New rider in Seattle

[sgtcall]

Mine lift is easy to use and once the bike is on the lift it just sits there with no wobble at all. On the lift I made for the intruder I had eye bolts in the top so I could run ratchet straps to hold it in place. I only used the straps if I was ding something that required more work. I have not added them to this one yet because all I really need to do to the Triumph is change fluids and wax the chain. I did add an old piece of carpet to the lift after the picture was taken just to protect the frame but soft wood doesn't really hurt it anyway. If you need the front wheel up you just move the lift more to the front so it works for both wheels.

[bdschultz]

Lots of great advice on jacks and lifts here, thanks all.

Ultimately I'll probably get a proper jack but for the time being I'm going to head out to the garage and make a temporary one out of lumber, because...

I may have my first issue, which is: I noticed there is no daylight between my front brake pads and the rotor. After some preliminary digging, sounds like some pad contact is expected, that it's really more about whether the wheel spins freely (a.k.a., rotates a handful of times before coming to a stop).

Would love to have you all weigh in on this. The service manual doesn't seem to have much information in the way of adjustments or tolerances when it comes to this scenario.

Also - took my maiden voyage this morning! Felt like a newborn calf trying to walk out there but I had a blast!

[Designer]

I may have my first issue, which is: I noticed there is no daylight between my front brake pads and the rotor. After some preliminary digging, sounds like some pad contact is expected, that it's really more about whether the wheel spins freely (a.k.a., rotates a handful of times before coming to a stop).
Would love to have you all weigh in on this. The service manual doesn't seem to have much information in the way of adjustments or tolerances when it comes to this scenario.

Yes, since the Pads are not attached to the Pistons, they will not fully retract. Thus there will be some sort of Pad-to-Rotor contact. Just so long as the Wheel spins freely, (when on the Stand to test this) you don't hear any weird noises, you should be just fine.

......Also - took my maiden voyage this morning! Felt like a newborn calf trying to walk out there but I had a blast!

GREAT!
Soon you will be grinning ear-to-ear and lovin' the whole experience.

[sgtcall]

Intruder brake pads are easy, you don't even need to lift the bike. The only real tools you need are needle nose pliers and something to compress the pistons ( always used angle nose pliers and the old pad, let the hate begin, sometimes I used a C clamp). Just pull the cover off the caliber and then pull the cotter pins. The retaining bar slides right out then pull the pads. Compress the pistons and put new pads in.

[bdschultz]

Intruder brake pads are easy, you don't even need to lift the bike. The only real tools you need are needle nose pliers and something to compress the pistons ( always used angle nose pliers and the old pad, let the hate begin, sometimes I used a C clamp). Just pull the cover off the caliber and then pull the cotter pins. The retaining bar slides right out then pull the pads. Compress the pistons and put new pads in.

Thank you, sgtcal, big help.

I almost did exactly this, because the procedure for hydraulic brakes on bicycles is almost identical. I'll push the pistons with a small piece of plastic, rigid foam, etc. - something softer.

The pads themselves seem healthy, so I'll probably just clean them up a bit and reinstall.

[Designer]

Intruder brake pads are easy, you don't even need to lift the bike. The only real tools you need are needle nose pliers and something to compress the pistons ( always used angle nose pliers and the old pad, let the hate begin, sometimes I used a C clamp). Just pull the cover off the caliber and then pull the cotter pins. The retaining bar slides right out then pull the pads. Compress the pistons and put new pads in.

I do a similar method to press back the Piston. I use a piece of Wood Shim (it's thin enough to fit there) that fits against the Rotor and then use a small Pry Bar to push the Piston back.

But first!...I check the Fluid Level of the Master Cylinder and use a old Turkey Baster to remove excess. So that when Both Pistons are pushed back, I don't have the excess Brake Fluid resisting the Pistons movement and/or Leaking out and all over things like Paint and stuff.

[hillsy v2]

Make sure you don't have crud or rust on the pistons before you push them back into the caliper - you might end up with leaking seals if you do.

[FallenAngel]

Crack the bleeder open
Catch the old fluid in a bottle

You dont want to contaminate your brake fluid with the fluid that has been cooking in the caliper

Then flush with new fluid

[hillsy v2]

Crack the bleeder open
Catch the old fluid in a bottle

You dont want to contaminate your brake fluid with the fluid that has been cooking in the caliper

Then flush with new fluid

Yeah - this is probably the best thing to do. Don't even bother trying to push the piston back in - just flush out the old fluid.

