clutch bleed problem (SOLVED)

[buster711]

Hi guys, love the site...easy on the eyes and some of what i read about "hating posters" was a hoot...
Now my problem; changed out the manual bleeder screw on the clutch for a speed bleeder and now the clutch handle will not build up pressure...I placed the master at high point on handlebar and even tried leaving the bleeder screw open over night with the handle tied to handle bar and resevoir full- yet this morning the resevoir was still full when i thought it would all drain out..One thing i did notice is that the line takes an upward turn before heading into the area above the radiator and air box. This seems like it might be an area where air could trap but BEFORE starting to take all that stuff apart i wanted to get some feed back in the hopes that i missed something simple ...
Thanks folks

[Xafius]

My suggestion is to get a vacuum bleeder and hook it to the bleeder screw and circulate the fluid until all the air is out. That would probably be the easiest thing to do.
And I would also completely replace the fluid because brake fluid absorbs water like mad and if you left it open all night you ruined what was in it.

[Jolsen]

Did you tape the threads on your new air source? Speed bleeders are worthless IMHO never had any luck with them

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[buster711]

Thanks so much for the guidance guys...Printing out directions to try again...I DID use tape on the screw but think from all the open/close it likely wore off....I DID get it to start gaining pressure @ one point when I treated the self bleeder like a standard one...BUT only to have it go limp again
I will definitely follow to a tee this time...yet i'm still wondering about the low sitting elbow in the line before it runs into front of frame above radiator...OH welll...just gotsta keep plugging away...
will post success..
thanks again

[Jolsen]

I ment Teflon tape on the threads of the bleeder

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[buster711]

[quote="Jolsen"]I ment Teflon tape on the threads of the bleeder
yes i know what u meant and already had it on there but thanks anyway 4 pointing that out since it does likely make a difference.

[YoDude]

A note about the designer method is, it only works if you have SOME clutch already. If you don't have any pressure at all, that method won't help you. In that instance, the vacuum pump is your best friend.

Yo-

[Xafius]

I love vacuum pumps.

[ddog6900]

My guess is your MC is clogged, probably the return holes are blocked. If the vacuum bleeder doesn't build pressure, the problem will most likely lie in your MC.

[buster711]

well i followed directions to a tee 5 times and though it DID stiffen up some there is not near the pressure needed...I am wondering about the possibility that on the old bleeder screw that was stripped so I used an auto center punch with about 6 clicks to get the screw to move to where I could turn it and wonder if there is something in there that is delicate enough to have been jacked up from the clicking force of the punch....I would not think it could happen BUT i have seen things happen that were far more unlikley...So it started to rain and even though i was in the shed i decided not to mess with it anymore tonight with all that moisture and FRUSTRATION....I am ALSO thinking about just getting the specs for replacing the auto/self bleeder with a stock manual one...
once again it hold\s true that if it aint broke dont mess with it,,however the bike sat for Lord knows before i got it in March...so i have been redoing things that might involve a greaking down of fluids etc....Now that i am in the thick of it just have to chalk it up as another learning experiance.
Still have to look into why my 98 virago 1100 is running a wet plug in front cyl...So it's not like ...well enough yapping...

[Jolsen]

A lot of times you are better to walk away and try in the am. This gives the micro bubbles time to rise to the top then try again in the am

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[buster711]

Thanks for the pointers guys...The "punch" I used is just a clicking thing about the size of a large ink pen with the same type of "press/click" that when you push on the top a spring gets sprung inside causing a slight jerk on the awl like point so theres no pounding..Saved my but when taking the float bowls and caps off of the carbs to replace slider o-rings....Someone who had this machine had no perspective whatsoever on tool to part size...Been replacing stripped stuff since I bought it but all in all I am happy with the machine...The Virago is my "ole reliable" because other than basic wear and tear have not had to replace much on it in 3 1/2 years....Also have 2 Vulcan 750's...the 1992 kept killing batteries but stator. rec/reg etc. all tested good...So at the bike "graveyard" 7 minutes from my house I spotted a 2000 750 for $1100 and all I needed to put on it was mirrors and a shifter....It's sitting till I can get to fixing a broken cable for the idle adjustment thumb screw...
So no no not selling the Intruder or Yamaha but am going to craig list the 2 Vulcans as a package for $1300...92 is still 95% complete and 2000 is legal and running...
Sorry bout getting off topic here...just throwing that out there in response to the suggestion of selling one of the 2 bigger ones...Experiance has taught me that if you really like to ride it's good to have a back up machine...
I had the Intruder running good (other than a rare backfire every once in a while)...And for $2000 with 20k mi and about $250 after puchase expeses I think I did alright (so fsr)....
Thanks again for all the help guys and for listening to my caffine/fatigue filled gabbing...
Will post back Sat. with any progress made...

[buster711]

well i picked up a syringe @ Agway and 1/4 hose @ auto zone so now we are ready to do the reverse thing...really hope it works and will kick self if turns out to be $10 fix for not doing it in first place..
One thing I have learned is to NEVER say something will be Ea..y (won't even use the word) till success is reached...
Hoping 4 the best

[buster711]

OMG if i had only known....When I felt my thingy get stiff lol and heard that sweet sound from down below of the clutch moving i was extatic!
took about 20 minutes from start to make sure i was setting things up right but the actual "reverse bleed" only took about 10 minutes. Even counting the 3 times I emptied the MC and pushed more through till I saw a steady small guyser comming up above the fluid level....I did it 3 times because ddog said i could have a clog....ALSO it took a while to find the old manual bleeder i threw away....The "auto/self " whatever the heck it is was only allowing half as much air through when i blew on it the way the fluid would be going...So either IT got clogged as well or it was junk to begin with...So being to late to run for a new one i filed the edges of the old and my closed 8mm fit perfect on it (yes that is strange) so it worked ok..
Not sure if i will even attempt the brake ones...might just chalk it up to a $21 lesson for the 3 parts and just bleed them the same way as we did clutch....Only reason i went with those was because on my truck & car they work great. But i have learned bikes are a completly different ball game and ESPECIALLY these Intruders...
Was a damper on happy when i had it running and it lurched a tad when i put it in first gear but i guess it just needed to adjust itself a tad because it was fine after that.
Will check MC resevoir in the A M and hopefully all is good..
So thanks so very much everyone for the tutorial and patience...You guys are the BEST !!

[buster711]

me to bro...thanks for the reminder on possible micro"buggers"heha

[ddog6900]

I did it 3 times because ddog said i could have a clog

Only reason I knew, happened on my brake side when I thought I'd be smart and try a speed bleeder. When nothing came out, I checked the MC, clogged like crazy with gunk. It happens when the PO neglects to flush often. Glad you got it fixed. I've retreated from telling people what to do and just answer questions when they're asked. Easier to learn the hard way what not to do. Sinks in better.

[Larry TN]

When obummer was in Kenya and in a loincloth...