Wires in the head light bucket

[Swcoinguy]

I am posting to make sure my findings are correct and that I'm not off my rocker. I was looking for an auxiliary power source for spot/aux/passing(whatever you want to call them)lights on the front of my vs800. I assumed there would be one in the headlight bucket so I penned it up. Sure enough there is a black with white tracer and a solid brown empty so I figure they should be switched and usable for auxiliary power. I can't get power from them. I've looked at the wiring diagram and I'm pretty sure that's what those wires are for. I checked all of the fuses and they are good(checked both sides of each fuse to be sure). My tail light, running lights, and every other light is working fine.
Am I missing something here? Is that brown wire not suppose to be hot....ever? It's like it's not connected to anything. I tried different grounds and checked my tester several times on other hot wires. Everything else is good and my tester is good.
Any suggestions? I really don't want to run wire from the fuse box to the front to hook up auxiliary lights.
Thanks in advance.
I'll check back tomorrow, it's bed time [emoji99]

[enforcer]

I don't remember and don't have my wiring diagram anymore, but I'm fairly certain there is a brown positive running through the bike. (Licence plate bulb? At the very least) I'm not sure there's one in the bucket. At least I don't remember seeing one. Orange with white stripe is positive the bike over. I think there's yellow with white stripe powering the headlights that may work.

[Swcoinguy]

I wanted to avoid splicing into anything if possible. The brown wire does run from the ass to the nose. It powers the license plate light for sure and if it's the same wire then I'm stumped about why it's dead in the bucket. Damn it, this was suppose to be the easy part lol. I guess I'll dig deeper, must be a reason it's not live. I thought maybe there was something inline between the fuse box and the headlight that could stop power but I don't believe there are any other fuses anywhere. Back at it I guess if I have time tonight after work. Thanks amigo [emoji106]

[Lechy]

The brown goes into an empty slot on the connector block and requires hooking up to a live source.
[emoji41]

[Swcoinguy]

The brown goes into an empty slot on the connector block and requires hooking up to a live source.
[emoji41]

So the brown wire in the bucket is not connected to anything from the factory? Where could I get ahold of it without much hassle? Does it stop in a specific location? Sounds like your more familiar with it than I am for sure, any suggestions for getting it connected to power? If need be I can pull the tank but I'd rather not if I don't have to. When I traced it in the wiring diagram it looked like it was connected but I can't be sure.
I don't remember an open spot in the fuse block but I have the cover off so I can look again tonight.

[Lechy]

The wiring on the Intruders is a pot of noodles, it would be simpler for you to run a new cable from the fuse box or hook into an existing hot cable, Any way you try to do it would probably mean removing the tank. If you are going to put a switch in the circuit, I would personally take the hot from the horn, I think that on your machine it would be the solid black wire going to the horn itself.

[emoji41]

[Spitfire]

If you have access to the wiring schematics for your bike be sure to get the right year. It can definitely lead You astray if you don't as the wiring has changed slightly from year to year. You might also check to ensure that the previous owner or owners has not changed the factory wiring to where it will no longer match the schematics.

[Swcoinguy]

The wiring on the Intruders is a pot of noodles, it would be simpler for you to run a new cable from the fuse box or hook into an existing hot cable, Any way you try to do it would probably mean removing the tank. If you are going to put a switch in the circuit, I would personally take the hot from the horn, I think that on your machine it would be the solid black wire going to the horn itself.

[emoji41]

I guess I'll pull the tank then. It's fairly easy and then I can try to follow that brown wire. I'll come back and update my findings.

[Swcoinguy]

If you have access to the wiring schematics for your bike be sure to get the right year. It can definitely lead You astray if you don't as the wiring has changed slightly from year to year. You might also check to ensure that the previous owner or owners has not changed the factory wiring to where it will no longer match the schematics.

I don't see any evidence of tampering and the wires all match the wiring diagram I was looking at. Everything looks factory in the bucket. I'm going to pull the tank and start following that brown wire in hopes of finding the issue. In the end it will be cleaner to use the factory connection in the bucket if I can so running new wires or splicing into existing wires will be last resort.

[enforcer]

If you have access to the wiring schematics for your bike be sure to get the right year. It can definitely lead You astray if you don't as the wiring has changed slightly from year to year. You might also check to ensure that the previous owner or owners has not changed the factory wiring to where it will no longer match the schematics.

I don't see any evidence of tampering and the wires all match the wiring diagram I was looking at. Everything looks factory in the bucket. I'm going to pull the tank and start following that brown wire in hopes of finding the issue. In the end it will be cleaner to use the factory connection in the bucket if I can so running new wires or splicing into existing wires will be last resort.

Use crimp connectors and just make it look factory. All that disassembly for one positive lead seems overkill to me.

It's not like it's going to be worth more when you sell it if it's all factory.

Plus, it's a hidden connection.

Just do it. [emoji106]

[SoakedKarma]

Am I missing something here? Is that brown wire not suppose to be hot....ever? It's like it's not connected to anything.

the headlight bucket brown wire isn't connected to anything...!!
If you look at wiring diagram you will notice it ends at the connector. Jump as indicated in following graphic



You will have to locate the brown lighting wire from rear tail light circuit and create a jumper to complete the circuit.
Or tap into the running lamp circuit gray wire at the connector.

