My Resurrection Thread

[ncdave]

ok folks. I picked up this bike yesterday. it's only got 6k miles on it, but we all know what that means. LOTS of TLC needed to get this baby back on the road.

The tank is rusted and has pinhole leaks around the bottom. I'm going to have to strip down the paint there and see if it can be repaired. if it can, then I'll have to clean and coat the interior of the tank to take care of the surface rust. I've used POR-15 in the past. that's the likely direction.

brakes and clutch are soft. I haven't taken the caps off to see what it looks like, but I expect master cylinders, slave cylinder and calipers are going to have to be stripped and cleaned. I'll do the usual fluid changes as well, including the forks. I may well rebuild them. I would suspect the seals are aged and likely to fail. There is a bit of rust/pitting on the fork tubes, so it's got to be addressed.]

Carbs are the final issue. I will probably start on these first. I could use some help from everyone with the how-to's for this. I plan to keep jetting and exhaust stock. I found a thread about jetting, so will likely use that. the big question is how to get the carbs out for service. Things are pretty tight in there.

if anyone has any threads, pictures of youtube videos for assistance, I'd appreciate it.

[ncdave]

pictures of the bike....

[ncdave]

what are these plugs for?

[ncdave]

carbs....help!

[Herb]

First, the 2 plugs you ask about, they go to the ignition module which is bolted to the bottom of the seat.

Second, the carbs really are not that hard to get out. They are only held by the clamps on the engine side and the filter side. The hardest part of pulling the carbs is dealing with the cables but getting the main throttle cable loose is pretty easy as it can be done with the carb in your hand.

The shop manual pretty good instructions on the actual cleaning and adjustments.

[Designer]

I see now why the New Tank I suggested to you won't work!

your 1400 isn't Red/Black!

Ooops!

[hillsy v2]

Carbs are always fun (not). Any bike that's been sitting for extended periods will have varnish / crud in the carbs - and especially the pilot / idle circuits which can be troublesome to get cleaned (compressed air and carb cleaner is a must). There is an idle mixture screw on each carb which is covered by a plug from the factory - you will need to get these out to properly clean the circuits.

Interesting that the ignitor is gone - hopefully you have that in a box of parts?

[ncdave]

Carbs are always fun (not). Any bike that's been sitting for extended periods will have varnish / crud in the carbs - and especially the pilot / idle circuits which can be troublesome to get cleaned (compressed air and carb cleaner is a must). There is an idle mixture screw on each carb which is covered by a plug from the factory - you will need to get these out to properly clean the circuits.

Interesting that the ignitor is gone - hopefully you have that in a box of parts?

if you mean the ignition module, I did check under the seat. it's there. the seats and tank were removed when I picked the bike up. I didn't think to look under the seat. always learning somethi8ng new.

[hillsy v2]

Carbs are always fun (not). Any bike that's been sitting for extended periods will have varnish / crud in the carbs - and especially the pilot / idle circuits which can be troublesome to get cleaned (compressed air and carb cleaner is a must). There is an idle mixture screw on each carb which is covered by a plug from the factory - you will need to get these out to properly clean the circuits.

Interesting that the ignitor is gone - hopefully you have that in a box of parts?

if you mean the ignition module, I did check under the seat. it's there. the seats and tank were removed when I picked the bike up. I didn't think to look under the seat. always learning somethi8ng new.

Well that's good news - they're not cheap.

[Herb]

Carbs are always fun (not). Any bike that's been sitting for extended periods will have varnish / crud in the carbs - and especially the pilot / idle circuits which can be troublesome to get cleaned (compressed air and carb cleaner is a must). There is an idle mixture screw on each carb which is covered by a plug from the factory - you will need to get these out to properly clean the circuits.

Interesting that the ignitor is gone - hopefully you have that in a box of parts?

if you mean the ignition module, I did check under the seat. it's there. the seats and tank were removed when I picked the bike up. I didn't think to look under the seat. always learning somethi8ng new.

Learning is a good thing. It's when we quit learning that we become stupid.

[Designer]

pictures of the bike....

