Intruders-Alert

hillsy v2 wrote: ↑

Wed Dec 14, 2022 3:59 pm

If you are going to hook up the electrics and try to turn the motor over either disconnect the fuel pump or flush it out while you are there. Run it dry after this amount of time and you could destroy it.

good point. thanks for reminder. I need to do that before passing electric through.

I received the rebuild kits, so got the clutch slave and master put back together. I also unplugged the fuel pump. when I do get a chance to power up the bike, I won't have fuel connected. I also will have the plugs out. My intention is to check electricals and to confirm that the motor turns.

Once I confirm all that, I'll re-install the carbs (with new fuel lines I need to get). I'll try to get it to run and will probably have some carb sync work to do. somewhere along the line I'll replace fork fluid. it should be at a point to do some test rides on the street then.

ncdave wrote: ↑

Mon Dec 19, 2022 7:50 am

I received the rebuild kits, so got the clutch slave and master put back together. I also unplugged the fuel pump. when I do get a chance to power up the bike, I won't have fuel connected. I also will have the plugs out. My intention is to check electricals and to confirm that the motor turns.

Good Progress there! Also good to hear you are getting to what you had planned to do;

ncdave wrote: ↑

Wed Dec 14, 2022 11:37 am

I might even hook up a battery and see if I can gently crank the motor over.

If you are concerned about your Fuel Pump,...why not flush it with some gas and then connect it to see if it works? To find out if it will work for you. might not be bad to check it out now to make sure it is working before you can make the bike run. Since the bike has only 6k Miles on it, and all the rust happened after it was parked, it's pretty much likely that the fuel passages within it are not all that dirty, if al all. If any thing is amiss, it would be probably the electrical aspects.

ncdave wrote: ↑

Mon Dec 19, 2022 7:50 am

......Once I confirm all that, I'll re-install the carbs (with new fuel lines I need to get). I'll try to get it to run and will probably have some carb sync work to do. somewhere along the line I'll replace fork fluid. it should be at a point to do some test rides on the street then.

In all the experiences I have read, everyone had to perform a Carb Balance when the Carbs has been removed. Have you ever done it before?

Designer wrote: ↑

Mon Dec 19, 2022 8:06 am

If you are concerned about your Fuel Pump,...why not flush it with some gas and then connect it to see if it works? To find out if it will work for you. might not be bad to check it out now to make sure it is working before you can make the bike run. Since the bike has only 6k Miles on it, and all the rust happened after it was parked, it's pretty much likely that the fuel passages within it are not all that dirty, if al all. If any thing is amiss, it would be probably the electrical aspects.

In all the experiences I have read, everyone had to perform a Carb Balance when the Carbs has been removed. Have you ever done it before?

good idea for the fuel pump. I'm concerned about it being clogged.

I've done carb sync on an older VX800 I used to have. I really enjoyed that bike until a friend of my son's wrecked it. That's another story.

I don't know if your are getting OEM fuel lines but if you are using generic fuel line for the rebuild some people have installed the connection on the bottom of the tank in reverse to make it easier to run lines that are not pre bent. I am sure one of the other guys can better explain and give you some pros and cons of doing it.

ncdave wrote: ↑

Mon Dec 19, 2022 1:57 pm

good idea for the fuel pump. I'm concerned about it being clogged.

You could easily undo all the good work you had done on the carbs by running the fuel pump as is and possibly filling the carbs with crap.

Take the fuel pump off and flush it by connecting to a remote fuel source / power. There's a procedure in the manual to do this and test the rate of flow.

ncdave wrote: ↑

Mon Dec 19, 2022 1:57 pm

Designer wrote: ↑

Mon Dec 19, 2022 8:06 am

If you are concerned about your Fuel Pump,...why not flush it with some gas and then connect it to see if it works? To find out if it will work for you. might not be bad to check it out now to make sure it is working before you can make the bike run. Since the bike has only 6k Miles on it, and all the rust happened after it was parked, it's pretty much likely that the fuel passages within it are not all that dirty, if al all. If any thing is amiss, it would be probably the electrical aspects.

In all the experiences I have read, everyone had to perform a Carb Balance when the Carbs has been removed. Have you ever done it before?

good idea for the fuel pump. I'm concerned about it being clogged.

I'm confident a good flushing with New Gas as I mention will make sure all is well in the Fuel Path through it. You might even leave it electrically connected and thus test it for it's response.

ncdave wrote: ↑

Mon Dec 19, 2022 1:57 pm

...I've done carb sync on an older VX800 I used to have......

Good! Though it not a difficult procedure, having done it before really helps to ensure sooner success..... ( no surprises there, eh?)

I turned the tank petcock around and it is much easier to get the lines ran since I used after market hose, a huge savings over the cost of stock lines.

The main tank pickup tube, inside the tank, is a tight fit and was easy to turn the other way and has worked great for thousands of miles and a number of years. The reserve pickup doesn't require any changes.

Keep in mind that you need to make sure you have the hoses attached to the correct output nipples. It is easy to get confused and get them hooked up backwards.

The only real issue is the tank shutoff valve will now be pointed to the front and is a little harder to get to.

Herb wrote: ↑

Mon Dec 19, 2022 5:37 pm

Thanks Herb

Something I forgot to mention. When I have to work under the tank. I have enough slack in the fuel lines I can pull the tank and hang it from a rafter in my shop with a cargo strap. Plenty of room to work, do a sync, etc.

Just make sure the tank is less than half full or gas leaks out of the filler cap. Guess how I figured that out...

thanks for all the comments and ideas. you guys all get gold stars for the help you've given me!

