loss of all power

[buster711]

I was about one hour into a ride from SW Pennsylvania to Florida when less than 30 miles from the WV state line the engine sputtered a bit and then picked back up....about 5 miles later it happened again (sputter) and when I pulled in the clutch and spiked the throttle it back fired then seemed tom go back to normal..figured I should take the next exit to check things out but before that it sputtered and when I turned the throttle it back fired twice and ALL POWER WAS LOST...Electrical included...
At the side of the road I noticed the fuse (second from bottom) was burnt very black inside and one other fuse was shot but the main one (25 a) was and is fine....
Back home next morning while checking things out I discovered that the "cap" that covers row of holes on top of battery was off and laying sideways an top of battery...Strange to see that because traveling 70 mph as I was you'd think it would be gone...The aftermath of this is no "low-beam" on the headlight and the rear right side (sitting on bike) turn signal is out.
I installed the battery new less than a week earlier but did not drive it until the day before I left...and during that "test ride" it had one very tiny sputter that I attributed to sitting in traffic a while ....
Things seemed okay for the most part before all of this and the ONLY MOD I did was to install a "DRAG" aftermarket mini tack by wiring two (red and yellow) to turn signals and ground wire to the frame....Lastly hooked the "green" wire from the tack to the negative post of the rear coil....
Other than shooting to the top when key turned on then drop to zero the tachometer reacts just fine...
I have never heard of a battery top coming off to expose all those holes with acid in them...Told the shop where I took it back to that I remember after filling the battery pushing down hard enough on the lid that I was nearly up on my toes...So I KNOW it was installed correctly and am at a loss as to what happened....
Also I am VERY concerned about the lasting damage this mishap could have created...
I charged an old battery I had just for assessment and after about 20 minuted it started conking out while diving...Able to get it home before another complete loss,... I hope today's symptoms of power loss are from using an old bat..But can't be sure till new one arrives @ the place I go for parts.
Sorry this post is SO VERY LONG but I wanted to be as descriptive as possible for those evaluating my problem...
Thanks so much for your help...

[JamesC]

You stated:

Back home next morning while checking things out I discovered that the "cap" that covers row of holes on top of battery was off and laying sideways an top of battery...Strange to see that because traveling 70 mph as I was you'd think it would be gone

So it sounds like you are riding around without the battery cover, the one that comes with the bike, not the one for the little holes. That in itself is a no-no, as the placement of the battery on the Intruder causes it to get all wet and nasty. Even with the cover on, you need to clean your terminals on a regular basis. I would try to get a refund for that battery you have and buy a maintenance free type; then order an OEM cover for the battery box and batten down the hatch, after making sure all terminals and connections are nice and clean.

Just my humble opinion.

[Leckbass]

Sounds like the battery vent cover popped off. Never seen that happen except when I overcharged a battery.

[buster711]

WOW James...That DID cross my mind but as a flash when going over things...I DO recall wanting to replace that thing and then somehow once forgot about it was OOS - OOM ...So the place I bought the battery from is a ""SALVAGE" yard for bikes..though they DO get me terrific deals on NEW stuff as well...For instance $117 rear tire and $97 front - that's TOTAL w/ mounted AND they helped me install them....ANYWAY he said give him couple days to get a replacement Battery in and I felt fortunate he was doing that even though I DID want a maintenance free one....Will see call tomorow and if not ordered see if he can get the no maint one instead- even if it adds to cost more..
Come to think of it I have had problems off and on with batteries the whole 2 and 1/2 years I have had this thing and other than the FIRST one I replaced the rest may have been from me forgetting to put the BIKE battery cover on and THEN neglecting it when I DID recall afterwards.....will check salvage for one since mine is ???
ALSO after reading what leckbass wrote about "overcharged" I remember the guy @ purchase telling me to charge 24 HOURS even if it shows FULL...So I will definitely fill him in on what THAT does.....Last but not least I remember his mom saying that Reg/Rectifier could have a problem....so if the battery and CASE top replace do not work guess will check that to find if it is overcharging?
I would be happy if THAT were the only problem (cover) because THAT I can remedy with some self discipline...Or if it is the reg/Rec because while not cheap its at least doable though I have never checked one and only replaced one on my 750 Vulcan years back.
Thanks so much for the tutoring on "NO-NO's" guys - REALLY appreciated,
buster

[Leckbass]

Most of the new technology smart chargers won't overcharge the battery. But maybe the bike was overcharging the battery. Take a reading the next time you start it.

[buster711]

when I unhooked the connector from harness to Reg/Rec it was melted and black on both parts...I remember having to redo the wires (3 yellow) and eliminate a different connector that had done the same thing - up top closer to seat area but I think it was THAT set of wires....So now not sure if the newest mess is from before or if it is new from this go around?....
Looking for the video I saved on testing the reg/rec....Just need to figure out what file it is - or look it up again....thanks folks, your ideas are helping greatly,
buster

[enforcer]

when I unhooked the connector from harness to Reg/Rec it was melted and black on both parts...I remember having to redo the wires (3 yellow) and eliminate a different connector that had done the same thing - up top closer to seat area but I think it was THAT set of wires....So now not sure if the newest mess is from before or if it is new from this go around?....
Looking for the video I saved on testing the reg/rec....Just need to figure out what file it is - or look it up again....thanks folks, your ideas are helping greatly,
buster

The three yellow wires you speak of are the AC from the stator. Those feed into the R/R where the current is converted to DC. If indeed the R/R failed, the overcharge could have fried that plug. Pinched stator wires could have done the same.

I'd think it best to test the output from the stator and R/R to make sure you're replacing the correct components, especially if you're replacing the battery anyway. Either one or both being faulty will trash your new battery.

[buster711]

Agree TOTALLY

[buster711]

I went ahead and ordered the stator and regulator-rectifier for a total of $68 on amazon....Yes I am taking a risk not knowing what I am getting per say but the satisfaction rates for the sellers was over 98% and I can't afford the mega-bucks from a dealer...So I figured if replacing the battery and these other parts are NEW they will likely perform better than what is on the bike now....After-all SOMETHING has made me go through THREE batteries in a little over TWO years.....
Crazy thing is that my "Ole reliable 98 Virago 1100 would not start @ Walmart when leaving and when I tried to tighten the lead - or at least check the tightness of it the tab (terminal) broke off in my hand....So new battery for THAT AS WELL....Can't win it seems but it is what it is and just have to deal with it and fix stuff till go broke or have built TWO NEW BIKES LOL