UGH, now I have aproblem with my 97 VS800 - Buzzing at fuel pump

[navigator]

Yeah, so it looks as if the fuel pump's working - I turn the throttle and its spitting out gas.

So could I have put the wrong hose to the wrong "outlet" on the one of two outlets on the fuel pump?

what's could be wrong?

Good Possibility.
Assuming it is a stock fuel pump, the line from the tank goes to the rear inlet on the pump. The front outlet goes to the rear carb.
It should flow fuel, not merely spit out gas.
The pump should not run with just the key on, it is activated by the start switch.
It should also be on the quiet side, not buzzing.

Then, as Herb sez, use a piece of hose, hooked to the front outlet of the pump, and pump the fuel into a container It should pump a little over a pint in 1 minute. BTW, the container should be at about the same height as the front carb.

[Herb]

Yeah, so it looks as if the fuel pump's working - I turn the throttle and its spitting out gas.

So could I have put the wrong hose to the wrong "outlet" on the one of two outlets on the fuel pump?

what's could be wrong?

Good Possibility.
Assuming it is a stock fuel pump, the line from the tank goes to the rear inlet on the pump. The front outlet goes to the rear carb.
It should flow fuel, not merely spit out gas.
The pump should not run with just the key on, it is activated by the start switch.
It should also be on the quiet side, not buzzing.

Then, as Herb sez, use a piece of hose, hooked to the front outlet of the pump, and pump the fuel into a container It should pump a little over a pint in 1 minute. BTW, the container should be at about the same height as the front carb.

I don't understand what he means about turning the throttle and it spits out gas. The throttle has nothing to do with the fuel pump, or shouldn't anyway.

[Georgey]

Sorry herb - I meant Start - not turn the throttle . I’ll check again if it “flows” but it definitely “spits out” when I push start. And it wasn’t buzzing anymore.

It is a stock fuel pump. Navigator - thanks for the heads up on the outlets on the pump!!

It’s raining in and off here now so I’ll let you guys know hopefully soon. Thanks!!!

[Designer]

Yes Please do keep us informed. We'd like to see you On the Road Again soon.

Good to hear your battery situation is resolved too.

[Herb]

Sorry herb - I meant Start - not turn the throttle . I’ll check again if it “flows” but it definitely “spits out” when I push start. And it wasn’t buzzing anymore.

It is a stock fuel pump. Navigator - thanks for the heads up on the outlets on the pump!!

It’s raining in and off here now so I’ll let you guys know hopefully soon. Thanks!!!

Sorry, I misunderstood.

If the pump isn't pumping what it should, a good steady flow for at least a minute, it might be bad.

There should be check valves in there and if they are not working properly it can push and pull the fuel so even though some gas comes out it may not be enough.

There could be dirt in it causing it not to pump enough gas.

[Georgey]

OK so this is what is happening.

While hold the fuel pump and the bike ON, nothing is flowing out of the hose. But when I push "start," lots of fuel comes out. But only when I push "start." I could easily fill a pint of gas under a minute, but only if I keep pushing "start." (It will stop buzzing and spit out gas when I keep pressing "start".)

[Georgey]

AAANND ---- WhenI had the hose connected to the carb and it won't start when I push START.

[navigator]

OK so this is what is happening.

While hold the fuel pump and the bike ON, nothing is flowing out of the hose. But when I push "start," lots of fuel comes out. But only when I push "start." I could easily fill a pint of gas under a minute, but only if I keep pushing "start." (It will stop buzzing and spit out gas when I keep pressing "start".)

That is good, the pump is working properly, and plumed correctly.
The pump is powered by two things...pressing start, and when the engine is running. It is a safety feature so if the engine quits, the pump will stop.
Next, check/replace the ignition fuse, and be sure you have spark.
Remove a spark plug and hold it to the engine to ground it, look for spark.

To start the bike, pull the choke knob all the way out, approx. 3/4"
Do not touch the throttle, crank until it starts.
If it does not start you will next check for fuel at the front carb. Pull the hose from the carb and run it into a container. You will probably need to remove the tank and run a longer hose to the pump for access.
The fuel flows to and thru the rear carb then to the front carb. there is a screen in the rear carb that may be plugged.
If you get fuel to the front carb, loosen the drain screw on the float bowl to be sure it is filling.

[navigator]

You should also check for obstructions or critters in your air boxes.
Do both carb butterflies start to move at the same time when you twist the throttle?
Since you have removed the carbs, they will probably need to be synced, once you get it running.

[Georgey]

OK here's where I'm at now -

it won't turn over - not a sound. not even the buzzing at the fuel pump.

The battery may have drained (even though I didn't use it for the past week other than trying to start it last week - headlight and brake light and turn signals work) so I connected it to recharge.

I have new spark plugs and new spark plug wires. 1 aftermarket ignition coil. the ignition fuse is OK (but I didn't replace it).

