leak down tester

[Blackout]

I know this may be a long shot but I'll try anyway.

Is there anyone in the Tacoma, WA area with a leak down tester that would be willing to help a fellow member out? I'm dealing with oil fouling in the rear cylinder and hoping to determine why without spending cash I don't really have on a purchase that I'll end up using only a few times.


Many thanks in advance.

[enforcer]

Could just be a valve guide. A leak down tester isn't going to tell you much about where the oil leak is located.

[FallenAngel]

I know this may be a long shot but I'll try anyway.

Is there anyone in the Tacoma, WA area with a leak down tester that would be willing to help a fellow member out? I'm dealing with oil fouling in the rear cylinder and hoping to determine why without spending cash I don't really have on a purchase that I'll end up using only a few times.


Many thanks in advance.

Could just be a valve guide. A leak down tester isn't going to tell you much about where the oil leak is located.

Unless it is leaking oil due to bad rings
Depending on if your running synthetic oil or standard petroleum based oil you may want to check when it smokes
If it smokes on start up it would be valve guides
If it smokes under power it is more likely rings

Synthetic oil does not burn (Under normal engine operating temperatures) So you wont see any smoke But you may find a oily residue in your exhaust pipe depending on how much oil is escaping past the worn components

[Blackout]

I'm currently using Amsoil full synthetic 20-50 for metrics, what if I were to switch to conventional oil, could that help? I've only had the bike for a year and a half, but have always had this issue.

At this point I'm not seeing any residue in my exhaust pipes, I occasionally see some blue-ish smoke on start up, but I think that's only when it's been sitting for a couple of days.

The main issue is that it will foul a new plug after about 3 days riding, but only the rear.

You state that a leak down test won't show where the leak is, but isn't that what they're used for, to help determine which internal parts are worn?

On a side note, a buddy mentioned how he used Lucas oil heavy duty stabilizer on an old mustang he had, and how well it worked. Has anyone used this? They claim it's safe for wet clutches too.

http://lucasoil.com/products/engine-oil ... stabilizer

[FallenAngel]

I'm currently using Amsoil full synthetic 20-50 for metrics, what if I were to switch to conventional oil, could that help? I've only had the bike for a year and a half, but have always had this issue.

At this point I'm not seeing any residue in my exhaust pipes, I occasionally see some blue-ish smoke on start up, but I think that's only when it's been sitting for a couple of days.

The main issue is that it will foul a new plug after about 3 days riding, but only the rear.

You state that a leak down test won't show where the leak is, but isn't that what they're used for, to help determine which internal parts are worn?

On a side note, a buddy mentioned how he used Lucas oil heavy duty stabilizer on an old mustang he had, and how well it worked. Has anyone used this? They claim it's safe for wet clutches too.

http://lucasoil.com/products/engine-oil ... stabilizer

Blue smoke is Oil
Black smoke is fuel

The leak down test will tell you which internal combustion parts are worn IE Valves and Valve seats Rings and or broken pistons. The valve guides keep the valves from wobbling inside of the head and are prone to wear. As they wear they will allow more oil to get past the seals which are little more then an O ring that re-directs oil away from the valve steam and contacts the top of the guide and splashes the oil off the top of the guide Or an umbrella seal which is an up grade on many engines
Changing to conventional oil My help if burns the oil off and out the pipe instead of fowling the plug But that may result in smoke. On the bright side it may help in determining if it is guides or rings. If it smokes at start up it is guides if it smokes under power then its a good chance its rings. If it isn't to excessive then ride on

[enforcer]

A leak down test only attempts to tell you where the leak is, the diagnosis is up to you. Your still have to determine where, if at all, is actually leaking. And it only works to help you find the leak if it's something you can see. If it's internal engine, at least a top end tear down will be required.

But I agree, if you're fouling a plug, make sure it's oil, not gas.

[FallenAngel]

You state that a leak down test won't show where the leak is, but isn't that what they're used for, to help determine which internal parts are worn?

