Rate my performance upgrade options

[thedaydreamer]

Hi
I made a decision to throw some upgrades at this bike and make it my project bike to see how far I can push it, do you have any opinion on these upgrades and if they are worth it


K and N filters



dyno jet kit
https://www.dynojet.com/jet-kit-for-suz ... 00-vs1400/


dynotek 300
https://www.dynaonline.com/dyna-3000-di ... 07-d3k3-2/



I have the Cobra slash cut slip on but they sound a bit wanky to me, maybe thinking about some jardine drags or an even better aggressive exhaust, Ill take ideas

Possible main or pilot jet changes


If making these changes, what should I do first to dial in or does it matter?
TY for your help

[Designer]

Do it!

May I suggest you go with V & H Mufflers? I had them before I made my own pipes, and LOVED the sound! They ROARED when you got on it. Got many a compliment on the sound.

I did try using larger Pilot Jets, but went back to Stock and it ran better.

[thedaydreamer]

Ok great, is there an order that I should do these in?

I would love the vance and hines, Im looking for the classic 2, but ill use any,,,,problem is, I cant find any, you know any sources for the 1400 and vance and hines?

[Designer]

Ok great, is there an order that I should do these in?

Yes,....Pipes first. Why is because any Carb/Ignition changes are done to match their Performance.

I would love the vance and hines, Im looking for the classic 2, but ill use any,,,,problem is, I cant find any, you know any sources for the 1400 and vance and hines?

I'll wager that because the 1400 has been discontinued, V&H doesn't stock them new anymore. I just did a search and find anything right now.

I'll do some asking around for ya.

[thedaydreamer]

Thanks, thats great, let me know if you find anything because I have not

[sky02]

I am thinking about something similar.
Dynatek 3000, carb jet kit, pipes and maybe KN filters.
The pipes that I have already installed are LeoVince Silvertails K02 but I’ve bought racing db killers (standard have full EU homologation so something like super quiet db killers from Vance). Sound is lovely and they have the H pipe connector in the middle with is good for torque.

1)I know that KN cones will give you better top end but they will rob you of some low end torque. What about the drop ins? Are they somewhere in between the stock filters and cones? I don’t want to lose the low and middle RPMs in that bike?

2)Here the jet kits from dyno jet and cobra that are basically aggressive needle plus drilling a larger lift hole in carb piston don’t have a good reputation. Right now I am pretty sure that the stock pilot jets are ok as I am somewhere between 2-2,5 turns (depends on the time of the year and temperatures ) but I had to rise the needle front 1 notch, rear 0,5 notch using shims. I think that I could use some larger main jets, maybe one or two sizes. Sometimes when I am at WOT for some time and I let off the throttle I feel that she pulls a bit stronger. That’s why I was thinking about the Factory Pro 1.0.

3) Dyna 3000. Is it worth the money without the drag pipes and cone filters AKA uncorked bike? I have read the manual https://manualzz.com/doc/24514674/dynat ... ner-manual and it says that older bikes have a stock curve like no6 and newer like no1 later when the curves are explained they say that curves no 6 & 7 are for modified V twins with higher compression and changed cams. On stock bike It won’t perform well witch is interesting that that’s what you get with stock ignition on pre 95 Intruders.

[Herb]

I can tell you, from experience that there is a huge difference in performance between the pre 95 and the newer bikes.

When I bought my 99 I still had the 87. There is a section of freeway about 3 miles from the house I was living in, that has a 4% grade for about a mile. My son and I took the bikes out and ran them side by side with 30 to 90 mph roll-ons. The 87, with 154,000 miles on it, out ran the 99, with 8800 miles, by, at least 4 lengths, no matter rider or method used. In a straight high gear roll on the 87 was 6+ lengths at 90.

[sky02]

One thing is that ignition, other is the noise and pollution standards. Newer ones have more restrictive exhaust and generally leaner jetting on carbs. In service manual at the end you have the specs difference year by year and according to designated country.

Good that I have 4 gear US ‘93 version

But the question here is about the performance of kn, jet kits and dyna 3000

[Designer]

One thing is that ignition, other is the noise and pollution standards. Newer ones have more restrictive exhaust and generally leaner jetting on carbs. In service manual at the end you have the specs difference year by year and according to designated country.
Good that I have 4 gear US ‘93 version

But the question here is about the performance of kn, jet kits and dyna 3000

I had a 4 Speeder too,....'96....last year for that.

I can say that after installing these three Bad Boyzzz in my '96 (which I made into a 5 Speeder with 1500 5th Gear and both Primary Gears) it makes a terrific difference....across the whole RPM range.

The K&N Pods also allowed me to expand Tank Capacity,..... and make the Rear Air Box into a "Glove Box"..

