Choke/compression release knob

[mikebet45]

I'm not exactly new to wrenching, having done one frame-up restoration (Yamaha RD350) and a few V-Strom and KTM valve jobs (the hated shim-under-bucket kind) but this 1400 has systems I've never seen before and have me pretty much baffled. When I turn the choke/release knob I can't detect 1) any effect -- although it still starts, rather cold-heartedly; and 2) there is no discernable movement of the linkage on the right side of the engine. So it seems as if nothing is happening. I am also confused about the compression release which looks like it is cable actuated like the ones I used to put on my dirt bikes but claims to have a solenoid which I always took to be electrically operated. The diagram in the Suzuki manual is essentially useless to explain anything except to illustrate the linkage which does not move at all when I turn the knob. Clearly I have no idea what's going on here. I'd be grateful for any insight as to how these two systems relate to that little choke knob. If I could convert both the choke and compression release to simple and separate systems I'd gladly do that. This overly complex arrangement reminds me of my late and very unlamented BMW R1150GS.

[sgtcall]

It's actually an enricher not a choke. Either way I don't have the manual or pictures but trace out the cable to the other side of carbs. If I remember correctly there is a brass connection there that sometimes slips out of place you can see it move when you turn the enricher. Put it back in the correct place and the entire mechanism will move together.

Also you can pull the enricher knob off and turn it slightly to tighten the cable a bit. This will help if the cable has stretched over time.

I am sure someone else can better explain and spot the correct parts.

[Herb]

There is no outside linkage. The cable goes to a splitter and then to each carb where it moves a valve that opens a passageway in the carb to allow more fuel in during cold starts. I have had the cable come loose inside the handle assembly and I had a cable that was sticky and didn't want to let the valve close. It is possible to have the valve stick open.

Once you open the trottle past idle it actually stops pulling the extra fuel through the carb.

Check the carb section of the book and you will find an explanation of the complete workings.

You should feel resistance when you turn the knob if not, either the cable is broken, loose or sticking in the choke on position.

[vintruder]

If you need a replacement cable, I have one I bought when I was rebuilding my bike that I did not end up needing. It is the complete cables from the knob to & including the splitter and then the outputs that get attached at each carb. Let me know if interested, it's just sitting in my spare parts box.

[mikebet45]

Thanks for the offer, Vintruder, and to Herb and SgtCall as well for the responses, but at this point I'm so lost I don't know what I need nor do I understand even how these linkages interact. The factory manual which I have downloaded is not very helpful. Here's what I have observed: the (choke/enricher?) knob on the left side has a cable that crosses over and runs down the side of the bike into hidden recesses and I am guessing that it helps feed the starter jet in the rear carb. It may be working properly since the bike does start, albeit reluctantly when cold. In the meantime there is a set of linkages on both the left and right sides (left side on the rear cylinder, right side on the front cylinder) which are interconnected and identified in the manual as the compression release mechanism.The cable to the lower part of the hinged arm on the right side is apparently the main control cable for all, but it also disappears back into the visually obstructed innards. I have lubed all cables and all three move freely when I manually move the lever arm, but nothing that I can see or do causes the lower cable, right side, to do anything. I'm sure it has a role in compression release since the manual says so, but I'll be damned if I understand why there is so much cabling and moving parts to something as simple as a release valve that opens only momentarily. Sorry to be such a dummy, but this bike has stuff I've never seen before.

[hillsy v2]

....It may be working properly since the bike does start, albeit reluctantly when cold....

I'm going to focus on this because I don't own a 1400 and can't comment on the cable layouts.

How is the starting reluctant? Is it cranking over fine but hesitant to fire?....or does it struggle to turn over?

The first scenario points to the choke / enrichment circuit - the second to the decomp.

[Herb]

The choke is not in any way connected to the compression release.
The choke cable goes to a splitter then to a valve on each carb.

The choke and compression release are two different systems.

I am not at home until Tuesday so I don't have access to my manual but the manual has an explanation of each system.

[mikebet45]

Was out of town for Thanksgiving with family, so only now I have a follow-up question: when and how is that compression release linkage activated? I don't see any movement at all even when the starter motor is turning, and isn't that when compression release should kick in? The bike starts after a few tries even when quite cold -- no problem at all when the weather is reasonable -- so maybe I shouldn't even worry about it. I won't be riding much this winter anyway.

