Bobber thoughts... Simplifying...

[BRONX INTRUDER]

In making an already easy bike to work on easier.. I was thinking. (I do that sometimes.. Lol)
Bobbing with shorter shocks means less battery dropping clearance and more time to prep for dropping instead of just doing it.
How about maybe relocating the battery to the front of the bike under the oil cooler in a box bolted to frame downtubes? Or building a battery box where rear air box was (after ripping it out & going with pods) for battery to slide in/out of? Ditching the side tins and neck covers too.
How about easier/faster spark plug access?.. Doing away with the chrome engine covers and taking up the slack on top with stacks of washers?
How much wire can we cut out too? Just so we're not cramming a mess into tight spaces.. It'd be nice to get it down to bare minimum and in a small pouch maybe.. Or even down below in that battery box we aren't using anymore. Lol.

[Herb]

There have been a few people that have done that. Some have gone so far as to pull the stuff for the compression release and do the
compression release by hand.

I pulled the little backrest off, the side covers, the spark plug covers, the cover over the clutch slave cylinder, the cover for the rear master cylinder reservoir, the fuel evap canister, and the fuel pump relay (I didn't pull the wiring for it, too much trouble). For awhile I had the neck covers off but pulling them required putting washers under the tank mount and they were a pain in the ass, so I put the covers back on.

I have seen 1400's with the other 2 decorative cylinder head covers off. I don't know if they had to shorten the bolts but they didn't have washers under the bolts. There have been posts about putting pod filters on and turning the current air filter box into either a battery box, a tool box, or even just throwing it away. Pulling the front air box requires building a mount for the throttle cable, I remember seeing a post about how to do it, but I don't remember if it was on this board or the old one.

This link is to a bunch of pics and videos of 1400 bobbers, some of them are pretty sweet.

[BRONX INTRUDER]

Yeah. I wana try cutting it down as much as possible.
It's for a buddy and i'll be sure to post pics when completed.
Don't see any link.. Lol.

[vorgath]

Any links as far as removing the decompression module (and just do it by hand) ?

[jonnycando]

Just get a manual choke kit for cars (You may be too young to know of this gadget ) , and re-purpose the hand control to hook to one of the decomp bellcranks.Mount it on left, near the clutch handle, so you pull it out, then pull in clutch....thumb the starter with right hand, and then thumb your new decomp control back to off as the engine begins to crank!

[palchemist]

I'm curious to know about how exactly decompression works when starting the bike. From what I've read, it seems like you could pull the decomp cables, and then start the bike at any time after that with the cylinders now depressurized. Does the starter motor need the cables pulled to initially turn the motor? If I have to mimic what the timer in that little circuit is doing, I'd rather let the machine do it..

[Lechy]

The starter motor on the 1400's is underrated for the work it has to do initially. The decomp allows the starter to spin up without a massive initial draw of amps.
[emoji41]

[Herb]

It doesn't matter how long the decom is active. The first time I had to pull an engine I crushed the cable from the decomp solenoid. I ordered it but it didn't come in before I had the bike ready to ride. I rode for 2 days by operating the decomp from the front cylinder. pull the decom on, spin the starter and then release the decomp. Worked fine, just a hassle.

[Slimchuckles]

There have been a few people that have done that. Some have gone so far as to pull the stuff for the compression release and do the
compression release by hand.

I pulled the little backrest off, the side covers, the spark plug covers, the cover over the clutch slave cylinder, the cover for the rear master cylinder reservoir, the fuel evap canister, and the fuel pump relay (I didn't pull the wiring for it, too much trouble). For awhile I had the neck covers off but pulling them required putting washers under the tank mount and they were a pain in the ass, so I put the covers back on.

I have seen 1400's with the other 2 decorative cylinder head covers off. I don't know if they had to shorten the bolts but they didn't have washers under the bolts. There have been posts about putting pod filters on and turning the current air filter box into either a battery box, a tool box, or even just throwing it away. Pulling the front air box requires building a mount for the throttle cable, I remember seeing a post about how to do it, but I don't remember if it was on this board or the old one.

