Setting the idle

[Jvogt89]

Didn't see another thread for this...had my carbs redone at the shop this year because I was not familiar with the 1400 yet. But I think the idles a little low. 2 questions. 1. I don't have a tach and really don't need one except for this purpose so is there a way to use a multimeter to read the rpm? And 2. I know there is an idle adjustment knob under the seat on the right of the bike but is the another for the other carb and if not is it because of the cable sync system? And also by adjusting the idle with said screw would I need to sync again after or will the carbs stay synced since they were just done. Thanks guys.

[Herb]

The idle thumb screw adjusts the idle for both carbs. It uses a cable to the front carb. If the carbs are correctly sync'd there is no reason to re-sync them.

As for setting the idle without a tach, make it sound like you think it should.

Why do you think it is too low? Is it dying when you come to a stop? Or, is it just the sound?

I have a little inductive mini tach/hour meter that I installed on my bike, it is like this one. It is completely inductive, all you have to do is wrap the single lead around a plug wire. It doesn't have to be permenantly installed, but it can be.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hour-Meter-Tach ... 1713138747

It works well and even keeps track of the engine hours. I have over 500 hours of engine operation and it is still working great.

BTW, I have my idle set at about 950, never gives any trouble.

[Leckbass]

I use the same mini tach, it works great. Right around 1000 rpm is my bikes sweet spot.

[jonnycando]

I use the same mini tach, it works great. Right around 1000 rpm is my bikes sweet spot.

Schweeet! Ordered me one!

[WintrSol]

And also by adjusting the idle with said screw would I need to sync again after or will the carbs stay synced since they were just done.

There is a screw on the front carb that appears to be the idle set screw, but isn't. It is there to prevent the throttle closing all the way if the sync cable breaks, so that the throttle plate and carb throat aren't damaged. Some have removed the idle sync cable altogether, and adjust the idle on each carb separately, because once the idle is set and synchronized, you shouldn't have to change it.

Just FYI, you adjust the idle sync with plenty of slack in the grip rotation, by adjusting the length of the sync cable, then the slack is reduced to about 1/8" movement in the grip (bars straight) and the throttle cables sync is done by adjusting the front carb cable adjuster, with the throttle held open a bit (~3000 rpm). While the throttle sync is more important than the idle sync, it will start better with the idle sync done properly.

[geeintruder]

The idle thumb screw adjusts the idle for both carbs. It uses a cable to the front carb. If the carbs are correctly sync'd there is no reason to re-sync them.

As for setting the idle without a tach, make it sound like you think it should.

Why do you think it is too low? Is it dying when you come to a stop? Or, is it just the sound?

I have a little inductive mini tach/hour meter that I installed on my bike, it is like this one. It is completely inductive, all you have to do is wrap the single lead around a plug wire. It doesn't have to be permenantly installed, but it can be.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hour-Meter-Tach ... 1713138747

It works well and even keeps track of the engine hours. I have over 500 hours of engine operation and it is still working great.

BTW, I have my idle set at about 950, never gives any trouble.

this seems to be a good investment, i will look into it.

[Glsec507]

I keep reading instructions for that tach that says wrap wire around spark plug cable... Well what part of the cable? Over the insulation? I feel that description can be taken so many ways lol

[WintrSol]

I keep reading instructions for that tach that says wrap wire around spark plug cable... Well what part of the cable? Over the insulation? I feel that description can be taken so many ways lol

The wire works like an antenna; you just coil it around a spark plug wire until you get a stable reading. The more wraps, the stronger the signal to the tach. Once you are happy with the readings, it is a good idea to give it a wrap of some electrical tape, to hold it in place. That tape will be temporary, so it would be a good idea to check it once in a while. An alternative to common electrical tape is the kind with no adhesive, but bonds with itself as you wrap it; it is trickier to use, and has to be clean, but lasts a lot longer.

[Glsec507]

Wow it's that easy huh. Here I was dreading having to hardwire in a tach just to see my idle speed...

[enforcer]

Wow it's that easy huh. Here I was dreading having to hardwire in a tach just to see my idle speed...

