might help you - if you are unhappy with where the clutch engages in the lever travel (IE: too far out) and you can't get enough adjustment with the lever adjuster - you can trim down the actuating rod that runs from the lever to the MC. This will bring the lever closer to the bars and effectively bring the engagement point closer in. You only need to trim about 1/16 or 1/8 inch - you can't put it back on so do it in stages and go easy

I also ended up with span adjustable levers on my 1500 - along with the trimming of the rod these helped a lot as they have far more adjustability through 6 positions. Got a set on my V-Strom now as well (along with the trimmed rod). You can get them off eBay pretty cheap - something like this: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/17530890418 ... R5bU_IeGYQ

[Designer]

If I may suggest vintruder, perhaps it would be wisest if you were to Hold Off on any cutting/grinding Mods (that are irreversible) of the Actuating Rod. before we work through this issue you report of,.."No Friction Area" ?

[hillsy v2]

I think he means he has plenty of lever travel now before it bites instead of the previous 1/4 inch. Like normal.

[vintruder]

Designer - The loose slave cylinder was the problem and I am back in business with the lever/friction area. I have a good inch or so off the handlebar from disengaged to full engagement. The lever feels very sturdy (no mushy/trapped air) and it engages very solid and shifting is smooth. So I think I am good for now.

Hillsy - with regard to adjustability those are very good additional suggestions I had not thought of either. I am going to try driving it around for a while and see how it does, if I need to I will come back to trying one of those methods.

Thank you both for your help and quick response ! I will stay tuned and keep you posted on anything else that comes up.

[Designer]

Designer - The loose slave cylinder was the problem and I am back in business with the lever/friction area. I have a good inch or so off the handlebar from disengaged to full engagement. [:space: u]The lever feels very sturdy (no mushy/trapped air) and it engages very solid and shifting is smooth.[/u] So I think I am good for now.

Very Good News!
I was pretty sure what you posted told of the Lever Travel being back to normal,...I had my concerns in that this aspect (underlined above) might still have been lingering after the Broken Bolt issue was fixed.

Thank you both for your help and quick response ! I will stay tuned and keep you posted on anything else that comes up.

You are most welcome! Helping out our Fellow Riders is why we are all here on The Tech Board.
Let's hope you next posting isn't more trouble!

[vintruder]

Thanks again ! Designer, you asked for it- my next posting is a little related advice. I use your method for bleeding the brake and clutch lines and it works great. One thing I did notice from time to time was just the tiniest bit of air creeps back into the lines at the banjo bolt unless it is extremely tight. The manual calls for 14-18 ft-lbs I believe. I did that and was still having to occasionally bleed, particularly the clutch line. An extra 1/8 turn and I don't seem to have the issue anymore. I know those torque specs are there for a reason, but that is just what ended up working for me. Something to think about for anyone that just can't quite get them right.

[Designer]

Thanks again ! Designer, you asked for it- my next posting is a little related advice. I use your method for bleeding the brake and clutch lines and it works great. One thing I did notice from time to time was just the tiniest bit of air creeps back into the lines at the banjo bolt unless it is extremely tight. The manual calls for 14-18 ft-lbs I believe. I did that and was still having to occasionally bleed, particularly the clutch line. An extra 1/8 turn and I don't seem to have the issue anymore. I know those torque specs are there for a reason, but that is just what ended up working for me. Something to think about for anyone that just can't quite get them right.

Being that the two Sealing Washers that flank the Banjo Bolt and "crush" washers,.. resusing them will sometimes beget the "leakage" you report.

In my experiences, I have not had any air "Creep In" past them when reusing them again. However, I have found that whenever the Hydraulic System is totally drained, one can find some teeny, tiny Air Bubbles climbing up into the very small recess between the inside curved area of the Banjo Bolt and the Exterior Diameter of the Banjo Bolt itself....(being that small area is usually the highest point in the System).

They First-time-success Sure-Fire Method of Clean and Paint-Safe removal of all those tiny bubbles is found here;
http://intruders-alert.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=4

[mikebet45]

FWIW I have found that "bleeding" (actually injecting) fluid from the slave cylinder upward using a syringe to be the most effective way. Of course you have to elevate the master cylinder as much as possible and try to get the hydraulic line as straight as possible. When I do it this way I have noticed a small cluster of tiny bubbles which emerge in the master immediately as I begin to put pressure into the system, which tells me that those bubbles were hiding in the banjo bolt just waiting to be ushered out. Anyhoo, this works for me.

[hillsy v2]

FWIW I have found that "bleeding" (actually injecting) fluid from the slave cylinder upward using a syringe to be the most effective way. Of course you have to elevate the master cylinder as much as possible and try to get the hydraulic line as straight as possible. When I do it this way I have noticed a small cluster of tiny bubbles which emerge in the master immediately as I begin to put pressure into the system, which tells me that those bubbles were hiding in the banjo bolt just waiting to be ushered out. Anyhoo, this works for me.

About 30 years ago an old mechanic showed me how to use a syringe to reverse bleed. I've never used anything else since.

Some will argue its "not the proper way" or some other shit but its the most effective and produces the least amount of waste fluid.

And BTW - you can use a syringe to either push or pull the fluid. Does twice the job of a MityVac.

[Designer]

Since storing the unused portion of the new Brake Fluid results in it absorbing moisture and becoming unusable, saving anything left is just not smart.
you end up tossing it anyways.