When I zoomed in on your Pictures and looked at them in more detail, it appears you have a quite clean 1400 there...Given the age and history you mention.

Herb mentions the Shop Manual,.. Do you have a copy of the Factory Suzuki Shop Manual?
I can speak from experience that it saved my Many Times Over it's cost in time and monetary expenses.
The pictures are THE BEST, and that alone is worth it,... and the descriptions Detailed, Accurate and Exacting.

Herb,...IIRC, didn't you have a PDF have a copy (or something like that) for him?

[ncdave]

pictures of the bike....

When I zoomed in on your Pictures and looked at them in more detail, it appears you have a quite clean 1400 there...Given the age and history you mention.

Herb mentions the Shop Manual,.. Do you have a copy of the Factory Suzuki Shop Manual?
I can speak from experience that it saved my Many Times Over it's cost in time and monetary expenses.
The pictures are THE BEST, and that alone is worth it,... and the descriptions Detailed, Accurate and Exacting.

Herb,...IIRC, didn't you have a PDF have a copy (or something like that) for him?

I's kind of a 20 footer. there's some pitting on many of the chrome pieces. some of the cast metal is rough and the clutch side cover which is chrome is peeling. That's more cosmetic though. First step is to get it running. then I'll think about prettying it up.

I had not thought about a PDF version. I've found them on the internet for other bikes. I'll look around and see what I find. thanks!

[sgtcall]

Check out Hagar Moto on youtube, he has great videos on the Intruder.

https://www.youtube.com/@HagarMoto/videos

[Herb]

I have a PDF manual I can send you. I can't send it on a PM but if you will PM me your email I will send you a copy.

[ncdave]

Regarding the rust in the tank and possibility of that having been passed through the fuel system. I do not see any filtering of fuel passed the basic filter on the end of the fuel sub-cock which is in the tank. What's the possibility that rust has gone through the fuel pump and is it possible the fuel pump is compromised? Anyone with some experience around rust problems in the fuel delivery?

[Herb]

Regarding the rust in the tank and possibility of that having been passed through the fuel system. I do not see any filtering of fuel passed the basic filter on the end of the fuel sub-cock which is in the tank. What's the possibility that rust has gone through the fuel pump and is it possible the fuel pump is compromised? Anyone with some experience around rust problems in the fuel delivery?

A very good chance that it will be a problem with small pieces of rust. If rust is present the whole fuel system needs to be cleaned/blown out with air. The fuel pump carbs included.

If fuel hasn't been put in the tank and it hasn't been cranked over then it would be doubtful that any got into the system.

[hillsy v2]

I suggest you put an inline fliter (cardboard element) after the fuel tap and before the fuel pump once you get this all back together. Suzuki only put the strainer on the fuel tap on these bikes - the later LC used a proper filter.

It's cheap insurance on a bike with a fuel pump.

[ncdave]

so, I've been looking around a lot for tanks and parts. I found MotoSport.com who actually listed a price for an OEM tank. I contacted them and they SAID they can get a tank. I'm shocked, and also cautious. 750 bucks. What's the likelyhood? hmmmmm

I also found a "new" fuel cock online. Mine is missing the screens and looks pretty crappy. for 35 bucks, I went ahead and bought it.

I also found a guy from Wisconsin advertising carb rebuilding on ebay. I'm going to go that route and have them professionally done.

This and a battery should allow me to get the bike running. I'll do plugs and oil too prior to start up. Then we'll see if there's life in the old beast!

[Designer]

so, I've been looking around a lot for tanks and parts. I found MotoSport.com who actually listed a price for an OEM tank. I contacted them and they SAID they can get a tank. I'm shocked, and also cautious. 750 bucks. What's the likelyhood? hmmmmm

Do they have it in the correct color you need?

If so, that might not be such a bad deal.

To repaint a tank properly is likely to run you $400.

Add in the Repair Work on yours and/or purchase price for another used Tank, and your pretty much equal in price.

[hillsy v2]

If this was my bike I'd be getting it running before I started shelling out big $$$ on new tanks, etc.

They are pretty solid engines..... but without hearing it...you never know....it might have been parked for a reason other than just not using it....