Removing end cap nuts on handlebars

[Rockdoc]

Good morning all y'all,

Since it's winter, even in SE Arizona, I've been working on my 2002 VS1400 Intruder to improve my riding experience. Since I'm more used to classic style handlebars, such as were used on a Matchless, Norton, and a Yamaha Brit knock-off that I've owned over the years, I decided to mount the classic style handlebars on my Intruder. My question is, how do I remove the threaded nuts inside the original bars that held the end caps in place? I'd like to use the end caps with my new handlebars.

I haven't ridden the bike with the new bars yet, I managed to break the throttle handle while taking it off and am currently waiting on delivery of a new one (it broke so easily that after 21 years it may have been ready for replacement anyhow).

Nonetheless, after just sitting on the bike and gripping the new classic handlebars it already feels much better.

Steve

PS at one time I put clip-on handlebars on my Norton and did it ever make the handling feel better going down curvy winding roads. Unfortunately, it was a bit uncomfortable just running around town so I eventually went back to the classic bars.

[navigator]

The end caps are weights and an anti vibration device consisting of washers, spacers, and rubber bushings which expand to grab the inside of the bar when tightened.
The proper way to remove them is to loosen the screw enough to where it is loose and is no longer putting pressure on the rubber bushings, then pulling the whole assembly out of the handlebar.
If you removed the screw and pulled part of the assembly out, leaving the deepest bushing and nut in the bar....I'm afraid you are at the point of no return.
If the nut hasn't fallen out of the innermost bushing, you may be able to carefully insert the screw into it and retrieve it. If the nut has fallen out and is rattling around, you will have to fashion some sort of hook to remove the bushing....or buy new parts.

https://www.partsoutlaw.com/oemparts/a/ ... y-k1-k2-k3

[Herb]

You also might try putting some PB Blaster or WD 40 in to help the rubber bushing slide out.

[Rockdoc]

Good morning Navigator and thank you for your help with this problem I made for myself. As it was I got lucky, on one side the nut was still stuck to the rubber "thing" on the inside of the bar. I was able to carefully screw the phillips bolt back through the rubber thing into the nut and pull it out. I then shook the bar and out came the other nut confirming that the other side was going to be a bit harder. Nonetheless, I screwed the bolt all the ways through the rubber thing and next put small drops of light oil in several spots between the rubber thing and the inner wall of the handlebar, being careful not to get oil on the bolt shaft. Finally, when I pulled it out I made sure to put side pressure on the bolt shaft so the threads would want to drag on the rubber thing. I gave it a careful slow pull and out it all came.

BTW, if that hadn't worked I was prepared to screw a long lag bolt into the rubber thing to pull it out. In addition, I'm a black powder shooter so if all else failed a very small black powder charge (comparable to a large fire cracker) would've probably blown the rubber thing out (into a pile of rags to catch it). While that would've been fun I'm glad it didn't come to that.

Steve

[Designer]

Great news that you got it out.

I once had a similar situation with my Riding Buddies Bar End Weights when we were swapping out his Bars.

I used some Oil (like Herb suggested) and then used Air Pressure to blow it out....and OUT IT CAME too!

Let us see you Finished Project.

[navigator]

In addition, I'm a black powder shooter so if all else failed a very small black powder charge (comparable to a large fire cracker) would've probably blown the rubber thing out (into a pile of rags to catch it). While that would've been fun I'm glad it didn't come to that.

Steve

I like the way you think....that'll do it.

[Rockdoc]

Navigator, many things could've blown that breach/chamber out such as too much powder, or loading an equivalent amount of smokeless powder to black powder (that'll sure do it!), an obstruction in the muzzle usually blows or ring bulges the muzzle, however an obstruction down by the chamber could've blown out the breach/chamber like that. Do you know the details as to why the breach/chamber blew out.

BTW years ago I had an old 10 gauge muzzle loading percussion SXS shotgun. Over the years previous owners had honed out the barrels to remove corrosion so many times that both barrels were paper thin at the muzzle. I decided to field test it for shooting. I removed the barrels, drilled the center of the old beat-to-hell percussion nipples so I could put fuses down through them. I decided, for safety sake to use 12 gauge loads in the gun, the standard being 3 drams black powder to 1-1/8 ounces of shot. To be assure the barrels were safe, even if I screwed up in the field, I put 6 drams of black powder in each barrel (easy to do with a SXS in the field). I strapped the barrels to a sawhorse and lit them off one at a time (I ducked behind a large tree after I lit each one). The kabooms was deafening! However, both barrels passed the test, even at the paper thin muzzles! It's experiences like this that make me wonder why that breach/chamber failed.

Steve

[Rockdoc]

Here's my new bars I hope the photo posts

Steve

[navigator]

No idea on that weapon, I just googled a stock photo.
Yup, Do NOT mistake smokeless powder for black!!!
Glad you got the bits out of your old bars.