Here is Mine
http://www.mactools.com/en-us/Specialty ... ure-Tester
If I was to introduce 80 psi to 1 cylinder and I had 50psi on my second gauge then I know I have a 30% leakage and if the rest only show a 5% drop I know I have an unbalanced engine.
Only After I do a compression test first
To due a simple test you don't need the deferential tester Just compressed air If you hear air escaping from either the intake or exhaust you know you have a bad valve If from the crank case then you know you have bad rings or broken piston

I myself would bet You have bad valve guide seals

The main issue is that it will foul a new plug after about 3 days riding, but only the rear

Highway riding or city riding
If City riding or crappy Rolling roadblock Tacoma Highway riding Try Clearing out your bikes throat before shutting it down

[FallenAngel]

Are you running resister plugs in your Intruder??
Are you burning good gas in your Intruder. Im not referring to 96 octane Just not Costco , Safeway QFC or 7 Eleven gas

[enforcer]

Older Intruders run resistorless plugs, to compensate for weak coils. All Intruders have resistors in the caps already, so the plugs are just overkill.

The best gas to run (including what FallenAngel referred to as cheap gas) is 87 octane. No more, no less. It's easier for a low compression engine, like these, to combust.

[Blackout]

A leak down test only attempts to tell you where the leak is, the diagnosis is up to you. Your still have to determine where, if at all, is actually leaking. And it only works to help you find the leak if it's something you can see. If it's internal engine, at least a top end tear down will be required.

But I agree, if you're fouling a plug, make sure it's oil, not gas.

Almost 100% certain it is oil. It's not dripping off the plug, even if it were to sit for a few days, but there is definitely oil.

[Blackout]

You state that a leak down test won't show where the leak is, but isn't that what they're used for, to help determine which internal parts are worn?

Here is Mine
http://www.mactools.com/en-us/Specialty ... ure-Tester
If I was to introduce 80 psi to 1 cylinder and I had 50psi on my second gauge then I know I have a 30% leakage and if the rest only show a 5% drop I know I have an unbalanced engine.
Only After I do a compression test first
To due a simple test you don't need the deferential tester Just compressed air If you hear air escaping from either the intake or exhaust you know you have a bad valve If from the crank case then you know you have bad rings or broken piston

I myself would bet You have bad valve guide seals

The main issue is that it will foul a new plug after about 3 days riding, but only the rear

Highway riding or city riding
If City riding or crappy Rolling roadblock Tacoma Highway riding Try Clearing out your bikes throat before shutting it down

Mostly I'm doing in city riding but I try to jump on the highway 16 on my way to work, it's only 7 miles from home to work, and of that it's probably only 3-4 on the freeway.

I did a cold engine compression test last night and see:
Front Cyl 160psi
Rear Cly 155psi
According to the Suzuki manual, expected compression is 142-199psi.

I read today that you should perform the compression test on a warmed up engine, so I'll be doing that tonight.

[Blackout]

Older Intruders run resistorless plugs, to compensate for weak coils. All Intruders have resistors in the caps already, so the plugs are just overkill.

The best gas to run (including what FallenAngel referred to as cheap gas) is 87 octane. No more, no less. It's easier for a low compression engine, like these, to combust.

I have almost exclusively used 87 octane because of what people have said on this, and the old purple forum (R.I.P.), typically from Fred Meyer, Costco, occasionally from Chevron. From what I've been told, by an engineer who works for a local fuel distribution company is that the fuel is the same (aside from being 87,91 octane, with 89 being a mixture of the 2) and that each company (Chevron, Costco, AMPM, etc) have their own additives they mix in WHILE it's being loaded in to the trucks before delivery. However, I also run some Techron through every few tanks of fuel.

IMO, Costco is a pretty decent fuel and have run it in all of my vehicles for several years. (not trying to hijack my own thread by starting an argument about fuel though)

It currently has DPR8EA-9 plugs, as that's what I read in the Clymer manual. I was originally using irridums, but after fouling several I got tired of wasting money and started using the standard plugs. I am certainly open to trying DP8EA-9 plugs, and was thinking about picking some up tonight if the local parts shop has some, along with giving the Lucas oil stabilizer a try.

