Intruders-Alert

FallenAngel wrote: ↑

Tue Aug 08, 2023 2:50 pm

Bajatcr7 wrote: ↑

Tue Aug 08, 2023 2:36 pm

Thx,
Long term the goal may be dynatek. For now I was hoping to find something at 25% that cost to test with. For 400$ if I'm patient enough I can probably find a parts bike.

After some searching I was able to locate CDI's for the 800's under 100 bucks but nothing for the 1400's except for the Dynatech.

You did get a very nice looking bike though

Keep us posted

Thx, will do.

sgtcall wrote: ↑

Tue Aug 08, 2023 4:59 pm

I don't know if there is anything left but you could try here.
viewtopic.php?f=20&t=13413

Thx for the link. He's all out.

Hey everyone,
I know it's been a while. As I said my free time is super limited.
Anyway back at it. I finally got the CDI for the bike and between that and cleaning the carbs I got it to start so I'm willing to keep going for the time being.
After getting it started the rear carb is dumping gasoline from somewhere. I want to buy a rebuild kit before pulling it out again in case it's more than me just knocking the float out of specs. The only ones I see say 800 and 1400, but I thought they had different carbs. Does anyone have a link to a decent but low cost rebuild kit that would work for a 95 VS1400?

Bajatcr7 wrote: ↑

Sun Dec 03, 2023 11:35 am

Does anyone have a link to a decent but low cost rebuild kit that would work for a 95 VS1400?

Have you tried Suzuki?

You don't need all the jets, etc they throw in those rebuild kits - the most you will need is the float valve and seat plus the oring, and the oring for the idle mixture screw. And maybe the float bowl gasket if it's damaged. All the existing jets just need a clean - they don't need replacing.

Thanks Hillsy.

It's been a while but I finally got back to working on the bike a bit. I did end up rebuilding the rear carb and cleaned the front again. I'm thinking the fuel pump must have been filled with gunk as the rear was fully clogged again.
Anyway the bike is up and running, not sure if I can post videos in here or not?
Next set of questions. I have a severe voltage drop on both the positive and negative main cables. Has anyone made any replacements? If so what gauge wire did you use? As always thanks in advance.

I believe the stock cables are 8 gauge. I haven’t had to replace any for some time but when I did I took my cable to my local auto shop and they had a rack of cables all different lengths. He's closed now so I guess I'll have to start making them if the need arises.

If you are working on this I'd suggest you run a 2nd ground cable directly to the frame as well as the engine. Quite often the ground between the engine and frame can diminish over the years which can lead to all kinds of strange running symptoms.

Also sgt will be along soon to suggest star washers

Will do. Thanks Hillsy.

hillsy v2 wrote: ↑

Thu Mar 14, 2024 4:40 pm

I believe the stock cables are 8 gauge. I haven’t had to replace any for some time but when I did I took my cable to my local auto shop and they had a rack of cables all different lengths. He's closed now so I guess I'll have to start making them if the need arises.

If you are working on this I'd suggest you run a 2nd ground cable directly to the frame as well as the engine. Quite often the ground between the engine and frame can diminish over the years which can lead to all kinds of strange running symptoms.

Also sgt will be along soon to suggest star washers

I am certain that Intruders run better on star washers. COME ON! Someone has to keep that going!

But really, I had the issue of the battery cables vibrating loose on my Intruder and the battery was a PIA to get to. The Star Washers fixed it. In some cases the cable would feel okay when I just tried to move it with my hand but if I put a wrench on it I would get a full turn.

sgtcall wrote: ↑

Thu Mar 14, 2024 5:05 pm

hillsy v2 wrote: ↑

Thu Mar 14, 2024 4:40 pm

I believe the stock cables are 8 gauge. I haven’t had to replace any for some time but when I did I took my cable to my local auto shop and they had a rack of cables all different lengths. He's closed now so I guess I'll have to start making them if the need arises.

If you are working on this I'd suggest you run a 2nd ground cable directly to the frame as well as the engine. Quite often the ground between the engine and frame can diminish over the years which can lead to all kinds of strange running symptoms.

Also sgt will be along soon to suggest star washers

I am certain that Intruders run better on star washers. COME ON! Someone has to keep that going!

But really, I had the issue of the battery cables vibrating loose on my Intruder and the battery was a PIA to get to. The Star Washers fixed it. In some cases the cable would feel okay when I just tried to move it with my hand but if I put a wrench on it I would get a full turn.

It's a great idea - especially if the battery is in a crap place for access.

hillsy v2 wrote: ↑

Thu Mar 14, 2024 6:50 pm

It's a great idea - especially if the battery is in a crap place for access.

I even put star washers on my Triumph the fist week I bought it. Just in case.

Ahhh, but which one?

The most common type of lock washer is a helical lock washer, also known as a split washer. It looks like a ring with two uneven ends offset from one another. These ends bite into the fastener, keeping it from turning.

A common alternative to helical washers are internal-tooth washers. As the name suggests, these washers have teeth on the inside of the rings, which make contact with the fastener near the head and hold it in place.

Another design is the external-tooth washer, which has its teeth on the outside of the ring. Whereas internal-teeth washers are better suited with fasteners with small heads, external-ring ones are better suited to fasteners with large heads.

For the battery bolts my choice is internal...JMO

navigator wrote: ↑

Fri Mar 15, 2024 7:13 am

Ahhh, but which one?

For the battery bolts my choice is internal...JMO

I like the external ones better. They seem to have a better grip as long as you have the right size for the bolt.

Is this becoming an oil thread?
To each their own my friend.
One of each???

navigator wrote: ↑

Fri Mar 15, 2024 1:49 pm

Is this becoming an oil thread?
To each their own my friend.
One of each???

Biggest question is where to put the star washer - under the bolt head or under the connector?

hillsy v2 wrote: ↑

Fri Mar 15, 2024 2:15 pm

Biggest question is where to put the star washer - under the bolt head or under the connector?

Both, of course.

sgtcall wrote: ↑

Fri Mar 15, 2024 4:37 pm

hillsy v2 wrote: ↑

Fri Mar 15, 2024 2:15 pm

Biggest question is where to put the star washer - under the bolt head or under the connector?

Both, of course.

That would work!

I've had my first 1400 ( now chopped) since 1998. And serving the Ground connection is pretty easy. Not only does that ensure The Best Starting,...but also takes care of the grounding of the Whole Bike in Aces. Two Birds With One Stone! No need for another Ground Wire.

If there is a Wiring Mod worth doing ...it's this one;
https://www.moccsplace.com/images/charg ... grades.pdf

As Mocc says,...helps the Charging System to "See" the Battery better.

The 1500 is a different beast. They seem to suffer more with marginal charging issues. Personally I think it was because the RR was hidden under the fake primary cover and would cook quicker. I relocated mine to in front of the left running board which was closer to the battery. Worked great after that and got a lot of cool air.

Thanks guys. Yeah this isn't my first go around with an intruder so I know all about the star washers from the old site. The voltage drop is definitely in the cables and not from loose connections. Once I have the new cables in place they'll be getting some stars added on though lol.