Intruders-Alert

Hey guys, been a while. I'm getting ready to sell my 1400 but it's been stored a while and I'm having trouble getting it started. It looks like there's no spark. I did do a spark test and could not see a spark although I'll repeat the test when it's dark. At any rate, here's what I've looked at so far:

Checked coils with an analog meter primary and secondary and everything's withing limits
Checked Rectifier/regulator and all values are in range

Removed ignitor to do those tests as well but my igniter has 2 blocks of terminals, 4 and 8. The book shows 4 and 6 so I wasn't sure how to go about testing based on the chart.

Any thoughts?

Don

There's no real way to be sure it's the igniter without a special Suzuki tool, which is no longer in production. I suppose a good used unit would be the easiest test, but make sure you test the pickup coils before assuming it's the igniter.

enforcer wrote:There's no real way to be sure it's the igniter without a special Suzuki tool, which is no longer in production. I suppose a good used unit would be the easiest test, but make sure you test the pickup coils before assuming it's the igniter.

Ok, thanks. I'll check that next time I'm at it.

Don

98VS1400 wrote:The battery.

Batteries brand new and fully charged.

Are you sure that both cylinders have no spark?

I had the ground wire on the ignitor box break at the back of the connector. It was broken inside the insulation and the bike would run until I put the seat on, then it would die. Check that all of the wires and connectors in the system are in good shape.

Make sure the coils are getting power to them. One wire controls the power to both coils. Check all connectors for corrosion.

Well, just checked the pickup coils and they check out fine, that's good news for sure .

Now just recharging the battery. I'll check power to the coils as well.

Will update later.

Don

Hey everyone. So here's where I'm at. I tested the pickup coils today and they were fine. I also checked for voltage at the coils. With the key on I measured about 10V at the coil. I repeated the spark test just now since it's dark and easier to see. I could not see a spark on either side.

At this point I'm not sure what to try next. I may just have to bite the bullet and take it in.

Any other thoughts?

Don

CPIntruder wrote:Hey everyone. So here's where I'm at. I tested the pickup coils today and they were fine. I also checked for voltage at the coils. With the key on I measured about 10V at the coil. I repeated the spark test just now since it's dark and easier to see. I could not see a spark on either side.

At this point I'm not sure what to try next. I may just have to bite the bullet and take it in.

Any other thoughts?

Don

Rather than pay garage fees for a bike you're just going to sell, check with BRONX INTRUDER for an igniter. They're year range specific, but he may be able to get you one cheaper than a garage would charge to figure it out it was what you knew it was all along. There's always eBay as well.

If you're lucky, you can find a place that rebuilds then near you. It usually only cost about $100 if you can find one. Could be the plugs or the coils still, but it's rare they both go out at the same time. You could always throw a new set of plugs in, it's cheap and may correct it. Worth a shot.

So, I have an update on this issue. I was speaking with a buddy who lives in another city. I mentioned that I was only seeing about 10V at the coil but 12 or a bit more at the battery. He suggested I try running a lead from the battery to the hot side of one of the coils with an alligator clip. I did this and repeated the spark test. I got spark. So, now I need to figure out where I'm losing power. I'l admit I'm not great at troubleshooting electrical. Here's what I have checked so far:

Full power at the fuse box
Full power at the positive lead of the started relay which is the next power point
10 V at the coils
10 V at the fuel pump relay
10 V at the decomp relay

Not sure where else to go from here. Any ideas on how I can best diagnose this issue?

Thanks

Don

Check and clean all connections. A dirty connection can cause resistance and loss of power.

CPIntruder wrote:So, I have an update on this issue. I was speaking with a buddy who lives in another city. I mentioned that I was only seeing about 10V at the coil but 12 or a bit more at the battery. He suggested I try running a lead from the battery to the hot side of one of the coils with an alligator clip. I did this and repeated the spark test. I got spark. So, now I need to figure out where I'm losing power. I'l admit I'm not great at troubleshooting electrical. Here's what I have checked so far:

Full power at the fuse box
Full power at the positive lead of the started relay which is the next power point
10 V at the coils
10 V at the fuel pump relay
10 V at the decomp relay

Not sure where else to go from here. Any ideas on how I can best diagnose this issue?

Thanks

Don

This would have been good to know earlier. Take Keith's suggestion about the battery. But don't rule out a short. And I'm not sure, but I believe everything you listed runs through the side stand relay. If the battery is good, it's time to get a wiring diagram and start tracing exactly where the drop is.

There is a common power cable coming from the shut down switch ( orange or orange/white) which powers both coils and connects to the ignitor box, from the ignitor box are 2 trigger cables one to each coil, they pass through a connector. The connector could be corroded or the power cable could be mashed and or broken. At least that is how things are on the 750.
Just a thought.

[emoji41]

Thanks for the ideas guys. I'll definitely do as suggested. I'll get back at this in a day or two. Too nice a day today, going riding.

I appreciate the help.

Talk to you all soon

Don

Hey everyone. Well, I finished doing a bunch of voltage drop tests on various sections of this circuit. So far I haven't been able to isolate the problem. I took the battery in for a load test and it's fine. My next step is to do resistance tests to see if I can find where there's high resistance somewhere. Btw, I have also noticed that when I crank the engine the headlight dims quite a bit as well.

Don

Remove the earth cable from the battery to frame, make up a new one with both crimped and soldered ends. Make sure you clean up the mounting point on the frame before installing the new one.
[emoji41]

Hi Don,

All of those places where you said there was 10 volts, more than likely are all fed by a common point. Start where you see 10 volts and then follow it towards the battery and eventually you should find a place where on the other side of something there's 12 volts again..that's the breakdown point.

Yo-

These guys are in California and say they can test/repair/replace your CDI.

http://www.regulatorrectifier.com/catal ... gniter-CDI

I am having a similar problem to yours in where I have no, or intermittent spark and have ruled out the pickup and ignition coils. They told me it's $55 to test the CDI. They will apply the $55 to repair/replacement if its bad.

They are sending me more information later today, I'll post whatever they send.

98VS1400 wrote:

Blackout wrote:These guys are in California and say they can test/repair/replace your CDI.

http://www.regulatorrectifier.com/catal ... gniter-CDI

I am having a similar problem to yours in where I have no, or intermittent spark and have ruled out the pickup and ignition coils. They told me it's $55 to test the CDI. They will apply the $55 to repair/replacement if its bad.

They are sending me more information later today, I'll post whatever they send.

Do as you wish, but you'd be much further ahead if you simply buy a Dyna3000. Just my thoughts...

+1, especially if the repair cost is anywhere near $300. The Dyna allows you to set the ignition curve you choose.

Still waiting to find out how much they charge, we'll see if/when they send the info.

I agree, a Dynatek would be the best way to go. But for the OP who was trying to get his bike going just to sell this may be the cheapest option.

Here's what they sent. With diagnostics ($55) and repair their price is nearly that of a new Dynatek CDI, so when I can afford it I'll be going the Dynatek route.

Hello,

If you would like to get your unit tested\repaired, please use the link below to order the testing service.
http://www.regulatorrectifier.com/catal ... epair-Test

We will email you a prepaid shipping label to send in your unit for testing repair
If your unit repairable its an additional $140 . There is a 1 year warranty on repairs, and we tell you what caused
the issue.

Best Regards
916-799-4327