As far as I can tell, my caps do not have a resistor in them, only a silver looking slug of metal. Perhaps the PO removed them?

[FallenAngel]

Front Cyl 160psi
Rear Cly 155psi
For a 2 cyl 15 psi really is a bit of a deference
This means your rear cylinder is less efficient and will have a harder time burning all of the fuel

Your Friend at the trucking company is correct for the most part The main deference in pump gas is the additives that company's use.
But that doesnt mean All fuel is the same.
I have a 65 GMC with a Mild built 30 over 350 I used to drive from Seattle to Bellingham 4 days a week for work. I found a gas station where I could get Super for penny's more then in Seattle. So Naturally I would fuel up in Bellingham. Just out side of Burlington there is in incline about 3 miles long. As I was climbing this hill I wanted to pass a trucker and It seemed I had lost a little in the throttle. I pulled my plugs and found that 3 of them had white deposits on the electrodes,These deposits are from the additives in the fuel, which caused the loose of power. I never purchased fuel there again had no lounger had these deposits on my plugs.

This is just a suggestion But try some good fuel It may help burn off the oil

[FallenAngel]

As far as I can tell, my caps do not have a resistor in them, only a silver looking slug of metal. Perhaps the PO removed them?

Not sure what this is or where you got it from

[Blackout]

As far as I can tell, my caps do not have a resistor in them, only a silver looking slug of metal. Perhaps the PO removed them?

Not sure what this is or where you got it from

This is what came out of my plug wire cap. There's one in each side.

[FallenAngel]

Thats what I thought you meant but I really wasnt sure
I have never seen them come out of a plug wire
I wounder how they effect spark But thats another thing
Im interested in your compression test when you do it hot(Operation Temp)

[Blackout]

To my dismay compression test results at operating temps is the same as when cold.

[enforcer]

To my dismay compression test results at operating temps is the same as when cold.

Dismay? That's good news, if you did the test with the throttle wide open. Temp isn't going to matter much. Good compression shows you don't have a leak. I have a hard time believing, with those compression numbers, that you have any kind of oil leak. Could be a very slight valve guide leak, but that shouldn't foul a plug that fast.

But, that's not my first suspicion. I suspect your breather is blocked. Happens quite quickly if the crank case is too full. Just a couple items to check.

[Blackout]

I would have expected the metals in the engine to expand because of the heat, causing tolerances to become tighter and increase compression, but you're saying that's not true?

Suzuki says compression should be 142-199, which puts mine in the lower 20th percentile. Maybe it being lower isn't as big of an issue than if it were way off from one to the other?

You reply said 15psi, but if you re-read my previous post you'll see it's only 5psi difference, and when I redid the test tonight they were almost exactly the same at about 150. Throttle was wide open too, btw.


How do I go about checking the breather? Is that something that's connected to both cylinder heads?

[enforcer]

I would have expected the metals in the engine to expand because of the heat, causing tolerances to become tighter and increase compression, but you're saying that's not true?

Suzuki says compression should be 142-199, which puts mine in the lower 20th percentile. Maybe it being lower isn't as big of an issue than if it were way off from one to the other?

You reply said 15psi, but if you re-read my previous post you'll see it's only 5psi difference, and when I redid the test tonight they were almost exactly the same at about 150. Throttle was wide open too, btw.


How do I go about checking the breather? Is that something that's connected to both cylinder heads?

First, if you happen to find a motor with near perfect compression, it's most likely brand new.

Second, metal expanding would create a better compression test result, but not much. I've always done mine dead cold. You should never screw anything into the head while hot.

You could have a sticky lifter, hindering your results, by not pumping up all the way. Again, if the compression is perfect,it's most likely brand new.

Last, I'm not sure where the breather routes to. I never owned a 1400. I suspect one of the intakes. This is where the other site came in handy. Everyone took pics of everything. But, if your breather is blocked, the crankcase won't vent properly and the built up pressure could cause blow by.