Constant battery drain.

[Piltdown911]

Had battery and charging system checked, was told they are ok. I can have full charge on the battery and go out a couple of hours later and it doesn't have enough left to turn it over. Any ideas?

[Lechy]

Did you get the battery load tested?

[emoji41]

[WintrSol]

Did you remove the key in OFF, not P(ark)? Any additions to the electrical system?

[Piltdown911]

Did you get the battery load tested?

[emoji41]

Yes, they claimed it was good.

[Piltdown911]

Did you remove the key in OFF, not P(ark)? Any additions to the electrical system?

Yes, key was in off position, this problem has been dogging me since last fall.

[Lechy]

Did you get the battery load tested?

[emoji41]

Yes, they claimed it was good.

Don't trust them, they probably just checked the voltage. Take your battery to a reputable outlet and make sure they do the test.
If the charging system is indeed good, the only problems you may have is a duff battery or the + &/or - leads have de-natured. not a big deal to make up new leads, a suggestion would me to crimp and solder the connectors, also make sure that the battery terminals and connectors are shiny clean, if you are using the OEM battery fit star washers under the mounting bolts.
[emoji41]

[Lechy]

Damn, I'm forgetting the basics.
Did you check the electrolyte level in the battery?

[emoji41]

[geeintruder]

if its a normal electrolyte battery, check for specific gravity also. basics.

[jonnycando]

Specific Gravity is helpful...but these days a load test tells all that needs to be known.

[Piltdown911]

Did you get the battery load tested?

[emoji41]

Yes, they claimed it was good.

Don't trust them, they probably just checked the voltage. Take your battery to a reputable outlet and make sure they do the test.
If the charging system is indeed good, the only problems you may have is a duff battery or the + &/or - leads have de-natured. not a big deal to make up new leads, a suggestion would me to crimp and solder the connectors, also make sure that the battery terminals and connectors are shiny clean, if you are using the OEM battery fit star washers under the mounting bolts.
[emoji41]

Checked the level in the battery, I do believe I will get a second opinion on the battery condition. I replaced the connectors when the problem first appeared. I wonder if somehow the battery is good and the power isn't somehow being lost somewhere else such as a bad ignition switch or...

[WintrSol]

I have a hand-held CCA tester, and it said to replace the battery in my CB450 - should be ~200, measured ~90. So, I installed a MotoBatt, which tested at just under 200CCA. On a whim, I tested from the battery plus to the engine case, and read ~140. So, I unbolted the ground at the engine case, cleaned it and the contact area on the case with DeOxit and a toothbrush, then put it back together. Now it reads ~195 to the case, and the engine cranks a LOT better. Seems it hadn't been apart in many years, and just grew some contamination.

[Piltdown911]

I have a hand-held CCA tester, and it said to replace the battery in my CB450 - should be ~200, measured ~90. So, I installed a MotoBatt, which tested at just under 200CCA. On a whim, I tested from the battery plus to the engine case, and read ~140. So, I unbolted the ground at the engine case, cleaned it and the contact area on the case with DeOxit and a toothbrush, then put it back together. Now it reads ~195 to the case, and the engine cranks a LOT better. Seems it hadn't been apart in many years, and just grew some contamination.

Just plain sounds like a good idea - and cheap too, I will be doing that next.

[geeintruder]

I have a hand-held CCA tester, and it said to replace the battery in my CB450 - should be ~200, measured ~90. So, I installed a MotoBatt, which tested at just under 200CCA. On a whim, I tested from the battery plus to the engine case, and read ~140. So, I unbolted the ground at the engine case, cleaned it and the contact area on the case with DeOxit and a toothbrush, then put it back together. Now it reads ~195 to the case, and the engine cranks a LOT better. Seems it hadn't been apart in many years, and just grew some contamination.

hmm i think i should do this also, i mean by cleaning the contacts to the ground, but i also added one independent ground wire, directly from the negative terminal, via a 8 gauge cable to the body of the starter. it really does make a difference.

my next project would be a boostpack, hybrid with the battery YTX16, i hope the boostpack would really help in cranking power

[WintrSol]

It surely couldn't hurt to add an extra ground lead; with the amount of starting power the 1400 needs, every milliOhm in the ground path can make a big difference. My car (Pontiac Solstice) has several ground leads, and every one has to be in good condition, or odd behavior ensues.

[Piltdown911]

It surely couldn't hurt to add an extra ground lead; with the amount of starting power the 1400 needs, every milliOhm in the ground path can make a big difference. My car (Pontiac Solstice) has several ground leads, and every one has to be in good condition, or odd behavior ensues.

I will also check into doing that.

[geeintruder]

yes, and i just get an idea of making a bus bar that would distribute ground to important components of the bike.

[jonnycando]

bus bars are the best think since sliced bread!

[Plus1]

I had the same problem. I even went as far as a new battery. The one in it was older anyway. Just like the old one the battery tested fine but wouldn't hold a charge long. Wound up changing regulator and haven't had a problem since. It might not be your problem but it might be worth a shot. $34 bucks off eBay.

[geeintruder]

I had the same problem. I even went as far as a new battery. The one in it was older anyway. Just like the old one the battery tested fine but wouldn't hold a charge long. Wound up changing regulator and haven't had a problem since. It might not be your problem but it might be worth a shot. $34 bucks off eBay.

i have mine charging at 13.7V revved, 12.9V idle. but i have the same thing, battery wouldnt hold charge. if i didnt start my bike for a week, it would have enough power to turn the engine. might need to check my wirings. or else im gonna get a battery isolator.

[WintrSol]

I had the same problem. I even went as far as a new battery. The one in it was older anyway. Just like the old one the battery tested fine but wouldn't hold a charge long. Wound up changing regulator and haven't had a problem since. It might not be your problem but it might be worth a shot. $34 bucks off eBay.

i have mine charging at 13.7V revved, 12.9V idle. but i have the same thing, battery wouldnt hold charge. if i didnt start my bike for a week, it would have enough power to turn the engine. might need to check my wirings. or else im gonna get a battery isolator.

If you suspect a power drain, you can disconnect the negative battery terminal, then connect your multimeter between it and the cable, set to Amps; start at the highest setting, then go down. With the key off, it should read 0.0; if not, start pulling fuses. With all fuses out, if there is still current, look for pinched wires.