YoDude wrote:Well lets see...I have a car I haven't' changed the oil in for over 4 years, does that count for anything? Still runs great! Course it leaks enough that it ALWAYS has fresh oil in it too!
Yo-
I had one of those! Only changed the filter every 4-5,000 miles. Averaged a qt of oil every 3-400 miles. Front and rear seals, valve covers and pan leaked like mad. Always knew when it needed oil, the gauge would start to fluctuate, at speed, never held more than 5psi at idle. Kept thinking the thing would blow up, but it just kept running. Finally gave in and pulled the engine and changed the seals/gaskets. Damn thing ran for about 5,000 miles and broke a piston at about 80, but it hadn't used a qt of oil...
2 days of work and 50 bucks down the drain. 1967, 50 bucks was a LOT of money for me.
I can't seem to win the lottery. I think I have used up all of my good luck riding motorcycles.
I usually try to still change oil & filter (filter is aftermarket from Honda) out at 3k.
It runs & shifts better if I do not let it go too long.
I have used Rotella T in the past but started using this in Goldwing & I can tell the oil velocity is better for longer.
Well according to the poll...more owners are using dino oil instead of synthetic.....and 3K and 3.5K miles is the norm between oil and filter changes.
That makes sense ......
I've done some research on the differences of synthetic and dino oil and the differences are stark , at least in my opinion...
And here is what I've found...
Conventional and synthetic oils begin in the ground. But that’s where the similarities end.
Conventional oil is a mixture of mainly pentanes and heavier hydrocarbons recoverable at a well from an underground reservoir and liquid at atmospheric pressure and temperature. Unlike bitumen, conventional oil flows through a well without stimulation and through a pipeline without processing or dilution.
Synthetic oil is a lubricant consisting of chemical compounds that are artificially made. Synthetic lubricants can be manufactured using chemically modified petroleum components rather than whole crude oil, but can also be synthesized from other raw materials.
Synthetic oil is not only refined but also distilled, purified and broken down into its basic molecules. This process not only removes more impurities from the crude oil but also enables individual molecules in the oil to be tailored to the demands of modern engines. These customized molecules provide higher levels of protection and performance than conventional oils. But the synthetic base oil is only half the story. The correct blend additives must go into the mix to create the oil.
Keep your engine cleaner
As oil circulates through your engine it can pick up deposits. Over time, conventional oils can sometimes form sludge, which can reduce your engine's efficiency and, ultimately, reduce the life of your engine.
Offer greater engine wear protection
Engine parts are in constant contact with each other. They’re also moving at high speeds. In the extreme environment of your engine, components can wear and break down. Your motor oil is the protective barrier between these components. As conventional oils break down, their ability to prevent engine wear diminishes.
Flow better in low temperatures
When your bike or car sits for awhile (let’s say overnight) the oil settles. But, when you fire up the ignition, it begins flowing through critical engine parts to protect against friction. With conventional oils, it takes more time until they are able to flow smoothly through the engine. During the cold winter months, or if you live in an extremely cold environment, this flow process takes even longer. Synthetic motor oils, however, are engineered to flow quickly even at low temperatures, and they start protecting your engine right after you start your bike or car.
Protect better at high temperatures
When running, engines are hot. Really, really hot. Over time, the high temperatures in your engine can cause conventional motor oils to break down or evaporate exposing your engine to wear. Full synthetic motor oils are engineered to resist these high temperatures, which is especially important if you’re driving in hot climates.
Pros:
Better high and low temperature performance. They act more like a thinner oil at lower temperatures and like a thicker oil at higher temperatures, without the disadvantages of multi viscosity oils like 10W40. Especially useful when initially starting.
Reduced problems with sludge, breaking-down, particularly in very high temperatures like in the turbo.
Better lubrication properties.
Extended change intervals.
Cons:
Higher cost.
Too slippery for properly seating parts during initial break-in.
duc, sequere, aut de via decede
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C-D may relate to this as he has owned more real old cars/trucks than me.When I had my 36 Ply coupe in the mid 60s as a second car it was all stock in drive line but for the 14 front and big 15 rear tires/wheels I had on it. Mopar had same lug pattern longer than most so easy to find late model wheels to fit.
Back to oil I ran 30 weight ND in it because the idea with all the old guys back then was if you had a all stock old motor the detergent oil would break up the years of sludge from the old oil. This could lead to leaks the sludge layers had sealed.Ones as old as me will recall in places that had a winter we ran 30 w in the summer and 20 w in the winter.All so had lots of cars/trucks that were six volt. Chevy went to 12 volt in 1955 and Ford in 56.To show how tight the old Harleys were me and a lot of others ran 70 weight in the pans and early shovels. [emoji2]
PCC wrote:I usually try to still change oil & filter (filter is aftermarket from Honda) out at 3k.
It runs & shifts better if I do not let it go too long.
I have used Rotella T in the past but started using this in Goldwing & I can tell the oil velocity is better for longer.
Thanks for posting that brand. I had not seen it before where I live. I may try it because, I have been using a 50-50 mix of Castrol in my cars and SUVs and have not had any oil related problems since I started doing this in the late 80s. I like the Shell Rotella Oil as well, but I may just try ... after a search I see it is in a few odd places about 10 miles from me. [emoji106]
