Decomp adjustment 101?

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PrinceMo
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Decomp adjustment 101?

Post by PrinceMo »

Would somebody walk me thru decomp adjustment for my 1988 1400cc intruder?

Maybe the rear is not quite closed on the intake stroke allowing oil to be s sucked down the valve stem.

Baby steps because my old ass is old.

Thanks,

Prince.

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Herb
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Re: Decomp adjustment 101?

Post by Herb »

prince,
Kinda hard to explain without the drawings that are in the manual.

First, remove the covers over the spark plug area on both heads. Then lube the cables on the front and rear decomp levers, use a good penetrating oil with a silicone lube (don't use WD-40, it does not leave an oil film on the parts. I use PB Blaster). I always work the cables back and forth a few times to work the lube up the cables.

Then you adjust the front cylinder cable. It is the lower cable that is adjusted. There is a tab that sticks up on the top of the pivoting lever and another tab that sticks out from a plate screwed to the cylinder head. The distance between the 2 tabs is between 1.5 and 2.5 mm (0.06-0.10inch) I always set mine at 2.0mm.

Then move to the rear cylinder, the cable should have already been lubed. On the bottom of the pivot lever there is a small ear, with a flat top that sticks out and there is a flat spot on the bottom of the bracket that holds the cable. The clearance between the 2 is 1.0-2.0mm (0.04-0.08inch), I always set it at 1.5mm.

Page 2-8 of the manual has good instructions and a good drawing of the cable adjustments. Because it is a PDF I cannot copy the drawing.

http://www.intruders-alert.com/viewtopi ... =10&t=3338
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PrinceMo
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Re: Decomp adjustment 101?

Post by PrinceMo »

Thanks.
This sounds doable.
On the other hand I tried before.

Does the plunger thingie that pulls the cable need anything done to it?

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Re: Decomp adjustment 101?

Post by WintrSol »

Herb wrote: Page 2-8 of the manual has good instructions and a good drawing of the cable adjustments. Because it is a PDF I cannot copy the drawing.
If you install a PDF printer, like CutePDF Writer, you can print selected pages to another PDF. If you want a drawing to post in jpg or other drawing form, just make the part you want as large on your screen as it can go, then use Alt-Prt Sc combo to copy it to the Clipboard; open a drawing editor and paste it in as a new drawing, and you have it. You can use the editor for touch-ups, too.

Image
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Herb
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Re: Decomp adjustment 101?

Post by Herb »

WintrSol wrote:
Herb wrote: Page 2-8 of the manual has good instructions and a good drawing of the cable adjustments. Because it is a PDF I cannot copy the drawing.
If you install a PDF printer, like CutePDF Writer, you can print selected pages to another PDF. If you want a drawing to post in jpg or other drawing form, just make the part you want as large on your screen as it can go, then use Alt-Prt Sc combo to copy it to the Clipboard; open a drawing editor and paste it in as a new drawing, and you have it. You can use the editor for touch-ups, too.

Image
And since the original manual is available, the individual can go look it up.
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PrinceMo
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Re: Decomp adjustment 101?

Post by PrinceMo »

I will try to go to a friend's house to print it out tomorrow.

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Re: Decomp adjustment 101?

Post by WintrSol »

Herb wrote: And since the original manual is available, the individual can go look it up.
I was just putting that out there, for files that may not be available on line, but from which someone may want to post an image.
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Herb
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Re: Decomp adjustment 101?

Post by Herb »

WintrSol wrote:
Herb wrote: And since the original manual is available, the individual can go look it up.
I was just putting that out there, for files that may not be available on line, but from which someone may want to post an image.
Yeah, I know, I'm just being a PITA...

BTW, lubing the cables should be done, at least, every other oil change. Dry cables can stick and will cause problems.
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Re: Decomp adjustment 101?

Post by PrinceMo »

Really.. every other oil change.

I think my decomp cables were oiled 2 or 3 times since I got the bike.

It looks ez enough but how to I keep the plunger in the up position?

It works with a magnet right?

I'm gonna get this done today.

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Re: Decomp adjustment 101?

Post by WintrSol »

If you use a long-lasting lube, like a clear MC chain lube, you don't need to use it as often. But then, it's more easily forgotten ... :Umm:

The solenoid should have a spring to work against, keeping it in the deactivated position; you can always sharpen a stick to jam it in position, if you think it can move around, though.
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Herb
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Re: Decomp adjustment 101?

Post by Herb »

WintrSol wrote:If you use a long-lasting lube, like a clear MC chain lube, you don't need to use it as often. But then, it's more easily forgotten ... :Umm:

The solenoid should have a spring to work against, keeping it in the deactivated position; you can always sharpen a stick to jam it in position, if you think it can move around, though.
The reason I like a penetrating oil like PB Blaster is that it will wick up the cable, rather than just lubing the area at the end.

The plunger for the decomp system is spring loaded to the up position if it isn't staying up on its own, the solenoid is bad.
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Re: Decomp adjustment 101?

Post by PrinceMo »

This should not be a hard job.
I must be missing something.

Could I have a stretched cable.
The bike only has about 64,000 miles.

Could I have a bad return spring?
WTF?

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Re: Decomp adjustment 101?

Post by PrinceMo »

It seems to me that a spring should push the lever thingie towards the stop.

Mine always have more play than they need.

I know I am missing something.

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Re: Decomp adjustment 101?

Post by WintrSol »

Referring to the picture, when the solenoid activates pulling the cable down, it causes the lever on the right side to turn CW, which pulls the second cable and turns the left lever CW. When the solenoid relaxes, the levers should return to the position indicated, as adjusted at the cable ends. Since these turn mechanical devices that go into the valve train, the position of the cams can interfere with this motion, so you may have to manually turn the engine to get full motion on the levers. We ran into this when adjusting my friend's C90T. Something the manual doesn't tell you.
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Fred
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Re: Decomp adjustment 101?

Post by Fred »

Your problem is not the decomp, what the decomp does or how it works is not the point.

If it is stuck open --even a hair it will mean the valve would not be seating and there would be no compression in that cylinder to run.

Are you sure both cylinders are running.

PrinceMo
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Re: Decomp adjustment 101?

Post by PrinceMo »

Should the adjustment be made while the bike is hot?

I made the adjustment but when the bike was hot it went away.

There is no smoke .
Still sometimes it starts to turn over then stops.
I take my thumb off of the button and push again and it works fine.

WTF?

PrinceMo
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Re: Decomp adjustment 101?

Post by PrinceMo »

Ok, I feel like a moron.
I have been trying to adjust my decomp and as you know it has not gone well.
I thought the adjustment could be made with the lever thingie at rest by just adjusting to the needed .010 space from the stop. But the space never held.

Now at 2:16 AM Monday Nov. 13th I think I know what I am doing wrong.

I think I need to apply force to the lever pushing it towards the stop. This will take out any slack in the cable. So if i force it towards the stop and make the adjustment and lock 'er down it should stay true.

That is my plan and I will get at is at daybreak.

OK NOON!

Wish me luck.

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