Hardwiring one is done in the same fashion. Onky difference is tapping in somewhere for power to the tach, backlight and a ground connection. Plus, if you're like me, you're constantly changing things about your bike, so you'll always have one for reference. [emoji106]

[Glsec507]

I'm paranoid about tapping wires lol. I'm no mechanic either but cutting and splicing electronics have never been my thing so this simple device is perfect

[Leckbass]

Just wrap it around the spark plug wire, put a zip tie on it on it, and make sure it's set for 4-stroke not 2 stroke.

[Glsec507]

Just wrap it around the spark plug wire, put a zip tie on it on it, and make sure it's set for 4-stroke not 2 stroke.

Thanks. That was my next question

[Jvogt89]

Sorry it took so long guys...one of the reasons I was asking about idle is due to when I have adjusted where I think it should sound like and turn the motor off everything cuts like it should then out of nowhere I get one small pop from the exhaust.. also I'm still not sure with the vs 1400 which is the front and rear carb...there is the obvious approach of when I'm sitting on the bike the carb fastest front is the front carb correct? So when it's said thathat there is a similar knob on the rear carb...does that mean I've been adjusting the wrong knob? If so how should it be set? What I have been trying to adjust is a spring screw knob you only have access to from the right side of the bike under the seat.

[WintrSol]

There is no knob to adjust the idle on the front carb (the one that feeds the front cylinder); on the rear carb is a knurled knob about 1/2" in diameter.

Just to confuse things, Suzuki calls the rear carb #1, and the front carb #2.

[Herb]

Just wrap it around the spark plug wire, put a zip tie on it on it, and make sure it's set for 4-stroke not 2 stroke.

Actually, there is no setting on these.

Any vehicle that has the spark pickup on the crankshaft fires the plug every rotation, like the 1400, all 2 stroke and most small 4 stroke engines do this also. Many of the older 4 stroke bikes use the camshaft for the pickup or points and these would read half speed on those type of engines.

as for the small pop in the exhaust, that is pretty common on these bikes, my 87 used to do that and sometimes it would be so loud that it sounded like a 9mm going off. I have never found a way to completely prevent that, I did manage to minimize it by richening up the idle jets to about 2 turns out.

[Leckbass]

Just wrap it around the spark plug wire, put a zip tie on it on it, and make sure it's set for 4-stroke not 2 stroke.

Actually, there is no setting on these.

Any vehicle that has the spark pickup on the crankshaft fires the plug every rotation, like the 1400, all 2 stroke and most small 4 stroke engines do this also. Many of the older 4 stroke bikes use the camshaft for the pickup or points and these would read half speed on those type of engines.

Actually it does, as I just took it off my car and put it on my outboard. Had to change the setting!

[Herb]

Just wrap it around the spark plug wire, put a zip tie on it on it, and make sure it's set for 4-stroke not 2 stroke.

Actually, there is no setting on these.

Any vehicle that has the spark pickup on the crankshaft fires the plug every rotation, like the 1400, all 2 stroke and most small 4 stroke engines do this also. Many of the older 4 stroke bikes use the camshaft for the pickup or points and these would read half speed on those type of engines.

Actually it does, as I just took it off my car and put it on my outboard. Had to change the setting!

Not sure what type you are using that requires a change from 2-4 stroke engine. Every one of these I have seen don't have that type of setting. I am also not sure of the type of boat motor you have, If it has a distributor then it will work at half of engine speed and would require some type of tach that would account for that so that it didn't read at half the engine speed. The 1400, and almost every bike since going to the electronic ignition fire the same as 2 strokes, every revolution.

All of the small utility engines use a system that fires every revolution.

[Leckbass]

same model...

"Can set speed mode, applied for 2-Stroke or 4-Stroke engines"

[Jvogt89]

Just wrap it around the spark plug wire, put a zip tie on it on it, and make sure it's set for 4-stroke not 2 stroke.

as for the small pop in the exhaust, that is pretty common on these bikes, my 87 used to do that and sometimes it would be so loud that it sounded like a 9mm going off. I have never found a way to completely prevent that, I did manage to minimize it by richening up the idle jets to about 2 turns out.

And if you don't mind what all would that require? Do I have to take the carb off to adjust the idle jet?