My Resurrection Thread

[sgtcall]

+1 for Hliisy. Get it together and set up a jug to feed the fuel to the carbs and make sure it runs before dropping cash on the tank. You will have to have the tank off to synch the carbs anyway. I would also take the thank to a welder and see if you can get it welded. Paint is another story, if your are the bright and shiny kind of guy paint is going to cost. Or you could spend $50 on a couple cans of John Deere tractor spray paint and do the entire bike in black.

[Herb]

+1 for Hliisy. Get it together and set up a jug to feed the fuel to the carbs and make sure it runs before dropping cash on the tank. You will have to have the tank off to synch the carbs anyway. I would also take the thank to a welder and see if you can get it welded. Paint is another story, if your are the bright and shiny kind of guy paint is going to cost. Or you could spend $50 on a couple cans of John Deere tractor spray paint and do the entire bike in black.

I painted mine with hammered siver paint...

[ncdave]

with only 6k miles on the odometer, this one is a bit of a survivor. While needing some cleaning, all the paint is in very good condition. The issue with the tank is rust from sitting. I got the carbs removed last night. they are a mess. the rear one did have some great varnish still in the bowl. the front was completely seized. the butterfly inside was rusted and I couldn't even move it by whacking on it with a screwdriver. I'm pretty sure I'll have to replace that just to get it running.

As for the tank, yeah, it might be a bit pre-mature, but I have faith. I am the third owner and know the first owner, so I have a bit of history on the bike. it was an old guy and was not abused. it was just put up due to lack of riding and never uncovered. I got it so cheap though, I don't think I'll be upside down on it.

I hate to have to take the balancing cable off between the two carbs. from what I've researched, that makes a good bit more work once I get things back together. However, I don't think there's any way that front carb can be brought back to live.

the carbs were easier to get off this bike than others I've owned though. I'm learning as I go and referring back to the service manual to understand the bike better.

[ncdave]

One of the things I haven't researched yet is the pollution prevention components. Are there opinions about removing all that stuff? Looks like hoses into the top end of the cylinders and some other components buried down under the rear carb, with linkage and hoses.

[Designer]

with only 6k miles on the odometer, this one is a bit of a survivor. While needing some cleaning, all the paint is in very good condition. The issue with the tank is rust from sitting. I got the carbs removed last night. they are a mess. the rear one did have some great varnish still in the bowl. the front was completely seized. the butterfly inside was rusted and I couldn't even move it by whacking on it with a screwdriver. I'm pretty sure I'll have to replace that just to get it running.

As for the tank, yeah, it might be a bit pre-mature, but I have faith. I am the third owner and know the first owner, so I have a bit of history on the bike. it was an old guy and was not abused. it was just put up due to lack of riding and never uncovered. I got it so cheap though, I don't think I'll be upside down on it.

As you had said, with only 6k miles on it, you are pretty much safe to restore this one. Especially since you have the Provenance/History of the First and Only original owner.

Though there are more cables than usual ( Balance Cable added to Throttle) you'll find that they aren't too hard to remove/reinstall.
It may seem a bit intimidating now, but after done, you'll see what I mean.

About the front carb, while I haven't seen it's condition,. have you considered letting Penetrating Oil do some of the work for you in freeing it up?
The Butterfly is Brass and the Carb Body is Aluminum so the destructive action that is Rust is not an issue. Carbs aren't cheap, and you are spending alot with the Tank, so I am wanting to save you some $$$ if possible. .

Can you post a picture of your Front Carb please?

[hillsy v2]

Does the motor turn over? Rusted out tank and seized carbs is a bit of a worry. Might be a good idea to get yourself a borescope and have a look in the cylinders before you try and crank it over (if you haven't already done so).

[ncdave]

Does the motor turn over? Rusted out tank and seized carbs is a bit of a worry. Might be a good idea to get yourself a borescope and have a look in the cylinders before you try and crank it over (if you haven't already done so).

have not tried cranking or anything yet. I had thought about pulling the side cover and turning it over by hand initially to see if it's free.

@Designer, will posts pics of the front carb later today.

[Herb]

Since it has been a long time since it ran I would pull the spark plugs and spray some penatrating oil in the cylinders, I prefer PB Blaster because it leaves an oily film. Let it sit for a day or 2 before trying to turn it over.

