Alright, here we go!

[Designer]

Acton67,...If you used penetrating oil,...doing what penetrating oil is supposed to do ASAP.....it could seep down past the rings easily,...thus some has gotten into the Crankcase Oil.....which can work into the Cutch Plates as you Ride.

Why Risk it? It's the Smart Money and Cheap Insurance to install fresh, Clean oil for your Motor.

[hillsy v2]

If the video of you cranking the bike was the first one then it looks like you didn't have much lube in the bores anyway. Certainly not enough to contaminate the clutch plates.

Carry on.

[Acton67]

Took apart the carbs today. The front carb disassembly went well with no issues but the rear carb was a disaster. I had similar issues on my VS800, the pin for the float was stuck. Tried lightly tapping out the pin but looks like the previous owner mangled the pin so it wasn't straight anymore. When I tried tapping it out this happened. Anyway to repair it or do I need to buy a new carb? I'm hoping there's some sort of adhesive I can use to glue it back together that won't disolve in gas.

[Designer]

Oh NO! And things were going so well for you! Sorry this happened.

This same thing happened to a good Friend of mine,..Lonewolf. I repaired his using JB Weld epoxy. Don't use the Fast Setting version. it isn't as strong when cured as the Regular one.

You will need to use the Epoxy product on more than the two small mating surfaces of the Float Pin Post that broke on you. :space; Be sure it is coating the entire outside diameter of the Post that broke. :space" using a small file, lightly "rough up" the outside surfaces of the Post and adjoining so that the Epoxy has some "Tooth" to grab onto better than the somewhat smooth casting surfaces.

And,...be sure you perform the final gluing with the Straightened Pin in place to ensure exact alignment.

[Acton67]

Oh NO! And things were going so well for you! Sorry this happened.

This same thing happened to a good Friend of mine,..Lonewolf. I repaired his using JB Weld epoxy. Don't use the Fast Setting version. it isn't as strong when cured as the Regular one.

You will need to use the Epoxy product on more than the two small mating surfaces of the Float Pin Post that broke on you. :space; Be sure it is coating the entire outside diameter of the Post that broke. :space" using a small file, lightly "rough up" the outside surfaces of the Post and adjoining so that the Epoxy has some "Tooth" to grab onto better than the somewhat smooth casting surfaces.

And,...be sure you perform the final gluing with the Straightened Pin in place to ensure exact alignment.

Just found this video on YouTube about repairing these float pin towers. What do you think of this method? Not sure if drilling a hole and adding the drill bit as he does in the video is overkill or a good idea.



Here's a picture of the pin. Whoever owned this bike previously was an idiot.

[Designer]

Wow! The PO kinda mangled that Pin!

Installing a Reinforcement "pin" drilled in such as the guy in the video did is helpful. The problem with that is the holes in each piece can often drilled off center/at an angle and affect final alignment,...especially easy to happen if the break itself is at an angle.

I used two "coats" of epoxy and roughed up the surfaces both of the Carb pieces and the Cured First coat of epoxy before I put on a second coating of epoxy...........Never ever had any problems.

I do like his gluing set up,..with the zip Ties and all. Just so long as it doesn't adversely affect Alignment when the Epoxy is setting.

Anything like that to ensure proper alignment when done is a Good Thing, eh?

[Acton67]

Got around to repairing the carb today, installed the new coils and have spark on both, and then checked compression on both cylinders. Everything went well. Used a peice of electric tape as a gasket to line up the holes I drilled on both peices of the float tower perfectly.



Next time I'll be installing the carbs, doing an oil change then will see if I can get the bike running. Do I need to change the oil in both the primary and the oil radiator(not sure what the real name is), or would it be alright to just change the oil in the primary now if I only intend to run for a few minutes to see if it'll start? When I synch the carbs I figure I'll definitely have to change the oil in both since I'll be running the bike longer then.

[Herb]

The oil cooler drains into the sump, no reason to do more than change the oil and filter. You do need to hold the bike as perpindicular as possible to drain all the oil.

[Acton67]

The oil cooler drains into the sump, no reason to do more than change the oil and filter. You do need to hold the bike as perpindicular as possible to drain all the oil.

Alright so you mean hold it straight up, not leaning to the left on its kickstand? With the vs800 I had to jack the bike up a little to get an oil pan underneath

[Herb]

I have no problem getting a regular oil pan under the 1400 but as the stream from the drain slows down it needs to be moved to a perpendicular position to get it to finish draining.

[Hylander]

Hey Acton, I was enjoying your journey! Any updates since you last worked on it?