Intruders-Alert

When sync the carbs do u do it with or without the boost sensor?

Shouldn't matter...boost sensor affects timing. It is vacuum operated but since it is a normal part of the system I would leave it hooked up, and that way you will sync with that variation in vacuum accounted for.

thanks was thinking the same just good to hear it from another appreciate it

jonnycando wrote:Shouldn't matter...boost sensor affects timing. It is vacuum operated but since it is a normal part of the system I would leave it hooked up, and that way you will sync with that variation in vacuum accounted for.

The book says to disconnect the boost sensor and use the fitting on the front cylinder for the sync. I think it would be almost the same thing as leaving the vacuum advance hooked up on an older car, it would not give a proper timing setting and leaving the boost sensor hooked up could cause an issue with the sync.

OK, I don't have a 1400 but I am under the impression that the boost sensor is hooked up to one of the vacuum ports and has to be removed to fit the synch hoses.
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Lechy wrote:OK, I don't have a 1400 but I am under the impression that the boost sensor is hooked up to one of the vacuum ports and has to be removed to fit the synch hoses.
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That's what I'm thinking as well - use the boost sensor hose as a sync hose.

You are syching by reading the vacuum from each cylinder . It is imperative that the vacuum port is the same on both carbs.

The boost sensor may only sence vacuum on open throttle redering sych from there usless but I dont know I have an 87 and I don't have boost sensor.

Fred wrote:You are syching by reading the vacuum from each cylinder . It is imperative that the vacuum port is the same on both carbs.

The boost sensor may only sence vacuum on open throttle redering sych from there usless but I dont know I have an 87 and I don't have boost sensor.

No, the boost sensor fitting is fon the cylinder side of the carb, same as the rear cylinder. I have always used the fitting for the boost sensor for the sync, like the Suzuki manual says to do.

Fred doesn't have a boost sensor on his machine so he has no idea how it is hooked up. It is pretty much the same as the old vacuum advance on the distributor. It is hooked up to one of the vac ports on the carbs, front, rear, it won't make any difference but it needs to be disconnected and the synch hose put in its place for synching the carbs. I don't know how much difference to performance would be if it was left disconnected and the port plugged, I would imagine that the CDI would need to be re-mapped though. 700-800's don't have boost sensors and can out run a standard 1400. Well, maybe the 700 won't but it would keep up.

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It will make no difference if boost is left on or not as it is affecting timing for both cylinders .

There are no vac ports on the carb itself for sychcinng, the synch ports are on the inlet boot where vac is constantly similar.

Remember these are CV carbs and have a butterfly at the very end of the throat. Vac must be taken in front of that.

You are synching by comparing one cylinder pulling against the other. The ports used have to be identicall or you are wasting your time. The sycnch does not take into consideration a longer exhaust pipe on the front or a hotter front cylinder but it s a start for those who can not do it by ear.

I have synched many times just to pass sunday morning only to re adjust by ear for perfection./

Finally after finishing my 96 1400. It was off to the Suzuki dealer to get carbs,,sync. This dealer had a flat rate of $180.00 . The other dealer told me it was by the hr whether it takes 15 mins or 2 hrs, Anyway I already had the tank and seat off. And installed a new throttle cable but just routed to carbs and not hooked on carbs yet . So they said they would take care of that for me. I thought but trying the sync .but decided to let them do it does that sound like a fair price. Also asked if that was possable about turning the petcock on the tank 180% anbody know if that is possable,.

keges335 wrote:Finally after finishing my 96 1400. It was off to the Suzuki dealer to get carbs,,sync. This dealer had a flat rate of $180.00 . The other dealer told me it was by the hr whether it takes 15 mins or 2 hrs, Anyway I already had the tank and seat off. And installed a new throttle cable but just routed to carbs and not hooked on carbs yet . So they said they would take care of that for me. I thought but trying the sync .but decided to let them do it does that sound like a fair price. Also asked if that was possable about turning the petcock on the tank 180% anbody know if that is possable,.

180 dollar Even 2 hours = 90 dollar per hour

Why put the pet cock back to front --you have to turn it off the get the tank off. How you gonna get your hand up to turn it off if its facing forward.

When you asked them to to do that did they laugh.

If you did do it your fuel takes offs would be facing the wrong way and you reserve in the tank would be too.

Just leave it as it is.

No they didn't laugh and thought maybe this might work. And your right the shutoff would be in the front and hard to get to. But fuel lines would be straight and not have that bend in them. I bought new ethanol resist fuel line that Motion pro makes. So I got rid ofthe factory lines. Just tbought it might be a better idea. The Suzuki Dealer who has been in business for 25 yrs and works on Motorcycles and knows 1400s said you can do that. But that was all he said. And yes te fuel lines would be in a different routing too. Just don't like the curl that goes around with the new lines instead of the factory lines.

Thks for the reply. K.

If you turn the pet cock around, you can turn the pickup tubes 180 degrees. If you need to shut off the fuel, you can pull the tank out of the front mount and rotate the tank towards the back of the bike until you can reach the shutoff.

I took the pet cock off and blanked it. I soldered a small brass fitting to take an old Triumph type at the back of the tank on the left. I understand the bend you talk about and used to wake up up many times to find a garage floor soaked in fuel. I do not regret my mod and can remove the tank in seconds and I am confident that when I leave it the fuel will still be there when I get back.

The fuel and reserve pipes on the inside are not the same, I cant remember now but one of them faces fwd or back. Whic ever it is will be reversed meaning a very small reserve---or lager one.

Yes the one filter is longer than the other one. Just don't like the curl in the fuel lines. But getting tank repainted over the winter. Color is blue with white sides. So going with sides being painted black to match contour of seats. Which I have noticed in some pics. So maybe will think of something different with fuel lines.

On my original tank, I had installed a regular petcock off of an XR650. I had removed the secondary petcock and all of the lines out to the fuel pump. After my wife ran over the bike with the utility trailer I replaced the tank but never got around to replacing the petcock.

The issue I had with the XR petcock was that it only gave me 7 miles on reserve.

I will be removing the tank to do some work, I think I will turn the petcock around.

The issue with the shutoff is minimal in comparison to the hassel of getting the damn hoses on that ass backward petcock. That doesn't even take into account the cost of the stock hoses, almost $30 for the 2 of them.