[thedaydreamer]

From everything I have read the 4 speed older school intruders had more balls, more HP and different aggressive cams

I spoke with Dyna and factory pro today and were great folks

I am leaning towards this

Designer clutch springs
Factory pro kit
Dyna 3000
K&N Drop in filters

The carbs on this bike are kind of a PITA, expecially the rear airbox and getting in on right
Im hoping I can make some good guesses at jeting and get lucky and get it right without taking it apart 20x LOL

[sky02]

From everything I have read the 4 speed older school intruders had more balls, more HP and different aggressive cams


The carbs on this bike are kind of a PITA, expecially the rear airbox and getting in on right
Im hoping I can make some good guesses at jeting and get lucky and get it right without taking it apart 20x LOL

I'vs read that article on motorcycle cruiser too but if I remember correctly when I checked the parts numbers are the same. The only difference in the part number is in the carbs, exhaust, cdi. And of course gearing but 1-3 are the same so you can feel the difference only on highway.

You will take it apart a few times and as we say here that is a small beer, the big problem is that you will have to resync carbs each time you take them out to change jet. And you will have one hour break between each test run so the butt dyno wont be accurate.

[thedaydreamer]

DO you think with this vs1400 everytime you make a jetting change or anything to the carb you have to resync? its that with all dual carb bike or just something funky with this one, the 1400 is fickle for sure and small changes to the high speed sync make big differences in performance,,,,

[Herb]

DO you think with this vs1400 everytime you make a jetting change or anything to the carb you have to resync? its that with all dual carb bike or just something funky with this one, the 1400 is fickle for sure and small changes to the high speed sync make big differences in performance,,,,

Yep, pretty much everytime you make a change to the carbs and exhaust you need to, at least, check the sync.

I went to Classic II's from stock and the sync was way off. When I went back to the stock, it was again way off...

[thedaydreamer]

Yea, this bike it seems is very touchy,,,so far I have the factory pro stage one pilots in, fac pro needles on 3rd position, K&N filters in, and the dynatech 3000,,,,I tried so far both curve 3 and 4, 4 seems better, bike is pulling harder at higher speeds,,AND it seems the dyna has ironed out all low rpm surging this bike suffered from at like 30 and 40mph,,,what about the dyna do you think solved the issue and made this bike smoother,,,just timig?,,have you played with the dyna?

[Herb]

My bike is stock ignition and carbs except that I did drill out the vacuum hole on the slides. Never had an issue with surging excep in the 20-25 range in 3rd gear. Drop it to second and the issue goes away.

[sky02]

DO you think with this vs1400 everytime you make a jetting change or anything to the carb you have to resync? its that with all dual carb bike or just something funky with this one, the 1400 is fickle for sure and small changes to the high speed sync make big differences in performance,,,,

Every time you lift the tank there is a chance of high speed resync. Every time you move the carbs (like to change the jets) you must resync high speed and there is a chance of low speed resync. It's because of those damn cables runing throug the whole length of tank.

Usually multicarb bikes have them connected like one body the dont lose the sync.

[hillsy v2]

Usually multicarb bikes have them connected like one body the dont lose the sync.

I can guarantee you even rack mounted carbs will go out of sync if you remove them from the bike. Usually not as bad as cable linked but they still go out of sync.

[sky02]

You’re right, i was thinking about general messing around the carbs still mounted on a bike.

[thedaydreamer]

One thing I have noticed with this Intruder is that it is very touchy and slight adjustments to the cables make big differences

Questions

When doing the sync isnt it SYNC the butterflys to open at the same time?,,,what exactly is the low speed adjusting on the butterfly that the high speed is not? OR how do the adjustments differ?

WOuld you resync if you were merely adjusting the idle stop screw or the mixture screws?

Again, in syncing this bike MANY times I can be very OCD about the 1k idle and 2k highspeed idle and try to get them perfect, you can really feel it in the bike when you do

This week I should have he cobra drags in and then do a final LOL tune,,,,I can already see how my upgrades so far have effecting this bike, I think the DYna 3000 is really key, its a nice piece of hardware

[sky02]

When doing the sync isnt it SYNC the butterflys to open at the same time?,,,what exactly is the low speed adjusting on the butterfly that the high speed is not? OR how do the adjustments differ?

WOuld you resync if you were merely adjusting the idle stop screw or the mixture screws?

High speed sync on throttle cables is for butterflies to open at the same rate. Idle speed sync is to have the same amount of air entering the carbs at the beginning. Those are different types of carbs with different air boxes thats why you have two types of sync.
Mixture screw tuning don’t mess the sync. Idle speed change can only be done during low speed sync. By changing it you set up the idle speed on rear carb, in theory it should be transferred through the cable to front carb but it is not 1:1, the rear reacts more. I set up idle speed to 1000rpms during sync then after lowering the tank you can fine tune the low speed sync with the idle speed knob. Idle speed should be 950-1050 so you can make small correction.

It is easier to just lift the rear of the tank:

I also dont check the high speed sync on lifted tank, when you lower it it press on throttle cable and changes the sync. After setting the idle sync I lower the tank to its normal position and check the high speed sync. If the front cylinders have bigger vacuum than rear it means that it opens slower and you have to slightly “elongate” the cable to open it more. Lift the tank and make 1/4-1/2 turn, lower the tank and check again.