Winter Projects

[rocksandhammers]

Winter is unfortunately here again, and I've already had a few weeks of staring longingly at my bike as it sits up on the jack in the garage. I have a few projects that I want to knock out this season and I was hoping for some feedback on a few. For reference my bike is an '06 VS800

1. Fork Oil Replacement

I've got almost 50k on the odometer and as far as I know the fork oil has never been done before so I figured it's time. I also want to do it just because I've personally never done it. I've got the correct oil, but while reading through the manual it mentions several "special tools" needed for the task ("T" handle, Attachment "D" and "L" type hexagon wrench set), some of which are listed as not available in the US. My question is do I need these specific tools, or are there work arounds using tools commonly available? If I need these specific tools, where would be the best place to find them? Also, should I go ahead and replace all the rubber seals and O-rings while I'm digging into it? Any other general tips for this are appreciated since it will be my first go of it.

2. Front Brake Caliper

A year or two ago I had the head on one of the screws for the dust cover on the front caliper break off. I've had it looking pretty ghetto for months now just taping the cover on since I didn't have the time to get the broken screw out. I planned on removing the front caliper and trying to drill the broken screw out? It's lodged in there pretty good so I don't think it's possible to strong arm it out, but the screw is pretty small so I imagine this is going to be a frustrating process. I don't know if I have any questions about this but I've had limited experience removing broken bolts/screws so general tips are welcome.

3. Touching Up the Spokes

I noticed towards the end of this riding season the spokes on both wheels are starting to develop some minor rust. Any recommendations on chemicals or methods I should use in touching them up and getting them nice and shiny again?

4. Carb Cleaning

This will be the only procedure I've actually done before, but I figured I'd list it anyway. I cleaned the carbs about two winters ago, but since I'll have the time I figured I'd take them out and get them nice and cleaned up and everything to spec. My only real question is related to the cables during removal/installation. In the manual it shows the cables off the carbs joining with the main throttle cable off the handlebars in some sort of plastic piece. The manual makes it look like the plastic bit should come apart and I can disconnect the carbs from the throttle body without taking them off the carb itself. For whatever reason last time I removed the carbs I couldn't for the life of me get that plastic piece to come apart and ended up taking the cables off at the carb end, resulting in more than a few hours of getting them synced just right afterwards. I plan on doing a sync when I reinstall them, but it would be nice if they would be close to where I left them so it isn't a major endeavor. Just wondering if there was a trick to getting that plastic bit off.

Going to be traveling a lot the next week or two, so I may be slow to respond to comments on here, but thanks in advance for any info or advice.

[WintrSol]

1. You don't have to disassemble the fork just to replace the oil; stop on page 9-14 of the manual, where it says to pour out the oil, and remove the spring, then skip to page 9-17 FORK OIL, and refill. If you want, you can pour in a small amount of clean oil and pump to flush out any old still in there, then pour that out. I made a fork level gauge with a brass tube, and a plug with a locking collar that fits the tube glued to it, the kind of collar with a set screw. Measure the length of the tube below the plug, lock it in place, then suck out any excess oil with a MityVac type tool. Replace the spring and back on the bike. Do one at a time, to make it easier, then realign the forks with the axle, and done.

2. Use a center punch, and tap it against the screw center with a small hammer. Then, go to a tool store and get a screw remover set - the kind that is a backwards drill. If you have a hammer drill, it works better; you can usually get one at Harbor Freight.

4. If the carbs are working fine, I just treat the gas with a double dose of Seafoam to keep them that way. I would only deep clean a carb if having mixture problems. But if you really want to take them off, use a fine tip Sharpie to mark the threads, so you have a good starting point for the sync.

[Travlin]

One of the best upgrades I've made on my 1400 was Progressive springs in the forks. You will already have the springs in your hands, might drop new ones in.

[navigator]

One of the best upgrades I've made on my 1400 was Progressive springs in the forks. You will already have the springs in your hands, might drop new ones in.

+1, they cost around $70 for the 800.
You will replace the stock spacers with a shorter piece of PVC pipe.

[WintrSol]

Another +1 on Progressive springs; I installed them, along with Progressive shocks, and handling was much improved on uneven pavement.

[hillsy]

If you are going to rip the front end apart you may as well check / replace / upgrade the steering bearings. Tapered from All Balls are far better than the OEM ball and race type.

[Lechy]

Taper neck bearings 32005 32006 readily available at any engineering outlet.

[emoji41]

[hillsy]

Taper neck bearings 32005 32006 readily available at any engineering outlet.

[emoji41]

Yep but the kits come with the dust seal for the bottom bearing so it's kinda worth the extra few bucks [emoji106]

[rocksandhammers]

Finally got a little cash flow and enough time to start doing some wrenching. Definitely going to order a set of the progressive springs.

https://www.allballsracing.com/22-1004.html Are these the bearings you're talking about hillsy?