Stalling When Coming to a Stop
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- Practicing Bicycling
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Stalling When Coming to a Stop
While out on a ride around the city today my bike did something I haven't experienced before. When I was coming to a stop light I was in 2nd or 3rd gear and I pulled in the clutch and was coasting to a stop the bike stalled. Then shortly after I came to a red light and same thing it stalled again while I was coasting to a stop and putting it in neutral. I thought it might of been because the idle was too low so I turned it up slightly but but then it happened again. Anyone know what could be causing this?
- BRONX INTRUDER
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Re: Stalling When Coming to a Stop
When was like time you had a tune up?
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Re: Stalling When Coming to a Stop
I haven't yet, I just bought this intruder earlier this summer. The only thing I've done was replaced air filters, rear brake pads and tires.BRONX INTRUDER wrote:When was like time you had a tune up?
What do you suggest it might need? It seems to run fine, I noticed a bit of noise from the motor when you accelerate, hard to explain but its like a metally sound but I figured it was just the lifters and such doing their job. It currently has 44 thousand miles on it.
- BRONX INTRUDER
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Re: Stalling When Coming to a Stop
Uhm. Maybe fresh plugs, oil and oil filter?
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Re: Stalling When Coming to a Stop
Oh yes, I forgot to mention I changed the oil and filter as well, its got about 1500 miles on it since the change. The plugs looked good, when I pulled them.BRONX INTRUDER wrote:Uhm. Maybe fresh plugs, oil and oil filter?
- BRONX INTRUDER
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Re: Stalling When Coming to a Stop
Made aure battery and ground connections are tight?
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Re: Stalling When Coming to a Stop
Yeah one of the first things I did, they were actually a bit loose when I got it.BRONX INTRUDER wrote:Made aure battery and ground connections are tight?
I took a couple videos of it idling and whatnot, I'll post it when its done uploading. I didn't notice until now that when I turn my choke on it sputters and almost stalls then idles really high. It's never done that before.
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Re: Stalling When Coming to a Stop
Have a look and tell me what you think,
- Fred
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Re: Stalling When Coming to a Stop
Its not a strong idle. Try adjusting your idle mix screws.
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Re: Stalling When Coming to a Stop
Hey fellas, I sent a friend of mine (who works on bikes, mostly harleys) that video i posted above^ and he said it sounds a little noisy and it could be that the cam chain tension needs to be adjusted. Has anyone else experienced this, or adjusted the cam chain tension on a 1400?
He also mentioned putting 20-50 oil in it next oil change. Let me know what you guys think
He also mentioned putting 20-50 oil in it next oil change. Let me know what you guys think
- Herb
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Re: Stalling When Coming to a Stop
I don't hear anything that I would consider excessive noise.
The idle seems a little slow. Have you put a tach on it?
The cam chains on the 1400 are automatically adjusted, no way to adjust them by a maintainer.
I tried the 20-50 oil, made the hydraulic lash adjusters noisy until the bike warmed up, they were especially noisy on colder days.
The idle seems a little slow. Have you put a tach on it?
The cam chains on the 1400 are automatically adjusted, no way to adjust them by a maintainer.
I tried the 20-50 oil, made the hydraulic lash adjusters noisy until the bike warmed up, they were especially noisy on colder days.
I can't seem to win the lottery. I think I have used up all of my good luck riding motorcycles.
- RollingBlunder
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Re: Stalling When Coming to a Stop
Sounds like a problem I had a couple of years ago. The bike ran and idled fine but whenever the throttle was closed when coming to a stop, the bike stalled. It would start right up again and run fine.
I fixed it by removing and cleaning the Coast Valve plungers on each or the carbs (#34 in the diagram). They were gummed up and sticking. They can be accessed without removing the carbs. I also added small washers to each to give the springs a little more tension. Look for the small plate with 3 screws -you'll find the coast valve diaphragm and plunger under there.
http://www.suzukipartshouse.com/oempart ... etor-front
BTW, this year the bike was hard to start. I added several ounces of Textron to the fuel tank, ran the bike enough to get it into the carbs. Let it sit for a few days and Voila! Good as new!
I fixed it by removing and cleaning the Coast Valve plungers on each or the carbs (#34 in the diagram). They were gummed up and sticking. They can be accessed without removing the carbs. I also added small washers to each to give the springs a little more tension. Look for the small plate with 3 screws -you'll find the coast valve diaphragm and plunger under there.
http://www.suzukipartshouse.com/oempart ... etor-front
BTW, this year the bike was hard to start. I added several ounces of Textron to the fuel tank, ran the bike enough to get it into the carbs. Let it sit for a few days and Voila! Good as new!
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Re: Stalling When Coming to a Stop
I thought the idle was good, but now that I turned it up a bit it hasn't stalled when I'm riding and I pull the clutch in. I don't have a tach, where can you get them and are they difficult to install?Herb wrote:I don't hear anything that I would consider excessive noise.
The idle seems a little slow. Have you put a tach on it?
The cam chains on the 1400 are automatically adjusted, no way to adjust them by a maintainer.
I tried the 20-50 oil, made the hydraulic lash adjusters noisy until the bike warmed up, they were especially noisy on colder days.
I got 5 Liters of 20w-50 oil yesterday. I think I might try it out and see if it makes the engine a bit more quiet. Last time I changed the oil I put regular 10w-40 motor oil you'd put in a car. It seems kinda dirty and thinned out already, won't be doing that again.