[Swcoinguy]

If you have access to the wiring schematics for your bike be sure to get the right year. It can definitely lead You astray if you don't as the wiring has changed slightly from year to year. You might also check to ensure that the previous owner or owners has not changed the factory wiring to where it will no longer match the schematics.

I don't see any evidence of tampering and the wires all match the wiring diagram I was looking at. Everything looks factory in the bucket. I'm going to pull the tank and start following that brown wire in hopes of finding the issue. In the end it will be cleaner to use the factory connection in the bucket if I can so running new wires or splicing into existing wires will be last resort.

Use crimp connectors and just make it look factory. All that disassembly for one positive lead seems overkill to me.

It's not like it's going to be worth more when you sell it if it's all factory.

Plus, it's a hidden connection.

Just do it. [emoji106]

I hate splicing, I always end up with a bad connection later down the road. Otherwise I'm not worried about it being factory(even though that must add $10 to the value of the bike lol). I just have a stigma about rigged up wiring and splicing is usually leads to jobbied up wiring and that leads to more problems and so on. That's my last resort so I'll do my best to avoid it if possible. I'll splice if It comes down to it.

[Swcoinguy]

Am I missing something here? Is that brown wire not suppose to be hot....ever? It's like it's not connected to anything.

the headlight bucket brown wire isn't connected to anything...!!
If you look at wiring diagram you will notice it ends at the connector. Jump as indicated in following graphic



You will have to locate the brown lighting wire from rear tail light circuit and create a jumper to complete the circuit.
Or tap into the running lamp circuit gray wire at the connector.

I'm going to look into this, thanks for pointing that out. I guess I was missing that little detail.

[SoakedKarma]

The brown goes into an empty slot on the connector block and requires hooking up to a live source.
[emoji41]

Lechy was trying to point out the wire goes nowhere..

The reason why No connection to front. "parking light circuit"
Brown wire to rear lighting is energized directly from battery through ignition switch when switched to Park..
tail / license lights will be lit, Key can be removed..

When key in On position Brown tail / license light wire is energized through fused orange/green circuit.
Note; Key On Orange/Green "Top #1 fuze 10A" circuit powers Brown Wire, Horn, Front/Rear brake lamp switch, spedo head lights, and front marker/running lights combined in/with turn signal.. last of which branch off at connector becoming gray wire at connector..

Any tap into the gray wires would provide fuse #1 protected circuit and would only light with ignition switch in On position..

Complete the brown wire circuit as indicated in graphic, will energize lights when key in both On and Park position. non-fused when switched to Park.

I'd just hook into the gray marker/running lamp wiring and have fused protection.

[enforcer]

The brown goes into an empty slot on the connector block and requires hooking up to a live source.
[emoji41]

Lechy was trying to point out the wire goes nowhere..

The reason why No connection to front. "parking light circuit"
Brown wire to rear lighting is energized directly from battery through ignition switch when switched to Park..
tail / license lights will be lit, Key can be removed..

When key in On position Brown tail / license light wire is energized through fused orange/green circuit.
Note; Key On Orange/Green "Top #1 fuze 10A" circuit powers Brown Wire, Horn, Front/Rear brake lamp switch, spedo head lights, and front marker/running lights combined in/with turn signal.. last of which branch off at connector becoming gray wire at connector..

Any tap into the gray wires would provide fuse #1 protected circuit and would only light with ignition switch in On position..

Complete the brown wire circuit as indicated in graphic, will energize lights when key in both On and Park position. non-fused when switched to Park.

I'd just hook into the gray marker/running lamp wiring and have fused protection.

Tapping into wires is what he's trying to avoid. If he's going to tap into anything it should be one of the positives already in the bucket. Save a lot of unnecessary work.

[Swcoinguy]

Well......I pulled the seat to see if the brown wire ran back that far and it didnt. I pulled the tank and started tracing that wire from the headlight back. From the bucket it runs into the speedo and from there it heads under the tank. The first junction(plug) is under the front intake tube. There are about a dozen wires on the headlight side and one less on the other side. Guess which wire doesn't finish the run.
All of that actually only took about 15 minutes so I started thinking of alternate solutions to my problem. My first issue with completing the brown wire run was that I don't have any way to make or add a female spade connector into the existing plug(the spade connectors are tiny). I thought about pulling the brown wire from its side of the plug and after I did it I decided it was pointless because now I have an exposed wire that I still need to run a live wire to so I pushed it back into the plug and abandoned that idea.
---SoakedKarma: I think I'm going to go with the grey wires, thanks.
---enforcer: I know I didn't want to splice into anything(especially lighting that is important to not go out because of a blown fuse or a loose wire or corrosion or..)but it looks like there isn't much advantage to doing it any other way and at least the grey running light wires in the bucket are switched and have a fuse already in the circuit. I'm probably going to put a mini 10 amp in line between the bucket and the auxiliary lights too just to be sure. I'm going to make a 2 into 1 adapter to plug the new lights into so I don't have to cut wire sheathing just to be on the safe side. Thanks for the input on this. I probably shouldn't have tried to be so anal about it but now I know lol.
---lechy: Thanks for your input. You were right about that brown wire, it's a long road to no where. Suzuki should have saved that 3 feet of wire lol.
It's bed time again so back at it tomorrow night. Thanks again guys.

[Swcoinguy]

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