This link is to a bunch of pics and videos of 1400 bobbers, some of them are pretty sweet.

I'm very interested in knowing if anyone has any information on this as I'd really like to tear the front air box out of the bike.

[navigator]

There have been a few people that have done that. Some have gone so far as to pull the stuff for the compression release and do the
compression release by hand.

I pulled the little backrest off, the side covers, the spark plug covers, the cover over the clutch slave cylinder, the cover for the rear master cylinder reservoir, the fuel evap canister, and the fuel pump relay (I didn't pull the wiring for it, too much trouble). For awhile I had the neck covers off but pulling them required putting washers under the tank mount and they were a pain in the ass, so I put the covers back on.

I have seen 1400's with the other 2 decorative cylinder head covers off. I don't know if they had to shorten the bolts but they didn't have washers under the bolts. There have been posts about putting pod filters on and turning the current air filter box into either a battery box, a tool box, or even just throwing it away. Pulling the front air box requires building a mount for the throttle cable, I remember seeing a post about how to do it, but I don't remember if it was on this board or the old one.

This link is to a bunch of pics and videos of 1400 bobbers, some of them are pretty sweet.

I'm very interested in knowing if anyone has any information on this as I'd really like to tear the front air box out of the bike.

I see you have a 700, for that bike you have 2 options.
1. dissect the airbox with a saw and pull it out in pieces, it of course is not reusable then.
2. remove the engine to remove it in one piece.
You can probably run pod filters with the airbox in place, but IMO uncorking a 700/800 yields no impressive gains.

[Slimchuckles]

I'm not going for performance gains, just trying to clean it up. If engine removal is required to pull it out in one piece, then it's just getting shredded.

do you have to destroy both to remove them or can either one be removed without destruction?

I know the rear holds the fuse box and a few other things and the throttle cable clamp attaches to the front one, so I would probably just extract those pieces from the air boxes themselves but if I can cut on them without them in the frame of the bike, that would be prefereable.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Zac

[navigator]

The rear can be unbolted and removed. The front has already been addressed.
What do you mean by 'clean it up'? the front airbox can't be seen tucked up in the neck.
I am going to ask why?
Are you still going to run stock filters?
If so the lack of an air box won't allow sufficient vacuum to lift the slides and the bike will run poorly. You may be able to run socks on them to boost the vacuum.
Are you switching to pod filters, or rejetting?

[Lechy]

Pod filter installation:

http://intruders-alert.com/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=6963

[emoji41]

[Slimchuckles]

I don’t like the number of electrical and fluid lines suzuki felt the need to run through narrow parts of the bikes anatomy. Removing the rear air box would alleviate some of the congestion. I have no problem wrapping an old t-shirt around the air filters to get the vacuum because I’m sort of going for a rat bobber appearance. They also are in the way of relocating a few things because I’m going to chop the rear fender. The front one crowds the front carb and adds to the fluid and electrical congestion. When I say clean it up I really mean to remove a few things to make maintenance easier.

[navigator]

Gotcha. [emoji106]

[Slimchuckles]

Got the airboxes out. The rear one was a piece of cake, that front one was a bear. It’s out and pod filters are on the way.

[Aequitas4]

Does anyone have any information on how people with no front airbox mounted the throttle cables. I've been running with mine hanging loose and would like to see what others have done.

[Designer]

Does anyone have any information on how people with no front airbox mounted the throttle cables. I've been running with mine hanging loose and would like to see what others have done.

I had heard some folks zip tying it and letting it "hang".
This will prove a mistake in that a lack of a secure mounting of the splitter will negatively affect all the work you do in Synchronization.....right quick

I made a simple metal bracket and bolted it to one of the threaded holes on the Frame that held the Air Box in place.

[Aequitas4]

Yeah. I can definitely confirm that the slack is throwing off the sync I"ll see what I can fab up tonight. I've been meaning to do another sync anyways. Pretty sure I still had a small carb boot gasket air leak during the last one. If anyone has a picture of what they've done with bracket I would appreciate it.

[Designer]

I will check my Project Photograph Archives to see if I have a picture of my Splitter Bracket for you.