[sgtcall]

But never empty the fluid. Replace from the top as you go. If you get air in the lines it is a PIA to get out.

[navigator]

Change the fluid annually, condensation will turn it brown.
Remove the fluid from the master with a turkey baster, wipe it clean. Don't touch the lever.
Refill with fresh fluid, bleed the line.
Have a beer and admire your work. JMO

[Designer]

But never empty the fluid. Replace from the top as you go. If you get air in the lines it is a PIA to get out.

Change the fluid annually, condensation will turn it brown.
Remove the fluid from the master with a turkey baster, wipe it clean. Don't touch the lever.
Refill with fresh fluid, bleed the line.
Have a beer and admire your work. JMO

These ^^^^

[bdschultz]

But never empty the fluid. Replace from the top as you go. If you get air in the lines it is a PIA to get out.

Thanks, sgtcall. I watched this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0_6jUWC6vtw

Fella's head is in the way but his process is clear and he also emphasizes keeping the reservoir full, or at least avoiding emptying it entirely. The Part 1 video is basically prep (covering bike, tools, etc.)

Any critiques of his method?

[bdschultz]

Change the fluid annually, condensation will turn it brown.
Remove the fluid from the master with a turkey baster, wipe it clean. Don't touch the lever.
Refill with fresh fluid, bleed the line.
Have a beer and admire your work. JMO

Thanks, nav. Good advice, all around.

[bdschultz]

Crack the bleeder open
Catch the old fluid in a bottle

You dont want to contaminate your brake fluid with the fluid that has been cooking in the caliper

Then flush with new fluid

Thanks, FA.

[bdschultz]

Intruder brake pads are easy, you don't even need to lift the bike. The only real tools you need are needle nose pliers and something to compress the pistons ( always used angle nose pliers and the old pad, let the hate begin, sometimes I used a C clamp). Just pull the cover off the caliber and then pull the cotter pins. The retaining bar slides right out then pull the pads. Compress the pistons and put new pads in.

I do a similar method to press back the Piston. I use a piece of Wood Shim (it's thin enough to fit there) that fits against the Rotor and then use a small Pry Bar to push the Piston back.

But first!...I check the Fluid Level of the Master Cylinder and use a old Turkey Baster to remove excess. So that when Both Pistons are pushed back, I don't have the excess Brake Fluid resisting the Pistons movement and/or Leaking out and all over things like Paint and stuff.

Thanks, Designer. Looks like I'm off to the thrift store for a turkey baster.

[bdschultz]

Anyone have recommendations for a jack or scissor lift, preferably under $100?

Also, I'm all ears on alternate solutions. I want to avoid Macguyvering (lots of) straps to the ceiling, stacking wood, etc. Looking for something rock solid with minimal fuss.

Thanks all.

I still use a home made lift that has never failed me. I think I invested about $5.00 in it. Plenty of videos on Youtube of how to build one and how it works.

Finally got around to making one of these, totally did the job.

On that note, while there's still rubbing on the rotor, the wheel seems to be spinning pretty well, so I may hold off on changing out the fluid. Indicator window shows it looking full and clear, and the previous owner (who was meticulous) said all the fluids should be good for a while.

Probably going to do an oil change and leave the rest until fall/winter.

[Designer]

Finally got around to making one of these, totally did the job.

On that note, while there's still rubbing on the rotor, the wheel seems to be spinning pretty well, so I may hold off on changing out the fluid. Indicator window shows it looking full and clear, and the previous owner (who was meticulous) said all the fluids should be good for a while.

Probably going to do an oil change and leave the rest until fall/winter.

This all makes good sense.

Go For It! And Ride.

[sgtcall]

Intruders always have a little rubbing on the rotor so you will hear some noise. You learn to live with it.

[FallenAngel]

On that note, while there's still rubbing on the rotor, the wheel seems to be spinning pretty well, so I may hold off on changing out the fluid. Indicator window shows it looking full and clear, and the previous owner (who was meticulous) said all the fluids should be good for a while.

Probably going to do an oil change and leave the rest until fall/winter.

Your pads will always make contact with the rotors
This helps to keep your rotor clean and the contact is minimal