That reminds me...I gotta call and check on my tank.

ncdave wrote: ↑

Tue Dec 20, 2022 7:27 am

thanks for all the comments and ideas. you guys all get gold stars for the help you've given me!

You are most Welcome! We are here for you and I personally am excited you are resurrecting my FAVORITE motorcycle. The More Of Them On the Road, The Better.

ncdave wrote: ↑

Tue Dec 20, 2022 7:27 am

.....That reminds me...I gotta call and check on my tank.

I was going to ask you about this. Since there was SO much rust, I wanted to hear if there was a thinning/weakening of the Metal elsewhere in the tank beyond just what you discovered.

On a footnote, when I mentioned this about the 6k miles on the bike;

Designer wrote: ↑

Mon Dec 19, 2022 8:06 am

If you are concerned about your Fuel Pump,...why not flush it with some gas and then connect it to see if it works? To find out if it will work for you. might not be bad to check it out now to make sure it is working before you can make the bike run. Since the bike has only 6k Miles on it, and all the rust happened after it was parked, it's pretty much likely that the fuel passages within it are not all that dirty, if al all. If any thing is amiss, it would be probably the electrical aspects.

I was talking about that since it had only that little amount of Miles,. there's a small likelihood that during that time there was much of a chance for very much dirt/crud to enter and build up.

Designer wrote: ↑

Tue Dec 20, 2022 7:41 am

I was talking about that since it had only that little amount of Miles,. there's a small likelihood that during that time there was much of a chance for very much dirt/crud to enter and build up.

unless someone along the way actually dumped some gas in and tried to start it. it's definitely an unknown, so better to check it out.

ncdave wrote: ↑

Tue Dec 20, 2022 10:06 am

Designer wrote: ↑

Tue Dec 20, 2022 7:41 am

I was talking about that since it had only that little amount of Miles,. there's a small likelihood that during that time there was much of a chance for very much dirt/crud to enter and build up.

unless someone along the way actually dumped some gas in and tried to start it. it's definitely an unknown, so better to check it out.

YesSirReee! Always good. So please,...let us know what you see when you Flush & Test your Fuel Pump.
Enquiring Minds want to know,.....you know.

Any hints on getting the clutch system primed so I can bleed it? Went through the process in the Clymer manual but no luck. I have the line bolt out of the master and can't even get fluid to push out. I've had the master apart twice now checking and rechecking that I installed everything correctly.

ncdave wrote: ↑

Wed Dec 21, 2022 5:34 pm

Any hints on getting the clutch system primed so I can bleed it? Went through the process in the Clymer manual but no luck. I have the line bolt out of the master and can't even get fluid to push out. I've had the master apart twice now checking and rechecking that I installed everything correctly.

Are you sure the holes in the MC reservoir are clear? They are pretty small but you can poke a single wire brush bristle through them. Cut off a single bristle and push it about 3/8 into the end of a matchstick. The matchstick is then the handle.

As far as bleeding goes I use a syringe - you can forward and reverse bleed with a syringe as opposed to a MityVac which only works one way.

ncdave wrote: ↑

Wed Dec 21, 2022 5:34 pm

Any hints on getting the clutch system primed so I can bleed it? Went through the process in the Clymer manual but no luck. I have the line bolt out of the master and can't even get fluid to push out. I've had the master apart twice now checking and rechecking that I installed everything correctly.

What hillsy said.

Also NightWolf has some good bleeding write ups on his site. I don't think he is active anymore but the site is still up. Go to Wrenching Tips.

https://www.intruderalert.ca/indexa.htm

ncdave wrote: ↑

Wed Dec 21, 2022 5:34 pm

Any hints on getting the clutch system primed so I can bleed it? Went through the process in the Clymer manual but no luck. I have the line bolt out of the master and can't even get fluid to push out. I've had the master apart twice now checking and rechecking that I installed everything correctly.

I have used the Sigle Wire Bristle from a Wire brush effectively. Just make sure you use a Wire small enough to clear the smallest hole (the pressure release hole nearest the Banjo Bolt). Often you will find the Bristle size you seek is found on those smaller brass Brushes.
And,..no worries about using A Mity Vac and drawing the fluid down with Gravity assisting you. It has been an effective tool for over 50 years now, and it works juuuust fine. Also, using this method will draw the New Clean Fluid through the Just-Cleaned Master Cylinder and will clean out any Debris/Crud/Etc in the Hydraulic Line as it does. Pushing the Fluid up against gravity will likely push up any possible Dirt/Crud/Etc. back up in to the Master Cylinder and clog the small holes you just cleaned out!

Just to make things easier for you,...here a video of how to get success with the Mity Vac the first time.

Brake Bleed Video

thanks guys. I'm sure the larger hole is fine because I can clearly see through it. I'll double check the smaller hole to be sure. thanks for the wire tip. I had not thought of that. perhaps that's my problem.

For reference, I have a mity-vac. usually works fine for bleeding, but I'm just having a heck of a time getting it started.

ncdave wrote: ↑

Thu Dec 22, 2022 7:03 am

thanks guys. I'm sure the larger hole is fine because I can clearly see through it. I'll double check the smaller hole to be sure. thanks for the wire tip. I had not thought of that. perhaps that's my problem.

You are Most welcome!

Hmmm. If the Larger of the two Master Cylinder holes is not clogged, then I wonder why you are having this problem:

ncdave wrote: ↑

Thu Dec 22, 2022 7:03 am

..... For reference, I have a mity-vac. usually works fine for bleeding, but I'm just having a heck of a time getting it started.

Why is because any fluid should pass right through that Unclogged hole and be sucked down through the Line. Could it be you have a Collapsed/Blocked Hydraulic Line?