Tubes and bearings?..

[BRONX INTRUDER]

I have a 21" rim that needs a tube and bearings.

I feel like I got a heavy duty (possibly drag specialties brand) long ago but don't recall size.

Also; think i used to get All-Balls wheel bearings...

Anyways; What you guys going with nowadays and recommend?

[Herb]

When I replaced wheel bearings I used the OEM.

As for the tube, I dont' remember the last time I bought one. At least 4 tires ago, somewhere between 70 and 80K. I think it was the cheapest I could find.

[hillsy]

Pretty sure the bearings are 6302 - common size on a lot of bikes including heaps of Suzuki models. You can go to a local bearing place and buy them for about half the price of OEM. Or even cheaper on eBay / Amazon if you shop around. It's a roller bearing - not really rocket science - just make sure you get a sealed type unless you like re-greasing them

As far as tubes go I can't help you there. Although being a 21" you would find more in dirt bike world than street bike world. Again - not rocket science.

[Lechy]

Yep, front bearings are 6302. Just a heads up when fitting the bearings, they should not butt up tight against the spacer tube, it is not a slip fit on the axle and can hang up on the outer race of the bearings causing an imbalance due to elliptical rotation and a very unnerving grinding noise.Don't ask me why Suzuki decided to do this as I cannot see the sense in it.

[hillsy]

Yep, front bearings are 6302. Just a heads up when fitting the bearings, they should not butt up tight against the spacer tube, it is not a slip fit on the axle and can hang up on the outer race of the bearings causing an imbalance due to elliptical rotation and a very unnerving grinding noise.Don't ask me why Suzuki decided to do this as I cannot see the sense in it.

From memory I think one side gets seated firm then the other bearing goes in to just meet the inner sleeve. Not sure which side but it will be in the manual.

[Lechy]

If memory serves me, the left side bearing butts up to the lip in the axle housing and the right side bearing needs a slight gap (unspecified in the manual) between the outer race and lip. If you are a member of the FB community Suzuki Intruders Worldwide you can download a manual from the files section. Under the header pic find "more" click it to get to the files section, choose the manual and click on the 3 dots on the right. There is also a parts microfiche available too.

[BRONX INTRUDER]

If memory serves me, the left side bearing butts up to the lip in the axle housing and the right side bearing needs a slight gap (unspecified in the manual) between the outer race and lip. If you are a member of the FB community Suzuki Intruders Worldwide you can download a manual from the files section. Under the header pic find "more" click it to get to the files section, choose the manual and click on the 3 dots on the right. There is also a parts microfiche available too.

Sweet; thanks brother!

[BRONX INTRUDER]

Thanks you Herb and Hillsy too.

[hillsy]

By the way - forgot to add - the 6302-2RS is the denomination for the sealed bearing, 6302 just by itself is unsealed.

And thinking about the bearing seating some more - it should be the disc side that would be fully seated as this dictates the clearance between the disc and caliper and should not have any variance.

[Acton67]

Generally speaking how do you tell when the bearings need to be replaced on a front/back rim? Bought snowflake rims off someone this spring, bike seems to ride fine but I like to prevent problems before they occur.

[hillsy]

Generally speaking how do you tell when the bearings need to be replaced on a front/back rim? Bought snowflake rims off someone this spring, bike seems to ride fine but I like to prevent problems before they occur.

You can tell by rolling them around by hand and feeling for any rough spots or play. Also with the wheel in the forks / swimgarm and the wheel off the ground if there is any play / movement of the wheel sideways or back and forth.

At the end of the day bearings are pretty cheap - so if you are in doubt it's probably best to just replace them for your own peace of mind.

[Acton67]

Generally speaking how do you tell when the bearings need to be replaced on a front/back rim? Bought snowflake rims off someone this spring, bike seems to ride fine but I like to prevent problems before they occur.

You can tell by rolling them around by hand and feeling for any rough spots or play. Also with the wheel in the forks / swimgarm and the wheel off the ground if there is any play / movement of the wheel sideways or back and forth.

At the end of the day bearings are pretty cheap - so if you are in doubt it's probably best to just replace them for your own peace of mind.

Will there be any obvious issues with the bike before a complete mechanical failure occurs? If the bearings are bad what's the worst that could happen? I have no idea when the bearings where last done on my bike but it seems to ride fine. I did so much stuff on my bike last winter, other then oil changes I'm hoping to avoid having to wrench on it again until next winter. If this is the kind of thing that can become a big problem real quick without much warning I'll address it asap though...

[hillsy]

You normally get plenty of warning before a wheel bearing totally fails - noise, movement of the wheel (side to side), steering wobbles, etc. If the bearings are sealed and they move freely they are fine.

[Herb]

Generally speaking how do you tell when the bearings need to be replaced on a front/back rim? Bought snowflake rims off someone this spring, bike seems to ride fine but I like to prevent problems before they occur.

You can tell by rolling them around by hand and feeling for any rough spots or play. Also with the wheel in the forks / swimgarm and the wheel off the ground if there is any play / movement of the wheel sideways or back and forth.

At the end of the day bearings are pretty cheap - so if you are in doubt it's probably best to just replace them for your own peace of mind.

Will there be any obvious issues with the bike before a complete mechanical failure occurs? If the bearings are bad what's the worst that could happen? I have no idea when the bearings where last done on my bike but it seems to ride fine. I did so much stuff on my bike last winter, other then oil changes I'm hoping to avoid having to wrench on it again until next winter. If this is the kind of thing that can become a big problem real quick without much warning I'll address it asap though...

I put 154,000 miles on my 87 intruder 1400 without changing a wheel bearing. I did change the swingarm bearings because it started feeling like it was hinged in the middle, at a little over 130,000.

What is wierd is that the 99 had the front wheel bearings changed, because I was getting sideplay, at about 200,000. I noticed it when I was putting the front wheel back on after a tire change. But I have over 240,000 on the 99 and the swingarm bearings are still fine.

If you are concerned, jack up the bike with the wheel off the ground and see if there is any sideplay or any grinding noise when it is turning. Same for the rear and check the swingarm bearings by trying to move the swingarm side to side. There may be enough to be noticable but but if it doesn't feel like the the back end is trying to make a different turn than the front end, it is ok.

I am NOT a believer in a lot of "preventative" maintenance. I believe in checking and testing but unless there is a noticable problem, I leave it alone.

If it aint broke, don't fix it.