[hillsy v2]

Penetrating oil is a good idea but you can get a borescope for your phone for a few bucks and they are really good for this sort of thing. The one I got is only 6mm in diameter so it goes easily into a spark plug hole.

[ncdave]

carb pictures

front:




rear:

[hillsy v2]

Carb looks pretty nasty - especially with the rust on the butterfly shaft / evidence of moisture.

Can you have a look into the intake port on the engine? Is the valve rusty / open? If so you want to proceed with caution in relation to turning the motor over - there would more than likely be rust in the bore.

[Designer]

Hi ncdave. From what I see, you will have a bit of time spent on getting things moving properly again on your carbs.

It's not that your Carbs are not reusable/ rebuildable,...but I would say the first step would be to use a good bit of penetrating Oil on them and let that product work it's "magic" before deciding on what needs replacement, or is reusable. First I'd take of what rust you can from the Throttle Shaft, exposing the two butterfly Screws so the Penetrating Oil can get in there ASAP.

Would you post some Pix of your progress?

[hillsy v2]

Carbs are probably the least of your worries right now. I wouldn't go sending them off for rebuilds until you have looked into the motor some more.

[sgtcall]

Wasn't there some thing about boiling the carbs in lemon juice to clean them out. Hopefully someone can elaborate on that.

[Herb]

I have had pretty good luck with an ultrasonic cleaner using a citrus cleaner. I had one off of an old dirt bike that had sat outside for 3-4 years. I used the ultrasonic cleaner before I took it apart and again on all the parts after I used penatrating oil to help get it apart. blew it out and put it back together and the bike ran good.

The advantage to using the ultrasonic and citrus cleaner was that it didn't destroy the orings.

[hillsy v2]

Wasn't there some thing about boiling the carbs in lemon juice to clean them out. Hopefully someone can elaborate on that.

I think that was more about the appearance of the carb bodies than anything else (??) There used to be Berrymans Carb Dip in the US which was supposedly unreal but they either stopped selling it or changed the formula because it was too toxic.

Ultrasonic cleaners are really cheap now and are pretty good. Still they can struggle getting crud out of the pilot circuit passageways but combined with oldskool compressed air and carb cleaner it's a lot easier nowadays.

I use 50/50 water and white vinegar in mine to clean jets and anything brass - they come out like new.

[ncdave]

I'm going to be saying "thanks" a lot on this thread for everyone's help, but thanks for the thoughts.

I ordered a bore scope for my phone. I'll have a look through the intake, but also through the plug hole at the cylinder itself.

[Designer]

I'm going to be saying "thanks" a lot on this thread for everyone's help, but thanks for the thoughts. I ordered a bore scope for my phone. I'll have a look through the intake, but also through the plug hole at the cylinder itself.

You are welcome, Dave. That's why we are here...to help our fellow riders.

While you are waiting for the Scope, the Prep Work on your Carb(s) can be moving things forward for you. Penetrating Oil will need it's proper time to do it's work for you,.....and it costs little, both in time and Money. How can there be a downside to that when it makes the Good Use of your waiting time?

While we are looking at performing a full disassembly and rebuild, I have found that the Berryman Chem-Dip Carburetor Parts Cleaner does a mightyfine job. It's safe for use on plastic, rubber, and vinyl, and it The highly rated Dip cleaner by many hundreds of rebuilders.

Keep us In The Loop on your Progress.

[ncdave]

results from the scope. rear intake, valve and cylinder looked fine except that it's running rich and there was quite a bit of soot buildup on the top of the piston. walls looked good.

front, the intake and appears the valve are a mess. However, the cylinder walls appear to be ok. again, soot, but nothing indicating rust.

[Designer]

results from the scope. rear intake, valve and cylinder looked fine except that it's running rich and there was quite a bit of soot buildup on the top of the piston. walls looked good. front, the intake and appears the valve are a mess. However, the cylinder walls appear to be ok. again, soot, but nothing indicating rust.

That's kinda-sorta what I thought you might see.

Tell me, when you say this;

.....front, the intake and appears the valve are a mess. ....

What do you think is it that makes you say they are "A Mess"? Inquiring Minds Wanna Know,....You know .