popping from exhaust front cylinder

[kidastra]

ok, good to know. So my popping has me stumped once again.
boot is ok, exhaust gasket still seems leak free, a/f screw is now too lean, making it richer returns the popping.
What is my next step? Does my a/f shed any light on my problem?

[Spitfire]

I wouldn't get to worked up over it being turned in to far... yet. You start at 2 or 2.5 turns open then turn in till it begins to run rough then back out till it runs rough then split the difference. If you could just count out so many turns and go there would be no reason to tune it. It isn't hard but you really have to pay attention to catch when the bike begins to run rough. Some guys like to slow the idle down a little to make it easier to pick up on when you reach either side. ;IDunno:

[kidastra]

I was just going by the popping, leaner caused no popping, richer caused more

[kidastra]

I was just going by the popping, leaner caused no popping, richer caused more

Everybike with a carb is like this. The popping is essentially the excess gas exploding. Standby... when I wake up fully and warm up to feel my fingers, I will post the A/F basics

see I was under the impression from other posts I read that the popping was from being too lean.
So if it is excess gas, why is leaning the front carb that much a bad idea?
next, where would this excess fuel need to be rectified? Could you explain how an air or vacuum leak would cause a rich scenario? assuming excess gas means too rich

thanks man

[kidastra]

plugs are new, as well as the battery,
I must have something causing the popping if leaning it removes it, I will reopen the carb and see

[kidastra]

i'm going by the guy who said i'm running to lean, i'd rather not open them lol

[MadCow]

started her up and she purred, until she warmed up, then the popping started again.

That SCREAMS a lean condition.

[kidastra]

i'm going by the guy who said i'm running to lean, i'd rather not open them lol

[emoji106]

Double check by following the steps I gave ya.

I did those steps and the popping is back. I don't know where to go from here

[kidastra]

started her up and she purred, until she warmed up, then the popping started again.

That SCREAMS a lean condition.

then why does leaning the a/f screw stop the popping?

[kidastra]

so where do I check next to stop the popping?

[MadCow]

so where do I check next to stop the popping?

There are 3 things that cause the popping you describe:

1. Air leaks in the junction of the header pipes and muffler.

2. Lean Carbs (which is my first guess here because you stated it only does it once it warms up...) Are you using the choke? Using the choke raises the fuel ratio..ie..no popping because it's running rich. One of your carbs is not synced with the other if you only hear it out of one cylinder.

3. Ignition issues..failing plug wires, failing ignition coil, switches or battery connections.

[MadCow]

Do another recording and let me hear it when you raise the rpm's up off idle by twisting the throttle...when it is idle (throttle closed) your using the pilot (idle) system and not the main jets.

[kidastra]

could a bad sync between carbs cause my problem, I'll get you a recording this week. Bike is at my storage.

[MadCow]

could a bad sync between carbs cause my problem, I'll get you a recording this week. Bike is at my storage.

Yes...you really should sync them before messing with the A/F ratio.

[MadCow]

I also think there is some confusion about the meaning of words.

Leaning the carb means you are decreasing the amount of fuel it gets and increasing the air. A carb that is too lean (starving for fuel) can cause popping...not the other way around. This overly lean idle circuit can cause popping, which is why I want to hear the bike off idle.

For gasoline engines, the stoichiometric, A/F ratio is 14.7:1 That's 14.7 parts AIR to 1 part fuel.

15.5:1 = Very Lean, lots of air.
14.7:1 = Stoichiometric <-- the correct amount of air and fuel to produce a chemically complete combustion event.
13.1:1 = Slightly Rich
12.0:1 = Rich (very rich...has more fuel)

In naturally aspirated gassers, (no turbos, etc) they produce maximum power just slightly rich of stoichiometric...

For our 1400's, we like to see around 13.1-13.5 AF ratio to keep exhaust gas temps low...maybe even a little higher without also taking a major hit on fuel economy...Suzuki leans them out by default from factory which raises the exhaust gas temps to pass EPA rules (cleaner exhaust)...and this is very bad for the longevity of our bikes. They will run hot all the time. When we put high flowing exhaust and intake systems on our bikes..we make that condition worse....therefore we mess with the AF screws and mix a little bit more fuel into the ratio.

If one cylinder is popping, and you have ruled out exhaust manifold leaks and you have ruled out elecrtrical issues...I promise you that one of those carbs is leaned out too much and they are not in sync.

[MadCow]

started her up and she purred, until she warmed up, then the popping started again.

That SCREAMS a lean condition.

then why does leaning the a/f screw stop the popping?

because when you back out of the A/f screw....your enriching it, not leaning it....ergo...popping stops.

[kidastra]

started her up and she purred, until she warmed up, then the popping started again.

That SCREAMS a lean condition.

then why does leaning the a/f screw stop the popping?

because when you back out of the A/f screw....your enriching it, not leaning it....ergo...popping stops.

ok I'm following, except I'm turning the screw right, which I thought was leaning.
I have a video showing me turning the screw. let me upload it

[kidastra]

[youtube][/youtube]

[MadCow]

[youtube][/youtube]

I'd sync your carbs and do that over.

[MadCow]

Maybe I have it backwards...maybe turning to the right is enriching? Either way, that popping is from being too lean.