Either method can made to work, but others here on this board have found that when trying both that drawing the fluid down with gravity has been the least effort and needed at times,......resulting in their success.

[hillsy v2]

Since storing the unused portion of the new Brake Fluid results in it absorbing moisture and becoming unusable, saving anything left is just not smart.
you end up tossing it anyways.

Are you saying every time you change or top up brake / clutch fluid you buy a new bottle and throw out what's left over?

Now I can see why you don't have a problem pumping a pint of fluid into a MityVac.

[Designer]

Since storing the unused portion of the new Brake Fluid results in it absorbing moisture and becoming unusable, saving anything left is just not smart. you end up tossing it anyways.

Are you saying every time you change or top up brake / clutch fluid you buy a new bottle and throw out what's left over?Now I can see why you don't have a problem pumping a pint of fluid into a MityVac.

hillsy,...I don't need to "top off" anything on my 1400 hydraulic systems in between replacement intervals .

And,..yes,..I am Smart ,...and use Fresh, New, UN hydrolyzed fluid when I replace my hydraulic fluid in the systems.

That's what PROFESSIONAL mechanics do.

[hillsy v2]

And,..yes,..I am Smart ,...and use Fresh, New, UN hydrolyzed fluid when I replace my hydraulic fluid in the systems.

That's what PROFESSIONAL mechanics do.

I can guarantee you no professional mechanic opens up a new bottle of brake fluid for each bike then throws out whats left.

[Designer]

And,..yes,..I am Smart ,...and use Fresh, New, UN hydrolyzed fluid when I replace my hydraulic fluid in the systems. That's what PROFESSIONAL mechanics do.

I can guarantee you no professional mechanic opens up a new bottle of brake fluid for each bike then throws out whats left.

Being a warehouse worker not a Professional Mechanic,.....you have little knowledge of what you speak in this is the case.

I know,..for a fact, that the TRUE professionals use only Brand New Hydraulic Fluid when serving those systems. a Big Part of the reason why is because their is liability involved.

I shouldn't have to explain this,...but you show I need to.

Hydraulic Fluid exposed to air absorbs moisture, thus lowering it's 'boiling point". This moisture boils at 212 degrees, and when it Vaporizes ,...there is then little-to-NO hydraulic pressure. Which can result in Catastrophe or Death in Brake Systems,...and similar to a lesser extent in Clutch Systems.

Class over.

[hillsy v2]

And,..yes,..I am Smart ,...and use Fresh, New, UN hydrolyzed fluid when I replace my hydraulic fluid in the systems. That's what PROFESSIONAL mechanics do.

I can guarantee you no professional mechanic opens up a new bottle of brake fluid for each bike then throws out whats left.

Being a warehouse worker not a Professional Mechanic,.....you have little knowledge of what you speak in this is the case.

I know,..for a fact, that the TRUE professionals use only Brand New Hydraulic Fluid when serving those systems. a Big Part of the reason why is because their is liability involved.

I shouldn't have to explain this,...but you show I need to.

Hydraulic Fluid exposed to air absorbs moisture, thus lowering it's 'boiling point". This moisture boils at 212 degrees, and when it Vaporizes ,...there is then little-to-NO hydraulic pressure. Which can result in Catastrophe or Death in Brake Systems,...and similar to a lesser extent in Clutch Systems.

Class over.

You simply have no idea.

Tell me why you can buy brake fluid in 20 litre drums then?

Do the "professionals" throw all that out after they finish a job?

Speaking out your ass.

[Herb]

Geez guys. I DO NOT throw perfectly good brake fluid away. As long as as it is clear it is good. When it starts getting hazy then I throw it away.

The brakes and clutch on mine never gets enough of a workout that it is a big deal. The brakes and a hyd clutch on a racing bike would get enough of a work out that it would matter but the way I ride replacing the brake and clutch fluids once a year, with CLEAR fluid, not new, has always been adequate.

What a bunch of crap to argue about.

[hillsy v2]

What a bunch of crap to argue about.

For once we agree.

[Designer]

You simply have no idea. Tell me why you can buy brake fluid in 20 litre drums then?
Do the "professionals" throw all that out after they finish a job? Speaking out your ass.

Not AT ALL. They who buy such fluid in that quantity are ones who USE IT in such quantity that it doesn't sit around for months and months.
You never heard of commercial Grade Back Hoes/ Payloaders/Forklifts, etc. that have LARGE QUANTITIES (gallons) of hydraulic fluids in them?

I am talking about Brake Fluid that will sit around for amounts of time,...ABSORBING moisture. You know,...Just as I HAD TO explain to you?

I know for sure that Professional Car/Motorcycle Mechanics cannot afford the LIABILTIES of using such contaminated fluid. Some Homeowners might, but that's their risk/call. So please,..Mr,. Warehouse Worker,...,...stop "speaking out of YOUR ass",.. and re-read what I explained about such liabilities......K?

The point still being,...using the least amount of Hydraulic Fluid is nice,...but hardly the Main Focus when one is evaluating what Bleeding method they might want to use.

[Herb]

Hyd fluid and brake fluid are 2 different things.

I worked around heavy equipment and ran dozers for many years. We bought hyd fluid in 55 gallon drums and it was NEVER thrown away after using out of it.