[ncdave]

I recently bought a 1400 and have been digging into it. I wondered similar when I saw the linkage on the right side of the front cylinder. I found a solenoid which is in the area in front of the battery down below the rear carb. it appears to have an electrical connection which I assume activates the solenoid. I just don't know under what circumstances.

[sgtcall]

Intruders are generally hard to start in the cold but if it is running right it will start. Try this, put it in gear and release the clutch then rock it back and forth a few times. Then put it in neutral, with the clutch still out turn the key on and press the starter, you will hear the fuel pump run to prime the carbs. Then put it in neutral and start it like normal. It seemed to work for me.

Please note: if you have the clutch switch by passed don't try to prime the carbs.

[Herb]

The compression release is controlled by the ignition box. It is activated for a set amount of time as the start button is pressed. The amount of time it operates is very short, only long enough for the starter to get the engine spinning.
The cable from the seloniod goes to the front cylinder linkage and a second cable runs from there to the left side of the rear cylinder.

There is a good explaination of the operation of the system in the shop manual. It includes adjustment instructions.

[mikebet45]

Intruders are generally hard to start in the cold but if it is running right it will start. Try this, put it in gear and release the clutch then rock it back and forth a few times. Then put it in neutral, with the clutch still out turn the key on and press the starter, you will hear the fuel pump run to prime the carbs. Then put it in neutral and start it like normal. It seemed to work for me.

Please note: if you have the clutch switch by passed don't try to prime the carbs.

I notice that the previous owner had bypassed the clutch switch. I didn't really pay any attention to it because by force of habit I always pull in the clutch lever when starting. But could that have something to do with the failure of the solenoid to activate the compression release mechanism?

[sgtcall]

Well it does prevent you from priming the carbs and this is a bigger issue in the cold. I am not sure if it has anything to do with the compression release .

[Herb]

No, it has nothing to do with the compression release.

Are you sure the compression release isn't working????

If you look down at the top of the front cylinder when you try to start the bike you can see the linkage for the compression release move just as you hit the start button. It only kicks in for a very short time and then drops out. The linkage on the rear cylinder can't be observed because it is all under the left side cover over the spark plug.

The manual has an adjustment procedure for the linkage.

It is possible that the cables are frozen preventing the linkage from moving.

BTW, the solenoid is controlled by a seprate control box. A good explaination about how it works and testing of it is on pg 7-14 of the manual. The cable adjustment instructions are on pg 2-8.

[mikebet45]

It must be a faulty solenoid then. The linkage doesn't move at all when I push the starter button, but I can move the arms on both sides manually so I don't think the cables are frozen. And I did take off the one that crosses from right to left side of the engine and cleaned and lubed it so that it slides freely and moves the arm on the left side. Gap is adjusted on the right side per the Suzuki factory manual, which is pretty sparse on details. Apparently the one you guys are using has better explanations. Getting to the solenoid looks like it will be a nasty job and since it starts grudgingly but OK in the cold garage I don't think I'll mess with it for now. Thanks for all the good info.

[Herb]

It must be a faulty solenoid then. The linkage doesn't move at all when I push the starter button, but I can move the arms on both sides manually so I don't think the cables are frozen. And I did take off the one that crosses from right to left side of the engine and cleaned and lubed it so that it slides freely and moves the arm on the left side. Gap is adjusted on the right side per the Suzuki factory manual, which is pretty sparse on details. Apparently the one you guys are using has better explanations. Getting to the solenoid looks like it will be a nasty job and since it starts grudgingly but OK in the cold garage I don't think I'll mess with it for now. Thanks for all the good info.

My 87 had a problem with the solenoid getting gunked up and wouldn't move. I had to remove the right side rear motor mount to get the thing out. Cleaned and replaced it and it worked fine for a few more years until I sold the bike.

[mikebet45]

A further word on my compression release saga. Noting that the release mechanism and linkage does not move at all when the start button is pushed I thought tht might be the cause of hard starting when the engine is cold -- as in winter-in-the-garage cold. So I tried activating the linkage by hand while starting -- and there was no difference at all, not in starting or even in the speed of the starter motor cranking. Nada. So maybe the solenoid is bad or gunked up, but if my fingers moving the cables don't do anything with respect to the compression release I don't see how the solenoid can either. Anyway, that's where things stand now. Like I said before it starts easily in warm weather and with 8-10 starter tries when cold, so I can live with it. I'm not even sure why this bike has a compression release since neither a previous Harley Electra Glide or Kawasaki 1600 Vulcan v-twin needed it.