To recap, last year my bike suddenly stopped running at a light. I needed to give it constant throttle to make it back home. Early spring I took out the carbs and cleaned them, and cleaned them again by dipping them in pine-sol/water mix. Now it won't turn over. Headlight, taillight, brake light, turn signals work. ((I have modified the wiring of the start push button, turn signals, headlight, on/off key switch - to all be controlled by toggle switches I put on my side cover --- The bike rode fine like this for most of 2020 until it stopped)

I have new battery, new spark plugs, new spark plug wires, 1 new ignition coil, checked fuel pump (seems OK based on test above). I suppose I have a grounded wire somewhere? but don't think so -- I'll check again. what am I missing?

[navigator]

When something suddenly stops working, always check the last thing you messed with. JMO.
"I have modified the wiring of the start push button, turn signals, headlight, on/off key switch - to all be controlled by toggle switches I put on my side cover ---"

[Herb]

When something suddenly stops working, always check the last thing you messed with. JMO.
"I have modified the wiring of the start push button, turn signals, headlight, on/off key switch - to all be controlled by toggle switches I put on my side cover ---"

+1

Or something that was modified in the past.

On my pickup, I instaled a backup camera using a toggle switch that had been on it for a set of driving lights. A couple of months later it stopped working, I thought it was something wrong with the camera system but it turned out that the toggle had gone bad.

[Georgey]

Herb,
never thought of the switch going bad , but when I use it the fuel pump will vibrate and buzz,

So I am back where I started. I checked all my electrical connections. There are OK.

from what I can tell from the wiring diagram, pushing the start button will activate the fuel pump, starter relay and starter motor (yellow/green wire - bypassing clutch safety switch). The orange/white wire goes to the ignition coils, then to the igniter (CDI box) (I have the orange/red wire connected to the black/red wire, bypassing the engine stop switch). Then black/red wire goes to the side stand relay.

I put my old starter relay back on because the one I bought off ebay fell apart.

I have new ignition coils and spark plugs and spark plug wires. and triple checked their connections.

The fuel pump vibrates and "buzzes and based on the previous test it seems to work. I am NOT getting spark.

I KNOW the lectures of messing around with the electrical system is asking for dismissive responses, but I had this setup with toggle switches and it worked fine for half of the year 2020

((I have toggle switches replacing stick switches on my 3 other intruders and they're fine.))

THEN I encountered the problem I had at a red light where the bike stopped, and I had to give it constant throttle/gas to get it home. Then I cleaned the carbs. But now I can't get it to spark. Just a buzz vibration at the fuel pump and no spark is where I'm at now.

Any ideas?

[navigator]

What is the voltage at the buzzing vibrating fuel pump?

[Herb]

Cranking is when it engine turns over with the electric starter.

Is the engine cranking but there is no spark?

[Georgey]

OK After 2 starter solenoids, I finally got it to turn over ---but it still won't stay on, unless I give it throttle/gas.

[navigator]

OK After 2 starter solenoids, I finally got it to turn over ---but it still won't stay on, unless I give it throttle/gas.

Use the thumbscrew on the rear carb to raise the idle to keep it running.
It should idle between 900 and 1000 rpm.

[Georgey]

=

OK After 2 starter solenoids, I finally got it to turn over ---but it still won't stay on, unless I give it throttle/gas.

Use the thumbscrew on the rear carb to raise the idle to keep it running.
It should idle between 900 and 1000 rpm.

I'm re-reading this post again, I can't believe it - now your post makes sense to me Navigator ---
I just learned about this thumbscrew on this forum in another post a few weeks ago and never knew about it before and feel like an idiot. It's helped me with two other intruders I have bought used (one idling too low, other idling too high).

So now I'm wondering if this would have solved all my problems in the first place? All I had to do was adjust that f ' in thumbscrew?!?!? I really hope that's all that is, but at the same time, if that's all the problem was, boy do I feel like a big dummy.

[Herb]

=

OK After 2 starter solenoids, I finally got it to turn over ---but it still won't stay on, unless I give it throttle/gas.

Use the thumbscrew on the rear carb to raise the idle to keep it running.
It should idle between 900 and 1000 rpm.

I'm re-reading this post again, I can't believe it - now your post makes sense to me Navigator ---
I just learned about this thumbscrew on this forum in another post a few weeks ago and never knew about it before and feel like an idiot. It's helped me with two other intruders I have bought used (one idling too low, other idling too high).

So now I'm wondering if this would have solved all my problems in the first place? All I had to do was adjust that f ' in thumbscrew?!?!? I really hope that's all that is, but at the same time, if that's all the problem was, boy do I feel like a big dummy.

You are not a dummy, you had a problem and have worked at figuring it out. You were willing to ask questions and learn.
Sometimes a person doesn't even know the right questions to ask so it takes a lot of trial and error.

Ignorance is curable with education.
Stupidity is refusing to learn and is terminal.

[Georgey]

OK - I finally got it to start (I re-installed the old solenoid after I tested it and it was ok after all).

now the current problem is that it will die out after a while - while riding, while just on. I can start it back up right away, usually no problem (One or two pushes on the start button). I thought it was out of gas, so I was able to "ride" it to the gas station to fill it up, but I still had .8 (of the 2.8 gallons) in the tank and still had the problem after the fill up.

I did fool with the carb thumbscrew, so that I wouldn't have the original problem I had before (original problem - it suddenly died at a red light and then I needed to give it constant throttle to keep it on).

Anybody have any ideas? Thanks for helping me get to this point.