- Herb
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Re: Stalling When Coming to a Stop
I put over 154,000 miles on my first 1400 and over 180,000 miles on my 2nd, using 10-40 car oil. Never had an oil related issue except the 1 time I used 20-50 and the lifters clattered like mad until the oil warmed up.RapidRoy wrote:I thought the idle was good, but now that I turned it up a bit it hasn't stalled when I'm riding and I pull the clutch in. I don't have a tach, where can you get them and are they difficult to install?Herb wrote:I don't hear anything that I would consider excessive noise.
The idle seems a little slow. Have you put a tach on it?
The cam chains on the 1400 are automatically adjusted, no way to adjust them by a maintainer.
I tried the 20-50 oil, made the hydraulic lash adjusters noisy until the bike warmed up, they were especially noisy on colder days.
I got 5 Liters of 20w-50 oil yesterday. I think I might try it out and see if it makes the engine a bit more quiet. Last time I changed the oil I put regular 10w-40 motor oil you'd put in a car. It seems kinda dirty and thinned out already, won't be doing that again.
I can't seem to win the lottery. I think I have used up all of my good luck riding motorcycles.
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Re: Stalling When Coming to a Stop
Alright! Perhaps I will exchange it for 10-40.Herb wrote:I put over 154,000 miles on my first 1400 and over 180,000 miles on my 2nd, using 10-40 car oil. Never had an oil related issue except the 1 time I used 20-50 and the lifters clattered like mad until the oil warmed up.RapidRoy wrote:I thought the idle was good, but now that I turned it up a bit it hasn't stalled when I'm riding and I pull the clutch in. I don't have a tach, where can you get them and are they difficult to install?Herb wrote:I don't hear anything that I would consider excessive noise.
The idle seems a little slow. Have you put a tach on it?
The cam chains on the 1400 are automatically adjusted, no way to adjust them by a maintainer.
I tried the 20-50 oil, made the hydraulic lash adjusters noisy until the bike warmed up, they were especially noisy on colder days.
I got 5 Liters of 20w-50 oil yesterday. I think I might try it out and see if it makes the engine a bit more quiet. Last time I changed the oil I put regular 10w-40 motor oil you'd put in a car. It seems kinda dirty and thinned out already, won't be doing that again.
- Herb
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Re: Stalling When Coming to a Stop
I have a small engine tach that only has 1 wire that you wrap around a plug wire. I have had it on for a couple of years now and it works great. It also tracks the engine operating hours. It can be permanetly installed or can be used only for maintenence.
Mine is a little cheaper than this one but works the same way.
Mine is a little cheaper than this one but works the same way.
I can't seem to win the lottery. I think I have used up all of my good luck riding motorcycles.
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Re: Stalling When Coming to a Stop
Any way you could do a small write up for me? I am experienced enough to access the plungers, honestly if you could explain to me more about the washers and springs and such e.g. diameter of washers you used, did you Bond them to the spring or leave them free, and how exactly does the heavier resistance help? JW as a learning experience.RollingBlunder wrote:Sounds like a problem I had a couple of years ago. The bike ran and idled fine but whenever the throttle was closed when coming to a stop, the bike stalled. It would start right up again and run fine.
I fixed it by removing and cleaning the Coast Valve plungers on each or the carbs (#34 in the diagram). They were gummed up and sticking. They can be accessed without removing the carbs. I also added small washers to each to give the springs a little more tension. Look for the small plate with 3 screws -you'll find the coast valve diaphragm and plunger under there.
http://www.suzukipartshouse.com/oempart ... etor-front
BTW, this year the bike was hard to start. I added several ounces of Textron to the fuel tank, ran the bike enough to get it into the carbs. Let it sit for a few days and Voila! Good as new!
- RollingBlunder
- Tricycles are Cool
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Re: Stalling When Coming to a Stop
Adding a washer to increase spring tension was suggested years ago on the old Intruder Alert forum. I did it as a preventive measure. I guess it helps prevent binding due to gunk buildup.Any way you could do a small write up for me? I am experienced enough to access the plungers, honestly if you could explain to me more about the washers and springs and such e.g. diameter of washers you used, did you Bond them to the spring or leave them free, and how exactly does the heavier resistance help? JW as a learning experience.
I’m doing this from memory; it’s been a few years since I was in there.
To clean the coast valve plungers, shut off the fuel and remove the seat & fuel tank. Next you need to locate and remove the coast valve cover plate on each carb. It’s a round plate with tabs for 3 screws. The screws may be very tight. Use a good screwdriver tip, you don’t want to bugger them up! You may have to alternate CCW, CW,CCW, CW torque to break them loose.
Once the plate is off remove the spring and diaphragm/plunger. Gas probably comes out till the bowls empty, I don’t recall. Clean the plunger & the tunnel it is supposed to slide in with carb cleaner. It should slide in and out freely. It will be obvious where to add the washers if you choose to do that. The thickness isn’t that critical. No need to use cement or anything exotic like that. Then reassemble. It’s really simple. Getting those screws out may be the toughest part.
- Fred
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Re: Stalling When Coming to a Stop
Strange how these exploded views dont show air jets.
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Re: Stalling When Coming to a Stop
Define "air jet"Fred wrote:Strange how these exploded views dont show air jets.