Intruders-Alert

There is 60 spokes and 3 different types all in the one wheel. Its not an easy wheel to do but it does have a split hub to help.

It occurs to me that you didn't say which side you went down on. Also, have you tied the bars straight ahead, and looked at them from the side, to see if they are parallel, that is, is the visible rake angle the same on both sides?

navigator wrote:Compare yours with the measurements I posted above.
usually balancing a wheel does not require any spoke alignment changes.

When you say the hub is offset to the left side. Do you mean the rotor side? Also do you know how much it is offset? I'm at work today but will try to see to tonight.


Thanks,

No, the hub is offset to the left side of the bike, the spokes are closer to the forks on the left side (leaving room for the rotor on the bike.)

All measurements are approximate. They were taken with a straight edge and 6" steel scale.
Flange on right spacer faces the wheel. measurements were taken with EBC floating brake disc.
Hub to fork at the spacer, right side = 1.0"
Outside edge of rim to outside of brake disc = 1.2"
Outside edge of rim to outside of 4.5" hub left side = 0.2"
Exposed portion of axle between speedo drive and left fork = 0.7"

I went to remove the wheel to take measurements and when I did I noticed that the flanges in the speedo assembly are bent up and seem to be worn in the assembly. I wish I new how to add a picture to show what it looks like. It looks pushed in which would pull the fork in more.

Yup, there are 4 detents in the wheel, and two tangs on the drive.
If they weren't alighned when torqued, they would deform and cause issues.
You may be able to straighten the tangs, it should have a 90 degree bend on each end, to fit into the detents.
When properly mounted the axle preloads the wheel bearings and locks the housing to keep it from rotating.
The cable output should point towards the header exit on the jug to keep sharp bends out of the cable.

There are several on ebay, look at the pictures.
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R ... e&_sacat=0

navigator wrote:No, the hub is offset to the left side of the bike, the spokes are closer to the forks on the left side (leaving room for the rotor on the bike.)

All measurements are approximate. They were taken with a straight edge and 6" steel scale.
Flange on right spacer faces the wheel. measurements were taken with EBC floating brake disc.
Hub to fork at the spacer, right side = 1.0"
Outside edge of rim to outside of brake disc = 1.2"
Outside edge of rim to outside of 4.5" hub left side = 0.2"
Exposed portion of axle between speedo drive and left fork = 0.7"

So my measurement of the exposed axel between speedo and fork is about 4.5". I have removed the speedo and will try to straighten out tines and see if I gain back the opening.

I will update when I've tried it out. I appreciate all the Hemphill get this figured out soon.

Thanks,

Chad Malette wrote:

navigator wrote:No, the hub is offset to the left side of the bike, the spokes are closer to the forks on the left side (leaving room for the rotor on the bike.)

All measurements are approximate. They were taken with a straight edge and 6" steel scale.
Flange on right spacer faces the wheel. measurements were taken with EBC floating brake disc.
Hub to fork at the spacer, right side = 1.0"
Outside edge of rim to outside of brake disc = 1.2"
Outside edge of rim to outside of 4.5" hub left side = 0.2"
Exposed portion of axle between speedo drive and left fork = 0.7"

So my measurement of the exposed axel between speedo and fork is about 4.5". I have removed the speedo and will try to straighten out tines and see if I gain back the opening.

I will update when I've tried it out. I appreciate all the Hemphill get this figured out soon.

Thanks,

Would you happen to know the thickness of the speedo?
Outer body and inner shaft?

Chad Malette wrote:

navigator wrote:No, the hub is offset to the left side of the bike, the spokes are closer to the forks on the left side (leaving room for the rotor on the bike.)

All measurements are approximate. They were taken with a straight edge and 6" steel scale.
Flange on right spacer faces the wheel. measurements were taken with EBC floating brake disc.
Hub to fork at the spacer, right side = 1.0"
Outside edge of rim to outside of brake disc = 1.2"
Outside edge of rim to outside of 4.5" hub left side = 0.2"
Exposed portion of axle between speedo drive and left fork = 0.7"

So my measurement of the exposed axel between speedo and fork is about 4.5". I have removed the speedo and will try to straighten out tines and see if I gain back the opening.

I will update when I've tried it out. I appreciate all the Hemphill get this figured out soon.

Thanks,

. Sorry I meant 0.45".

At .45" you are definitely deforming the tangs and not preloading the bearings.
pull the unit and try to straighten them. Other wise replace it.
I do not know the thickness of the speedo drive without pulling it off.
While yours is off you can see the center spacer portion, that should contact the inner race of the bearing and the shoulder on the axle shaft.

The more I think about it...if the tangs on the speedo are correct, and the caliper lines up, and you still have .45" of exposed axle, one or both of the forks are bent inward...approx. 0.25"
The tangs should be bent towards the wheel to fall in the detents. compare yours with some google images.

Which side did the bike go down on?

The tangs have nothing to do with it. If they did not line up they just get flattened out.

Fred wrote:The tangs have nothing to do with it. If they did not line up they just get flattened out.

Precisely.

navigator wrote:The more I think about it...if the tangs on the speedo are correct, and the caliper lines up, and you still have .45" of exposed axle, one or both of the forks are bent inward...approx. 0.25"
The tangs should be bent towards the wheel to fall in the detents. compare yours with some google images.

Which side did the bike go down on?

Not sure if they are bent inwards due to the fact that I have to draw the forks together when I tighten the axel, before I put the wheel, spacer and speedo in there is a gap that it can slide in easily .What's the best way to check if the forks are bent?

With the front jacked up loosen the triple clamps on one of the forks and spin the top around in the trees whilst holding the bottom of the fork still. You will see the bottom of the fork move back and forth if the forks are bent.

hillsy wrote:With the front jacked up loosen the triple clamps on one of the forks and spin the top around in the trees whilst holding the bottom of the fork still. You will see the bottom of the fork move back and forth if the forks are bent.

Should I remove the fender also?

Chad Malette wrote:

hillsy wrote:With the front jacked up loosen the triple clamps on one of the forks and spin the top around in the trees whilst holding the bottom of the fork still. You will see the bottom of the fork move back and forth if the forks are bent.

Should I remove the fender also?

Remove the wheel and fender, do as hillsy suggested.

I loosened the clamps and spun the inner tubes one side at a time and didn't see any movement at all. I did notice however that the head of the axel bolt is slightly damaged and may not be able to draw for enough into the fork tip. I will try to smooth out the slight flare and see what happens.

Chad Malette wrote:I loosened the clamps and spun the inner tubes one side at a time and didn't see any movement at all. I did notice however that the head of the axel bolt is slightly damaged and may not be able to draw for enough into the fork tip. I will try to smooth out the slight flare and see what happens.

So after filing down the end of the axle the bolt slide through properly and the wheel is now centered. Thanks to everyone for the help.

Fred wrote:Crikey , the machined section of the axle shoulder was damaged and would not slide into the fork tube pinch section. He continued to wind in the axle until the fork tube was pushed so far towards the wheel that it bent the fork over and touched the tyre.

The fork tube would have been held up to the speedo gear, the wheel would not have moved even if it had not been jammed on the tyre.

The axel bolt was all the way into the pinch section, it was stuck just where it is flush with the edge. It needed to be ressesed about a 1/4" into the pinch section.