Chinese Regulator/rectifier
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Chinese Regulator/rectifier
Hi Guys, anyone used one of the chinese jobbies for the 1400? OEM replacements are horrendous price!! My baby wouldn't start this morning Only just started yesterday but was ok all day. Am doing the tests i can till the battery charges up ( its fairly new and tests 100% healthy) so i thought i'd ask just in case the reg/rec is not working. Stator ohms are all equal so will test the ac output tomorrow also the dc volts when running. Not having a good run with vehicles of late, my Isuzu 4x4 heater core started leaking and having trouble locating one for rh drive. Left hand drive one won't fit and costs about $NZ1100.00 Appreciate any replies [emoji106]
M2H
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- hillsy
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Re: Chinese Regulator/rectifier
I put one on my 1500 and it worked OK. Sold the bike not too long after the change though, so can't really comment on the longevity.m2h wrote:Hi Guys, anyone used one of the chinese jobbies for the 1400? OEM replacements are horrendous price!! My baby wouldn't start this morning Only just started yesterday but was ok all day. Am doing the tests i can till the battery charges up ( its fairly new and tests 100% healthy) so i thought i'd ask just in case the reg/rec is not working. Stator ohms are all equal so will test the ac output tomorrow also the dc volts when running. Not having a good run with vehicles of late, my Isuzu 4x4 heater core started leaking and having trouble locating one for rh drive. Left hand drive one won't fit and costs about $NZ1100.00 Appreciate any replies [emoji106]
The SH775 is the best out there. Also there is a Polaris one which is good (both are series RR's as opposed to shunt types). The Polaris ones can be had 2nd hand for pretty cheap. You have to get a loom and re-wire them though (not hard if you can solder).
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Re: Chinese Regulator/rectifier
Don't use a Chinese part, they don't last. Use a compatible Taiwanese or Japanese product. I'm running one for the Honda African on my 800 no problem in over 15,000 km.
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Re: Chinese Regulator/rectifier
Thanks guys appreciate the feedback. Not sure that i need one yet till tomorrow. Its good to have an option lined up.tho Cheers [emoji106]
M2H
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- Herb
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Re: Chinese Regulator/rectifier
sI have never had to replace an RR on my 1400's but I used a chinese one to replace the RR on the ST1100. Worked well but then I only rode it about 8,000 miles after that and sold it.
I can't seem to win the lottery. I think I have used up all of my good luck riding motorcycles.
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Re: Chinese Regulator/rectifier
Well i tested the AC volts, manual says 80 plus on all three and i got 81 on 2 and 79-80 on one at 5000rpm +head beam.
Dont know how much of a tolerance there is. Anyone done this test? Be good to have a comparison but i guess there could be a variation. DC volts was 12.6 static after charge and the same running at 5000rpm. SOOOO my R/R seems to be toast. Now to find a good one!
Dont know how much of a tolerance there is. Anyone done this test? Be good to have a comparison but i guess there could be a variation. DC volts was 12.6 static after charge and the same running at 5000rpm. SOOOO my R/R seems to be toast. Now to find a good one!
M2H
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Re: Chinese Regulator/rectifier
On further investigation it looks more like its the stator now Although it's putting out similar voltage on each leg it also has continuity to ground so all voltage is going to the frame and not thru the r/r. FUCK
M2H
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Re: Chinese Regulator/rectifier
You'd be best off getting both - new stator and RR. One failing is often the cause of taking out the other....and seeing as how the stator is the most expensive part....it makes sense to buy both to ensure its good.m2h wrote:On further investigation it looks more like its the stator now Although it's putting out similar voltage on each leg it also has continuity to ground so all voltage is going to the frame and not thru the r/r. FUCK
- Herb
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Re: Chinese Regulator/rectifier
I have lost a number of stators but NEVER replaced an RR on a 1400. Every time I have lost a stator it has been the phase winding that is not sitting in the oil.hillsy wrote:You'd be best off getting both - new stator and RR. One failing is often the cause of taking out the other....and seeing as how the stator is the most expensive part....it makes sense to buy both to ensure its good.m2h wrote:On further investigation it looks more like its the stator now Although it's putting out similar voltage on each leg it also has continuity to ground so all voltage is going to the frame and not thru the r/r. FUCK
I had an RR that wasn't putting out what it was supposed to, but it turned out to be a bad ground. Rather than trace the ground problem I tapped into the ground wire and ran it straight to the battery.
I can't seem to win the lottery. I think I have used up all of my good luck riding motorcycles.
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Re: Chinese Regulator/rectifier
Thanks Herb, Hillsy advise appreciated. Bin looking at differrent r/r's the one on Alixpress has the right plug ( i love plug and play!!) and the right mounting. Quality i don't know about but price is good $US24. My one seems to be ok the meter says the diodes are working as they should, the ohms between red and black is 6.5 as per the manual but the reading for the yellows is 5.5 instead of 2.5 ???? all the same tho, maybe the mete?r. As for the stator i am going to see my local rewind guys on Monday rather than buy another one (they are spensive ) Bought a Ricky for my Honda XL 600 rebuild which are sposed to be the best. Other than accessories the bike hasn't cost me for repairs so i guess i shouldn't complain. [emoji2]
M2H
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Re: Chinese Regulator/rectifier
Well i got into the removal of the stator today. Thought i might do a sequence with piks (hopefully) as it might help someone else at some point. I had already removed the seat to check the RR and AC connector as previous posts.
First thing is to remove the 8 bolts holding the foot peg bracket (check for cotter pins where bolts poke thru on top) and let bracket drop down no need to remove gear linkage or anything. Next remove the chromed cover at rear near the final drive universal. This will reveal a couple of bolts for the front cover and also allow you to undo the two bolts holding the clutch slave cylinder which you need to move out of the way to release the stator cable which is under the clutch tubing.
