Motorcycle shops.

[Designer]

Ok, then I will first rebleed the system, and then if nothing changes will check the MC for scoring.Will let you guys know by Friday. Thank you

You are most Welcome!

We are here for you .

[azazelakira]

Well guys, glad to inform that the clutch came higher when I used the clamp method. But still give me almost no "play" works better for the moment, what do the spring kit exactly does?

The carbs need a little better timming but for the summer I will use it loke that. In Winter I will go thro the wiring and carbs, I want to ride the bike, is been parked for 3 years and need some love.
On the weekends when I have a little time I will be playing with the Swingarm project and update over there the progress. Later will take a couple of pictures of what the bike looks right now and share, I am liking it.

[hillsy v2]

New clutch springs will increase the pressure on the hydraulic system (unless your current springs are wrong / too stiff). So, if anything, this will make the lever travel situation worse.

You either still have air in the system or the MC seals aren't working properly for some reason (seal in backwards, seal damaged or bore damaged).

[azazelakira]

You either still have air in the system or the MC seals aren't working properly for some reason (seal in backwards, seal damaged or bore damaged).

I think I will be buying new units next year, first the clutch then the brake, then the comands. I hate the look of rusted aluminium.
Thank you.

[hillsy v2]

You either still have air in the system or the MC seals aren't working properly for some reason (seal in backwards, seal damaged or bore damaged).

I think I will be buying new units next year, first the clutch then the brake, then the comands. I hate the look of rusted aluminium.
Thank you.

You could polish the ones you already have

[azazelakira]

You could polish the ones you already have
[/quote]

With a dremel? What compound?
Last time I tried it got worse, I had spots everywhere...

[Designer]

You could polish the ones you already have

With a dremel? What compound? Last time I tried it got worse, I had spots everywhere...

A Dremel tool will do that. It works on such a tiny area at a time, and thus the final buffed "appearance" will vary, showing overlaps in small area worked,....and you end up with it not being uniform overall polished appearance.

I recommend a larger diameter Buffing Wheel. Say about 6" or 9". And mounted on your Drill using a Mandrel.
The "Buff" should be about 3/4" to 1" wide. And you can take narrower buffs and "stack" them up[ on the mandrel to get this width.

I have an extensive inventory of both Buffs ( hard and soft) and Compounds (rom course "cutting" ones to superfine "chrome" ones)

[azazelakira]

Looks like I have to save some money to get the tools

[navigator]

A large buff works on big pieces like fork lowers, but there are too many nooks and crannys on master cylinders....still need the dremel.

[hillsy v2]

Looks like I have to save some money to get the tools

You could also just paint them with an epoxy silver / aluminium. Less grief. Just polish the caps.

[azazelakira]

What paint do you recomend, seen the prices of tools is better to buy them new. Unless paint them for cheap, I guess...

[hillsy v2]

What paint do you recomend, seen the prices of tools is better to buy them new. Unless paint them for cheap, I guess...

The new breed of epoxy paints in rattlecans are pretty good. Rustoleum / VHT, etc. Most don't need primers.
Or a high temp paint and cure the part in an oven or on a BBQ / grill. Obviously if you try this you need to totally strip the part including removing the sight glass.

Now I know this is satin black, but I did all the MC's, bars and top clamp on this FJ in Rustoleum Satin Epoxy Bullbar and it looked great. Spilt a bunch of brake fluid all over the MC's getting it all back in place but not a hint of paint blistering.

[azazelakira]

I will keep that in mind.

[sgtcall]

Tractor paint is tougher if you need something that will take more abuse. The main issue with tractor paint in rattle cans is there are limited color choices.

[Herb]

Tractor paint is tougher if you need something that will take more abuse. The main issue with tractor paint in rattle cans is there are limited color choices.

There is always John Deere Green...

[Lechy]

If you are going to paint, spray a test piece and drop a little brake fluid on the paint after it has dried and cured to check for reaction.

[Designer]

What paint do you recommend, seen the prices of tools is better to buy them new. Unless paint them for cheap, I guess...

I cannot recommend removing the Sight Glass. I, and others, did so back on the Purple Board and the likelihood of it leaking when reinstalled in very high.

Masking will do the job if you go this route. Be sure to press well the Masking Tape onto the Sight Glass using the flat end of an Exacto #1 Knife Handle to ensure full and total contact. Then use a #11 blade ( which has the most sharpest point on it) carefully cut around the outside perimeter of the Sight Glass. It has a near-perfect little "groove" all around it that will guide the cutting. Then repress the Masking Tape.

Be sure to mask off the Interior parts of the Bore ( where the Lever is fitted) and all Threaded portions, of course.

[azazelakira]

I replaced one window glass on my front brake MC, and is not leaking but the job that I performed was horrible, I mar some spots where I had to use as a pulley to get the seal out, that is other reason I am looking on buy new ones. I just have to much OCD with my vehicles and I like them near to perfect. And I hate rust and oxide on the aluminum more when is a visible part.

[sgtcall]

What paint do you recommend, seen the prices of tools is better to buy them new. Unless paint them for cheap, I guess...

I cannot recommend removing the Sight Glass. I, and others, did so back on the Purple Board and the likelihood of it leaking when reinstalled in very high.

Masking will do the job if you go this route. Be sure to press well the Masking Tape onto the Sight Glass using the flat end of an Exacto #1 Knife Handle to ensure full and total contact. Then use a #11 blade ( which has the most sharpest point on it) carefully cut around the outside perimeter of the Sight Glass. It has a near-perfect little "groove" all around it that will guide the cutting. Then repress the Masking Tape.

Be sure to mask off the Interior parts of the Bore ( where the Lever is fitted) and all Threaded portions, of course.

A thick coat of silicone before you paint works too. If the part is real glass and not plastic you can also use grease.

[Designer]

I replaced one window glass on my front brake MC, and is not leaking but the job that I performed was horrible, I mar some spots where I had to use as a pulley to get the seal out, that is other reason I am looking on buy new ones. I just have to much OCD with my vehicles and I like them near to perfect. And I hate rust and oxide on the aluminum more when is a visible part.

Good that yours didn't leak. Leaking was the majority of events back on the Purple Board.

And when you consider that you must mask the recess of the Sight Glass when it is removed, why then take it out?