Clutch disc mounted on thicker then the original ones.

[Designer]

Right click on the image and click on open image in new tab. They come right up.

I see that now. Thanks, Herb.

At first, they looked like one of "misfires" when posting images on the Board. Sometimes akin to what I have seen on other Threads on the Chit Chat Board.

[Juan71]

push Rod

These are links to the images, not image codes.

Here are the image codes....

thank you Hillsy V2
however i try to put it with img code and link code. tje problem i think was in the address i use. it was the short er without the file name and extention.

[Juan71]

This are the refs engraved on the discs teeth mounted on all these years on the bike.
are this the suzuki vs 1400 clutch discs?
Someone con confirm me this?
Please

[Juan71]

tickness of the New EBC Clutch Discs



FIRST DISC




REST OF THE DISCS

Suzuki Official sizes:
21442-37401-000 --- 3.5 mm.
21441-12D01-000 --- 2.8 mm.

seems that the tickness of the EBC discs are the same of original ones.

[Juan71]

Right click on the image and click on open image in new tab. They come right up.

Thanks Herb
now i know how to put the correct address of the image in the image code. using the bbcode

[Juan71]

This the mounted ones

[Designer]

Hey Gianni! any Update on your problem?

[Juan71]

Hey Gianni! any Update on your problem?

Hi Ed, still no update, i wrote to te mechanic but still haven't reply.
seems they are waiting for the clutch retainer.
I will inform here as soon as i know any News.

[mikebet45]

i can tell you that I had a lot of trouble when I put new a new clutch in mine. It turns out that the first kit I bought fit perfectly but the clutch would not release because the fiber discs were too thick. I got another kit with thinner discs and it now works, although still a little hard to shift into neutral when the bike is stopped. If I had it to do over I would have used a few of the old discs along with new ones to get the proper thickness of the entire pack. I suppose OEM discs would work without problem, but I was too cheap and bought aftermarket products. You may have to experiment with different disc combinations (old and new) to get the right overall thickness.

[hillsy v2]

i can tell you that I had a lot of trouble when I put new a new clutch in mine. It turns out that the first kit I bought fit perfectly but the clutch would not release because the fiber discs were too thick. I got another kit with thinner discs and it now works, although still a little hard to shift into neutral when the bike is stopped. If I had it to do over I would have used a few of the old discs along with new ones to get the proper thickness of the entire pack. I suppose OEM discs would work without problem, but I was too cheap and bought aftermarket products. You may have to experiment with different disc combinations (old and new) to get the right overall thickness.

Thicker discs will mean the actuator rod will be too short - and the slave may not have enough travel to take up the gap.

Like the OP here it looks like someone used a different length rod to compensate - you could also use a ball bearing between the two rods to increase the length.

[Herb]

buy a set of oem discs and put designer springs on it and you will have well over 100,000 miles of troube free miles. only the hydrulic portion will give any trouble.

At 35K on my 99 I installed Designer's springs on my stock clutch. I had already put stock springs on it at 12K and 25K. The stock plates were at almost original thickness. When I put a used engine in at 180K I switched the plates and springs to it. I now have somewhere around 260K on the bike itself, that figures out to about 225K since I put Designer's springs in it and full mileage on the stock clutch. Never had a clutch issue after installing the springs.

The reason the mileage is a guesstamate is that I rode it for months with the odometer showing only the hundreds, every time it would get to 999 it would not rotate the thousands, I was riding round trip to work of 145 miles and riding for fun on weekends. I figure that my guess is pretty close, if anything it is below my guess.

BTW, I rode my 87 for 154K. Every 12-15K I installed new oem springs. At about 25K I put new disks in it and when compared to the old ones the thickness was almst identical to the old ones. I kicked myself for wasting money on the disks.

[Juan71]

buy a set of oem discs and put designer springs on it and you will have well over 100,000 miles of troube free miles. only the hydrulic portion will give any trouble.
.......

Hi everyone, the bike is still at the mechanic's. 2 weeks ago they called me to come and collect it but when I tried it it looked like a 400cc. I asked to fit the new EBC discs and the purchased disc pusher bar but the bike wasn't running well. I asked to redo the carburetor alignment because from the test it seemed non-existent. At the moment I have no news, I'm traveling and upon my return I will almost certainly have to take the motorbike to another mechanic. I don't think they are capable of solving the problem. It became a nightmare for me. I will keep you informed as soon as I have certain news.
P.S. Herb, the bike has had Designer springs already mounted for a few years. the only strange thing I noticed are the clutch discs (the ones that were mounted until now) of a greater thickness even if worn and the pusher bar cut by a centimeter (modification made by the old owner). Thank You for your reply.

[hillsy v2]

.....the only strange thing I noticed are the clutch discs (the ones that were mounted until now) of a greater thickness even if worn and the pusher bar cut by a centimeter (modification made by the old owner)...

That doesn't make sense. If the clutch plates are thicker then the pressure plate is further away from the slave cylinder - which means you would need a longer pushrod rather than a shorter one?

Did you ever have the bike running with the clutch working?

[Juan71]

.....the only strange thing I noticed are the clutch discs (the ones that were mounted until now) of a greater thickness even if worn and the pusher bar cut by a centimeter (modification made by the old owner)...

That doesn't make sense. If the clutch plates are thicker then the pressure plate is further away from the slave cylinder - which means you would need a longer pushrod rather than a shorter one?

Did you ever have the bike running with the clutch working?

Hi hillsy,
with that setup the bike was running like a charm all the times.