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The next thing is to pull the stator cable thru which is not easy at all. Had already disconnected the stator AC (three yellow wires) so now you need to disconnect the connector with the green/blue/yellow wires not sure what they do will have to look at the diagram. In my case ther was no way to feed them back thru with the connectors attached so just in case i can get a rewind i used a skinny nosed tweezer leg and slid it into the connector and freed the little latch which allowed me to pull out the brass blade connector. Did this on both leads taped them up and eased them thru the jumble of leads, carb and rubber tubes Was the hardest part, don't know what it will be like to put the new ones back
Once done remove all the bolts( there are three lengths so itemise where they go) holding the stator cover on and
ease the cover of trying not to stuff the gasket. This is tricky as the magnets on the rotor want to suck the stator back in. When it comes off the starter drive gear will probably come with so watch that as you take the cover right off.
What you see inside will vary in severity. Mine has two obviously two burnt coils.
Will update when my repair/replace options are a bit clearer.
[/img]
Have trouble getting piks to come across. Maybe some one can help??
Hope this may help some with the same issues
First thing is to remove the 8 bolts holding the foot peg bracket (check for cotter pins where bolts poke thru on top) and let bracket drop down no need to remove gear linkage or anything. Next remove the chromed cover at rear near the final drive universal. This will reveal a couple of bolts for the front cover and also allow you to undo the two bolts holding the clutch slave cylinder which you need to move out of the way to release the stator cable which is under the clutch tubing.
[/img]
The next thing is to pull the stator cable thru which is not easy at all. Had already disconnected the stator AC (three yellow wires) so now you need to disconnect the connector with the green/blue/yellow wires not sure what they do will have to look at the diagram. In my case ther was no way to feed them back thru with the connectors attached so just in case i can get a rewind i used a skinny nosed tweezer leg and slid it into the connector and freed the little latch which allowed me to pull out the brass blade connector. Did this on both leads taped them up and eased them thru the jumble of leads, carb and rubber tubes Was the hardest part, don't know what it will be like to put the new ones back
Once done remove all the bolts( there are three lengths so itemise where they go) holding the stator cover on and
ease the cover of trying not to stuff the gasket. This is tricky as the magnets on the rotor want to suck the stator back in. When it comes off the starter drive gear will probably come with so watch that as you take the cover right off.
What you see inside will vary in severity. Mine has two obviously two burnt coils.
Will update when my repair/replace options are a bit clearer.
[/img]
Have trouble getting piks to come across. Maybe some one can help??
Hope this may help some with the same issues
M2H
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Re: Chinese Regulator/rectifier
Removing the starter motor leaves just enough room to thread the cables and connectors. But, removing the motor is a real ball ache.
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- Herb
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Re: Chinese Regulator/rectifier
It's been a few years since I replaced a stator but I don't remember the starter motor being anywhere near the stator wiring. the stators I have bought all had long enough wires to route them any way I wanted to.Lechy wrote:Removing the starter motor leaves just enough room to thread the cables and connectors. But, removing the motor is a real ball ache.
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Re: Chinese Regulator/rectifier
Sorry, my mistake, this is the 1400 section not the 800. Different animals.
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- Herb
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Re: Chinese Regulator/rectifier
OK. Never worked on an 800. Was very confused about your answer.Lechy wrote:Sorry, my mistake, this is the 1400 section not the 800. Different animals.
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I can't seem to win the lottery. I think I have used up all of my good luck riding motorcycles.
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Re: Chinese Regulator/rectifier
^ me too Took my stator to town this AM to a so called motor rewind shop. The wanker took one look at it and said " I don't do those " and that was all he said. So i came home and did a comparison between an Alixpress one @ NZ$75 and one on our TradeMe (like ebay ) It was an advert from Canada @ NZ$169 plus NZ$70 freight 6-10 days delivery. They looked the same but the chinese one had thicker but less laminations and not packed as tight. Canadian one had a 12month warranty so that sold me. Watch this space.
PS thanks for the replies [emoji106] Not alot going on here bike wise.
PS thanks for the replies [emoji106] Not alot going on here bike wise.
M2H
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Re: Chinese Regulator/rectifier
Well the new stator arrived from Canada yesterday. Got it all installed ok and re-routed the wires, didn't need to remove the connectors as i thought, it was real easy. [emoji2] Then i thought YIPPEE plug and play NOT. Motor turns over just fine, new battery 14 v static on full charge, 12.6v with lights on. Now i got no spark at all Out with the meter (analog, looks just like the Suzuki pocket meter!!) Traced all the new wiring, continuity thru the pick ups to the ignitor connectors. Ok so far. Checked wires to coils all good. Started testing on the ignitor as per the manual. The readings were all to hell but expected some variation, not the massive ones i found tho. Soooo, how does a system work perfectly then suddenly not?????? Only thing i've done is replace the stator????????? WTF ??????? I find it hard to believe the CDI has shit itself overnight but it's looking suspicious. What y'all think?
M2H
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Re: Chinese Regulator/rectifier
Just a thought, after you did all this...did you plug it back in?
Folks often forget to plug in the cdi when they put the seat back on.
Folks often forget to plug in the cdi when they put the seat back on.
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Re: Chinese Regulator/rectifier
Yep Nav I never put the seat on til its running. Period [emoji2]navigator wrote:Just a thought, after you did all this...did you plug it back in?
Folks often forget to plug in the cdi when they put the seat back on.
M2H
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Re: Chinese Regulator/rectifier
Not as bad as forgetting to put the 2 plugs back after adjusting the valves.navigator wrote:Just a thought, after you did all this...did you plug it back in?
Folks often forget to plug in the cdi when they put the seat back on.
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Grow old disgracefully young man.