mini tach install

[buster711]

Have a ""DRAG mini tach" PN2211-0103/0102 and I am wondering if my 1400 is a "SINGLE FIRE" IGNITION - meaning it would need the "ADAPTER" mentioned in the instructions?
Thanks in advance for any and all help...

[enforcer]

Nope, dual fire or wasted spark as its often referred. You're good.

[Leckbass]

I put one on my bike as well, it was reading double the rpm at first, but adjusted the settings and all good.

[buster711]

WOW...Thanks sooo much for that GREAT news...Wish i had asked sooner so would have it on for the Fla. trip this Sat but such is life...Question Leckbass NOW is what are the"adjustments" you mentioned to get the reading correct?...
Also since I believe we have the same bike could you (or anyone for that matter) fill me in on where to hook it up?
Thanks again and bless ya for the help... "was lost but now I'm found" (well almost anyway LOL).

[Leckbass]

The mini tach I had simply wraps the lead wire around the spark plug wire. It was very simple to use, the not-so-great instructions told me to Press two or three buttons to push to change it from Dual fire to single fire. I don't remember what it was but it was very very simple.

[Leckbass]

Chances are you might not have to make any adjustments on the tach. I was using the tach on a lawn mower, three different outboard engines, an old vett and a Chevy 2.

Somebody was explaining this to me earlier on the board. The Intruder is a wasted spark ignition which means it will fire twice per Revolution anyway. That's why I don't think you will have to make any adjustments.

[buster711]

Thanks for the update...
This tach connects to a live power wire (perhaps in headlight bucket) and if wanting back-light to stay on (fine with me) another wire to same place...Then a ground wire to a good ground and lastly a wire to the negative lead of the ignition module....Does not sound like it would work that way but that is nearly EXACTLY what the instructions say...

[buster711]

Well got the tach on and was surprised to see it jump to 8k , stay there a sec or 2 then flop back & forth till I shut it off...Then expecting the worse I restarted and it went up slightly while burning off the "primed" fuel and then it went to 1k and stayed with only a tiny bump once in a while but THAT is pretty much how the engine is operating....
THEN came the problems....was ready to pull it in shed but when I put it in gear it stalled...would not start until I put it back into neutral and would stall every time I put it in gear....
Was thinking "neutral switch but was not doing ANYTHING near there....So let it sit a few minutes while double checking some of the connections...then fired it back up and it stayed on when put in gear but once in the shed i noticed the running lights and turn indicators were out...That got me thinking that since connecting to the wires that work the signals and running light perhaps it is just to much of a draw and it could explain the headlight being dimmer than before hooking up the aftermarket running lights....Also the Tach is much brighter than the speedometer as well...
Bugs were trying to devour me being drawn to the work lights so I had to shut down and try to get it right tomorrow...
At wits end and feeling foolish for taking on that project knowing I am heading to Florida on Saturday....
Sure hope its simple like maybe not enough slack to turn bar and it pulled a wire or two from connection...
Thanks for listening to my rambling and some help with a solution would be a life saver and VERY appreciated..
Buster

[Lechy]

If you are fitting a Chinese tach, here is the correct diagram.



The red and black are for the internal light, red to power black to separate earth.
Tach, green to earth, direct to frame is best, black (white tracer) to a power source, I used the + side of the coil, yellow/black to - side of coil.

Works just fine on both my Intruders but the tach's are not very accurate.
[emoji41]

[buster711]

my tach is working fine and the wires are red wire and yellow wire to power source, black to engine block and green to NEG side of coil...The problem is that the running lights are out along with turn signals ...So will go back into that hookup and change power source (red yellow wires) to the headlight bucket where there should be a unused source of power in there just waiting to be utilized for a purpose as this ...but thanks for your input anyway..